Question about Distributor cap/Rotor replacement??
09-15-2007, 12:40 AM
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Question about Distributor cap/Rotor replacement??
Unless you have some mechanical default with your distributor cap and/or rotor then you shouldn't need to replace either. Their designed to have an understandable amount of wear while still allowing the most optimal transference of potential difference to the plug.
I realize that both parts are relatively inexpensive, but what reason would you follow the books recommended maintenance only because it tells you to change out the part? In order for the parts to show any recognizable signs of duress through engine performance, you would have to have a faulty part or mechanical issue which then worries me of other, more important, engine issues. I wonder how much you would allow your wallet to be raped simply because the dealer told you any procedure was recommended.
Any comments will be most appreciated. Thanks
I realize that both parts are relatively inexpensive, but what reason would you follow the books recommended maintenance only because it tells you to change out the part? In order for the parts to show any recognizable signs of duress through engine performance, you would have to have a faulty part or mechanical issue which then worries me of other, more important, engine issues. I wonder how much you would allow your wallet to be raped simply because the dealer told you any procedure was recommended.
Any comments will be most appreciated. Thanks
09-15-2007, 02:08 AM
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One reason is that corrosion, etc. can build up on both over time and and that actually puts more stress on the ignition coil and can even cause the alt. to work harder.
Even if they look clean it's still a good idea to replace them at some point if you know they have a lot of miles (more importantly, revs) on them.
It's similar to why you replace the plug wires if they're real old, even if they don't have cracks all over the insulation. There's a lot of "juice" flowing through that stuff.
My cap and rotor had burn/arching marks on them and lots of corrosion. Even after I cleaned up the corrosion I decided to get a new pair a while back and once they were on I noticed significantly less noise from my ailing, 1/2 dead alternator.
Even if they look clean it's still a good idea to replace them at some point if you know they have a lot of miles (more importantly, revs) on them.
It's similar to why you replace the plug wires if they're real old, even if they don't have cracks all over the insulation. There's a lot of "juice" flowing through that stuff.
My cap and rotor had burn/arching marks on them and lots of corrosion. Even after I cleaned up the corrosion I decided to get a new pair a while back and once they were on I noticed significantly less noise from my ailing, 1/2 dead alternator.
Last edited by A-series; 09-15-2007 at 02:13 AM.
09-15-2007, 10:42 AM
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Unless you've a dodgy cap or rotor, you shouldn't have this horrible corrosion to warrant the changing of either. Therefore you really don't need to go by the books recommendation until it starts to show. Is this correct?
On a side note... if the spark plug wires aren't cracked in any such ways and are old then, what is exactly could to hinder the electrical flow to the plugs?
On a side note... if the spark plug wires aren't cracked in any such ways and are old then, what is exactly could to hinder the electrical flow to the plugs?
Last edited by OblivionLord; 09-15-2007 at 10:50 AM.
09-17-2007, 01:32 AM
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Mine wasn't dodgy and there was white crap on the cap and rotor. Could be b/c it isn't completely sealed from the atmosphere (there's a "valve" if you look closely) or could've been the condition of other components that were installed in there before I got the car.
I know other people have had corrosion under there without cracks in the cap, etc. though, and not limited to civics or Hondas either.
As to the wires, over time the wire inside can break down and increase resistance. Good quality wires will last a very long time but unless you test them with an ohm meter (easy and relatively cheap but most don't) you don't really know you have properly functioning wires on all cylinders, which is why I'd recommend changing them if they're quite old.
Eventually the rubber insulation (newer cars may have HQ synthetic insulation so this is less of an issue) will crack and it's possible that before that even happens that the wire inside is creating more resistance than it's supposed to.
Either way they'll need replaced so if you look over them carefully and test them all then you'll know when they need replaced, otherwise it's not a bad idea to change them as preventative maintenance.
Just because there are plug wires widely available today that will virtually last forever(if taken proper care of), that doesn't mean the ones that come on one's car are of that same quality.
I know other people have had corrosion under there without cracks in the cap, etc. though, and not limited to civics or Hondas either.
As to the wires, over time the wire inside can break down and increase resistance. Good quality wires will last a very long time but unless you test them with an ohm meter (easy and relatively cheap but most don't) you don't really know you have properly functioning wires on all cylinders, which is why I'd recommend changing them if they're quite old.
Eventually the rubber insulation (newer cars may have HQ synthetic insulation so this is less of an issue) will crack and it's possible that before that even happens that the wire inside is creating more resistance than it's supposed to.
Either way they'll need replaced so if you look over them carefully and test them all then you'll know when they need replaced, otherwise it's not a bad idea to change them as preventative maintenance.
Just because there are plug wires widely available today that will virtually last forever(if taken proper care of), that doesn't mean the ones that come on one's car are of that same quality.
Last edited by A-series; 09-17-2007 at 01:35 AM.