CRV engine. It is the same basic block casting as the B18A/B with a different cylinder design and an 84mm bore for a total 2.0L displacement. It uses the basic PR4 head, identical to the B18A/B casting. It uses a strange tall intake manifold, but a B18A/B manifold is a bolt-on replacement that will fit under the hood of our cars.

They are sold in longblock form only, due to the layout of the CRV transmission. Average pricing is around $850.

A B20B/Z can be replicated by resleeving and boring a B18A/B out to 84mm.

 

i have a 91 crx si...the clutch or syncro or something is gone...i'm looking at a $400 minimum fix. i am grinding really bad when shifting into 2nd and 3rd. it also grinds in reverse. i don't want to fix it. i'd rather just spend that money towards a swap. so you recommend the crv motor (b20) with what tranny? what ecu? thanks. i want to autox, drag and street race this thing at a reasonable cost. i don't want to justify spending $500 for 1-2HP. if it's worth the money...i'll spend it, but i don't want to go overboard. dollar for dollar...what's ideal? thanks a lot for your help in this. btw...what does the /z mean in b20b/z

any other recommendations? thanks guys.

 

B20B/Z = B20B or B20Z.

You can replace your whole stock transaxle and clutch for less then $400 if you do it yourself.

If it where up to me, I would run a B20B/Z with a 92-93 GS-R YS1 transaxle and 90-91 PR4 ECU. 90-91 B18A intake manfold. P73 pistons would also be a nice.

 

i'd make sure an LSD is in the YS1 tranny as a crvtec has lots of torque to break loose those front wheels at lower speeds

 

i'm sorrie about my lack of engine knowledge...
b20b bottom end with a b20z head? is that it? with a 92-93 ys1 lsd tranny and a 90-91 pr4 ecu (programmed by anyone or leave it?) and a 90-91 b18a intake.
what am looking at as far as price for all of that? i'll do it if it's in my budget. in that budget, is that the best that i'll be able to do? thanks a lot for all of your help.

 

I'm just talking about a normal B20B, no VTEC head swaps, but that still holds very true. Unfortunately, that transaxle never came with an LSD so one would have to be added. If only the G2 GS-R had a stock LSD. B20B or B20Z, the complete engine. Take your pick, but the JDM B20B and USDM B20Z have a higher stock compression ratio then the USDM B20B. The heads are identical. I just say "B18A/B" and "B20B/Z" to save the time of typing out B18A, B18B, B20B, and B20Z. That transaxle will rape you in excess of $500 if you can find one (it must be from a 92-93 GS-R, all 90-93's were marked YS1,) plus $400some for an aftermarket LSD. If you want to sacrifice the YS1's first gear, most B16A transaxles are geared pretty much the same and cost a lot less. A standard B16A transaxle runs around $200ish, and one wth a stock LSD is usually a couple hundred more.

The ECU will run around $50-100, do not chip it! A complete intake manifold (with throttle body, injectors, fuel rail, sensors) will run around $100.

You will still need mounts, a shift linkage, axles, an OBD-0 distributor from a 90-91 Integra, and a few other bits and peices. Keep a spare $200 at least for things that go wrong and need to be replaced.

 

Kai...what is your opinion on an h22a in the crx if i can get it in there? it doesn't seem to be a whole lot different than the b20b/z in weight and HP, both in favor of the h22a. i called my mechanic today and he said that if i got all of the parts together, he'd be willing to do all the cutting and relocating that is involved with an h22a install.

do you have AIM? i'd like to chat with you if you get a chance. my AIM s/n is baehan427. i'm usually online later in the evening AZ time. thanks.

 

In my opinion, the H22A in a CRX would be a pure drag car. If you can squeeze it in, you still need to figure out how to make axles for it, how to convert your car to a hydrolic clutch system, and mount an Accord or Prelude cable shifter assembly.

Any B-series swap will be 10x easier then this, and you can do it yourself in your own driveway saving lots of money. Not to mention it weighs a lot less.

My AIM is Rotary80RX7. If you look at the bottom of anyone's post, you'll see a tab marked "Profile." Look in there, and it will usually give you the user's AIM name.

 

i am having problems getting an engine swap to run.... please help.... thread is ..... crx engine swap gone wrong.....

 

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