yeah, I've started to auto-x with my Accord, and it's going to be a while before I do suspension upgrades, so between now and then, I can get a good feel of the car in it's stock form. Next time I change the brake fluid, I would definitely get SS lines.

Also, I have rear drums, and I heard they are more sensitive to brake fade? Again, I'm a novice, and I can't notice these things until I gain more experience. Sometime in the future, I guess I can get better fluid, SS lines, and possibly a rear disc conversion.

How would the stock rotors react with aftermarket pads? Would there be a risk of warping the rotors?

 

Uhh no risk of warping them, if you break them in correctly, sure the rotors will last less because performance pads are supose to be all metalic which will stop faster and of course wear the rotor faster too. As long as you break them in properly it should be fine, because if you dont then it will wear unevenly and cause them warp.

 

Sigo, go with this setup for your car: Brembo blank rotors or Brembo Sport slotted rotors. Why? They're supposed to have higher quality than others and I mentioned Brembo Sport because they're a Brembo's in-house aftermarket OEM-size replacement rotor brand. With those and Hawk HPS pads, your car will stop in no time. Fresh brake fluid works well and unless if you need to do multiple stops in short amount of time, the Honda brake fluid won't boil and give you bad stopping. After all, it's the same fluid that's used in the Integra Type R and NSX as well. ;-)

Go with a good pad setup, which are Hawk HPS, AEM, and Axxis Ultimates. Don't go with Axxis Metal Masters unless if you like the noise of semi-metallic pads. These days people should switch to ceramic if possible. Ceramic pads are getting better and better.

 

No, I mean Autobahn. I'm a US Army guy over here in Germany. The wife drives a US spec 98 Accord Ex 4cyl. It runs 120mph all day long.

I drive a euro spec 1993 Accord 2.0i ES

It'll run up to 210kph before I hit the wall. In the last 4 months I've put 25,000km on it...and need to do some maintenence on this one as well.

I'm getting real close to dropping the 5g's for a downpayment on a Pilot for the wife. Unfortunately though, my neighbors came home with one and paid $35(almost $36k) for theirs and apparently the dealers don't deal here.

Shit, I'm looking on Edmunds at their true value for the Pilot and it runs $32k in their book. Not a penny more. So is it really a wise decision (gas prices & close proximity & parking crunch) to buy a pilot before I return to the US? The Tax benefit is only about $1500-2000.

Side note: My play car is a 1991 GMC Syclone.

 

Oh btw...not to disapoint anyone...but I called summit up and went ahead and got the powerstop drilled rotors with VGX pads.

They worked well on my Typhoon before and I'll flush and replace w/ Dot4.

Any break in suggestions?

 

good luck and let is know how they work out, remember to break those rotors in, usaully i try and do 500 miles and very easy breaking...but somehow i think that will be hard doing 120 mph.

 

Well to direct attention towards proper break in techniques...especially after reading the other topic in this area on brakes...

I had read somewhere before that the best way to break in brakes is to run up to conduct a 30 - 0 stop then do a 50 - 0 stop and then do a 90 - 0 stop.

Theoretically this is how to break the brakes in. Any thoughts.

 

i've never haerd of that, basically waht you want is for the rotors and pads to be very smooth, when they are new they are rough, so as you drive they smooth out, but if you are very hard on them before they are broken in (not smooth) you will wear them out unevenly causing it to cool off differently and warping. but i've never heard of the above trick, but do as you like.

 

you want to do a series of slowdowns, not stops. never fully stop on the break in:

40-5mph 5-10 times. braking at moderate pressure (hard enough to be significant, but not hard enough to induce lock-up/abs)

70-5mph 5-10 times, same braking style as above but allowing a brief moment at cruising speed to let rotors/pads cool slightly before repeats.

and if you want to do the 100-5mph, you could, just allow longer time to cool.

hard part is finding a stretch of deserted country road that won't make you a danger to other drivers on the road.

 

I think I can find the stretch of road to do that on. I'll heed your advice and not stop fully.