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Old Aug 9, 2006 | 07:49 PM
  #121  
blackTEG99's Avatar
blackTEG99
slow gsr
 
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From: t-roy OH
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stupid question, im about to buy a full exhaust, and i was wondering if a full 3 inch cat back would be to big for my motor, will i have enough back pressure? or should i run 2.5... right now i have a skunk2 I/M,dc 421 2 piece header, aem full ram..help please
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Old Aug 9, 2006 | 07:53 PM
  #122  
sherwood's Avatar
sherwood
I missed Sean
 
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From: Fairfield/Bridgeport CT
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Originally Posted by blackTEG99
stupid question, im about to buy a full exhaust, and i was wondering if a full 3 inch cat back would be to big for my motor, will i have enough back pressure? or should i run 2.5... right now i have a skunk2 I/M,dc 421 2 piece header, aem full ram..help please
there wouldn't be a point to running anything more than 2.5
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Old Aug 9, 2006 | 07:56 PM
  #123  
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blackTEG99
slow gsr
 
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From: t-roy OH
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thats what i figured..3 inch is way big, i was just offered a deal on it for cheap and its a nice exhaust, but i think i'll just order the skunk2 or greddy
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Old Aug 9, 2006 | 08:02 PM
  #124  
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From: The Left Lane
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Originally Posted by blackTEG99
stupid question, im about to buy a full exhaust, and i was wondering if a full 3 inch cat back would be to big for my motor, will i have enough back pressure? or should i run 2.5... right now i have a skunk2 I/M,dc 421 2 piece header, aem full ram..help please
A 3" would be too big given your current mods.

Ideally, you'd want to maintaining the same diameter as the output from your header through the cat to the muffler outlet.

So if the DC header terminates at about 60mm, a 2.5" mandrel-bent setup would work nicely.

If you go custom built, I'd recommend the longest perforated-core resonator that will fit between the cat and the point at which you're forced to turn right and go around the petrol tank.

And unless you want to be on a first-name basis with every law enforcement officer in your city, definitely stay away from the canister-style or N1-style mufflers.

Welcome to the board. :cheers:
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Old Aug 9, 2006 | 08:08 PM
  #125  
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blackTEG99
slow gsr
 
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From: t-roy OH
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well the law enforcement thing, thats always been a problem since i had my crx with ls/ vtec turbo swap, they didnt like that 3 inch to well. there already catching on to my new car, but yea im just gonna go for the skunk 2 thanks for the help
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Old Aug 10, 2006 | 07:49 AM
  #126  
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blackTEG99
slow gsr
 
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From: t-roy OH
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i just got my front lip in the mail (for my 99 gsr) i put it on the bumper to test fit it, it fits great, but there's these 4 silver S shaped brackets and i have no clue where they go, let me know where they go if anyone knos
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Old Aug 10, 2006 | 08:38 AM
  #127  
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From: The Left Lane
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Originally Posted by Schwa
On the contrary Dave, I just made a thread about this and there seems to be no harm in removing the heat shield. Since it is from under the car, I am assuming this is the heat shield around the catalytic converter. If that is indeed the case, then the heat shield is there to keep the cat hot so that the reactions taking place inside it take place more efficiently. Removing it at worst would harm your emissions.

Tack welding it would only be a temporary fix, when you consider that the heat shield is rattling because it is corroding. It can (and eventually will) just corrode more in spite of the welds and just start rattling again.

I would suggest taking it off and just be careful if you need to park in tall grass that it doesn't light the grass on fire.
I try to keep debates out of this... but I only suggested tack welding assuming that the original weld had failed.

Obviously, if the heat shield is rotting away and you can't find a viable surface to weld, replacing or removing the heat shield would be an optimal solution.

As you noted, heat is a critical part of maintaining catalyst efficiency. So, I would not remove the heat shield on a pollution-controlled car, particularly in the Soviet Republic of California.. :run:

Who knows what kind of tech you'll encounter at your next smog check? IMO, it would be a waste to fail the visual inspection simply because your heat shield is missing.

Moving on... :crazyr:
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Old Aug 19, 2006 | 07:12 AM
  #128  
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BMSMMI
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From: DeSoto, Texas
Default re.1986/88 Valve guide seals

I purchased a cyl. head gasket set for renovations to that of my 86 Integra only now I will adapt a 88 cyl. head. My question is, will the older-type seals function to standard? or shall I procure the newer-type seals. The Integra is basic stock and will be driven daily and mostly on the freeway. I appreciate any information on the subject, thanx.
BMSMMI
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Old Aug 20, 2006 | 01:40 PM
  #129  
blackTEG99's Avatar
blackTEG99
slow gsr
 
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From: t-roy OH
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in need of some help. I just got my new coil overs in, and I am starting to take the old setup off, except for i ran into a problem, on the back, the bolt that holds the strut fork to the swingarm , the head broke off, i tried to twist it out from the other side but i broke 2 ratchets already, and i cant pound it out, anyone have any suggestions.?
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Old Aug 22, 2006 | 09:07 AM
  #130  
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AcuRa_Man
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Quick Question? My Turn signals on my Integra (95 LS) aren't working. I'm not getting no response or nothing when I flip the turn lever. I checked the fuse box to see if it was a faulty fuse but there's no fuse for the turn signals. Any idea on what's wrong with it?
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