rotor replacement question!
I'm sick and tired of gettin' mah stock rotors machined because they are warped.
If I buy slotted rotors, how difficult would it be for me to do it myself?
If I buy slotted rotors, how difficult would it be for me to do it myself?
It's a self-done job, which isn't too hard, but the really hard part is getting the rotor off and you need that one device that you turn a screw and it pulls it off slowly off the hub. When you put your wheels back on, you should use a torque wrench to get them on right...but i don't know anybody but a couple friends that has a torque wrench at home.
Hey what are the benefits/downfalls of slotted vs. drilled rotors? I know they're both supposed to cool off faster, but which one's better?
Anybody using EBC brake pads or any factory replacements? I'd like to hear some reviews about brakedust and brake performance.
Hey what are the benefits/downfalls of slotted vs. drilled rotors? I know they're both supposed to cool off faster, but which one's better?
Anybody using EBC brake pads or any factory replacements? I'd like to hear some reviews about brakedust and brake performance.
I always reccomend slots.. .. most people buy crappy drilled rotors that are just that.. drilled.
A true 'cross drilled rotor' should be a cast rotor with holes... when you drill into a cooled/tempered piece of metal you're asking for cracks. This includes most brembos even.. they are not cast.
So anyway.. go for the slots.. on the street they will do you just fine.
Also get a GOOD BRAKE PAD.. I reccomend Performance Frictions R's. Most good autoparts stores carry them. If you cant them get raybestos.. stay away from those 'trick' pads.. they wear fast and leave major dust and are pretty worthless on the street IMO.
Far as getting the old rotor off.. since you dont care about it the BIG F'IN HAMMER gets it off just fine
If i remember right the torque is 75ft lbs. .. but check your helms manual. I reccomend replacing those 4 bolts as they have a tendency to wanna ROUND after a while.. whats 5 bucks of bolts?
A true 'cross drilled rotor' should be a cast rotor with holes... when you drill into a cooled/tempered piece of metal you're asking for cracks. This includes most brembos even.. they are not cast.
So anyway.. go for the slots.. on the street they will do you just fine.
Also get a GOOD BRAKE PAD.. I reccomend Performance Frictions R's. Most good autoparts stores carry them. If you cant them get raybestos.. stay away from those 'trick' pads.. they wear fast and leave major dust and are pretty worthless on the street IMO.
Far as getting the old rotor off.. since you dont care about it the BIG F'IN HAMMER gets it off just fine
If i remember right the torque is 75ft lbs. .. but check your helms manual. I reccomend replacing those 4 bolts as they have a tendency to wanna ROUND after a while.. whats 5 bucks of bolts?
The hardest part of the job was getting the rotor off. I don't know what your accords but on 6th gens, there are 2 screws in each rotor. You'll be better off if you use an impact screwdriver to get the screws off. I got some Powerslot rotors. I have always been weary to the structural integrity of x-drilled rotors. The advantage of these types of rotors are that they disperse heat and gases quicker than conventional rotors. As for pads, I use Axis Metalmaster pads because they were cheaper than Honda pads and IMO, experience less fade and last longer. Sorry for the long ass post. Hope this helps.
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OblivionLord
92+ Civic/EL & Del Sol
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Sep 17, 2007 01:32 AM



