Autobahn Driven Accord / Needs Brakes
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Joined: Jul 2002
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From: Mannheim, GE
Autobahn Driven Accord / Needs Brakes
In the last year I've destroyed my front rotors (again). Need some stopping power that's resistant to fade.
Car is a 100mph Autobahn Daily Driven car (wife's) and need peace of mind for parts selection but at the same time I've earmarked Apr 04 as the target date for our new Honda Pilot.
With that said don't want to spend too much money for a caliper replacement kit.
Just want to focus on some crossdrilled with metallic pad replacement kit. Options?
side note: Thought I had the parts on order through my normal parts guy but he proved unreliable for Honda Aftermarket (great for the Syclone shit) so...need to find a place to buy and ship (summit?) from the phone / interweb.
Thanks in Advance.
Car is a 100mph Autobahn Daily Driven car (wife's) and need peace of mind for parts selection but at the same time I've earmarked Apr 04 as the target date for our new Honda Pilot.
With that said don't want to spend too much money for a caliper replacement kit.
Just want to focus on some crossdrilled with metallic pad replacement kit. Options?
side note: Thought I had the parts on order through my normal parts guy but he proved unreliable for Honda Aftermarket (great for the Syclone shit) so...need to find a place to buy and ship (summit?) from the phone / interweb.
Thanks in Advance.
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Joined: Jul 2002
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From: Mannheim, GE
figures after I initially post that I find another topic on this...
https://www.honda-acura.net/forums/s...threadid=97258
Don't know about applicability though.
https://www.honda-acura.net/forums/s...threadid=97258
Don't know about applicability though.
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Joined: May 2002
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From: Santa Monica, CA
if you're getting rid of the car soon (sounds like you're replacing it with the pilot), then i doubt it's worth doing anything to the brakes now.
with better brake pads and dot4 brake fluids, you should feel some improvement. as to fade... w/o spending some serious buckage, you're on your own on that one.
with better brake pads and dot4 brake fluids, you should feel some improvement. as to fade... w/o spending some serious buckage, you're on your own on that one.
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From: Mannheim, GE
Originally posted by usc
if you're getting rid of the car soon (sounds like you're replacing it with the pilot), then i doubt it's worth doing anything to the brakes now.
with better brake pads and dot4 brake fluids, you should feel some improvement. as to fade... w/o spending some serious buckage, you're on your own on that one.
if you're getting rid of the car soon (sounds like you're replacing it with the pilot), then i doubt it's worth doing anything to the brakes now.
with better brake pads and dot4 brake fluids, you should feel some improvement. as to fade... w/o spending some serious buckage, you're on your own on that one.
Understand also that the V6 over the 4cyl had bigger rotors (weight in the front end?) but the calipers were the same?
So am I looking for PowerStop Rotors for a V6 Accord same year or am I looking for pads / rotors from a manufactuar like AEM in a package for dummies?
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From: Santa Monica, CA
i don't have the specifications for the v6 rotors (whether they're thicker/bigger). if they are bigger/thicker, chances are you'll have to also get the v6 brake calipers to make everything work.
there's a couple of possibilities going on here in your scenario:
1) you're pushing the brakes to the limit but you're not allowing it to cool off properly, thus you rotors become glazed by pad deposit.
2) you're pushing the brakes BEYOND its limit thus experience fade.
if you're having fade, then it may be wise to invest in a bigger rotor kit (not so much because of x-drilling or slotting, but because bigger rotors are more resistant to temperature change.
if you're just warping rotors, then you're not allowing the rotors to cool properly. for instance, if you brake from 100-0, and keep the foot on the brakes (especially because if the car is an automatic), then the rotors are being cooled unevening when the car isn't moving. the part of the rotor touching the brake pads will cool at a different rate than the rest of the rotors exposed to just air. you end up glazing the rotor and leaving imprint/deposits of the pad.
the cure to this obviously is having brake setups like Porsches and Ferraris (whose rotors are huge, directionally vaned for cooling), designed for high speed stops.
there's a couple of possibilities going on here in your scenario:
1) you're pushing the brakes to the limit but you're not allowing it to cool off properly, thus you rotors become glazed by pad deposit.
2) you're pushing the brakes BEYOND its limit thus experience fade.
if you're having fade, then it may be wise to invest in a bigger rotor kit (not so much because of x-drilling or slotting, but because bigger rotors are more resistant to temperature change.
if you're just warping rotors, then you're not allowing the rotors to cool properly. for instance, if you brake from 100-0, and keep the foot on the brakes (especially because if the car is an automatic), then the rotors are being cooled unevening when the car isn't moving. the part of the rotor touching the brake pads will cool at a different rate than the rest of the rotors exposed to just air. you end up glazing the rotor and leaving imprint/deposits of the pad.
the cure to this obviously is having brake setups like Porsches and Ferraris (whose rotors are huge, directionally vaned for cooling), designed for high speed stops.
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a good synthetic brake fluid, and smarter driving should save you the expense until getting a new car. If you want cross drilled, grab you some regular ol' brembo rotors. If you want slotted or cross-drilled that's up to you. Either way the amount of heat disipated by them will be very little for them to make much difference. The best idea would be to run some kind of brake ducting system to cool the calipers. Good luck
- Nathan
- Nathan
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From: Mannheim, GE
Originally posted by usc
if you're just warping rotors, then you're not allowing the rotors to cool properly. for instance, if you brake from 100-0, and keep the foot on the brakes (especially because if the car is an automatic), then the rotors are being cooled unevening when the car isn't moving. the part of the rotor touching the brake pads will cool at a different rate than the rest of the rotors exposed to just air. you end up glazing the rotor and leaving imprint/deposits of the pad.
if you're just warping rotors, then you're not allowing the rotors to cool properly. for instance, if you brake from 100-0, and keep the foot on the brakes (especially because if the car is an automatic), then the rotors are being cooled unevening when the car isn't moving. the part of the rotor touching the brake pads will cool at a different rate than the rest of the rotors exposed to just air. you end up glazing the rotor and leaving imprint/deposits of the pad.
I had heard that the V6 used slightly larger rotors but same calipers, rotors and thusly would be more efficient for high speed braking.
Gonna call summit here in a bit and see what they have to offer.
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Joined: Dec 2002
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From: cali, bay area
Yes the v6/wagon rotors are 11.2 inches and the stock accord are 10.2. You can do the swap, its a direct fit and you need the wagon calipers aswell, i just did mines 2 weeks ago and its very nice. Also try S/S lines that work great and are around 100 bucks. here are some pictures of other swaps and of my mines.
Accord vs V6/Wagon
Accord pad vs v6/wagon pads.
Accord vs V6/Wagon
Accord pad vs v6/wagon pads.