ouch well at least you found the problem before it got worse. yes, please use the "flower" setting on your camera (macro) or use a tripod or something and use the timer hahaha pleeease. i'll send u more air fresheners if u do

 

once again i did use the macro function, Its only a 70 dollar hp camera.

 

Here's my 18¢... 2¢ for each bearing just in case you need it with inflation and all. I think they're all bad... which isn't a problem really because you're going to order a whole new set anyway. None of them look good to me for only having so few miles on them. My GSX bearings looked brand new at 123k miles when I rebuilt it. If they looked anything like this, I probably would have done a 6-bolt swap.

Rule of thumbnail: if you can feel a difference in the texture with a fingernail, it's fokked. That goes for bearings and journals, camshafts, crankshafts, etc. Perhaps the bearings were the wrong size? Even if you got the right bearings according to the parts they support, the hole the bearings fit in may not be in spec. Tony can attest to this. I'm not saying that you have the same problem as Tony had, but the only way to NAIL (there I go with nails again) the bearing size with 100% accuracy is to do a dry assembly of the rods and rod caps, the main caps, etc... and leave the crankshaft out of the mix. Torque to spec with your bearings installed, and measure every bearing with a bore gauge. Then Mic the crank's main and rod journals and do the subtraction.

Plastigauge doesn't work.

A micrometer itself doesn't work.

What's written on the box can not be trusted just like - the cake is a lie.

...also, the tolerances for a stock OEM motor are quite different (looser) than the tolerances for a race motor. What worked for my 7-bolt, and what worked for Tony... won't work for everyone else. It might work for your application because you have lots of the same crazy parts that we do, but I wouldn't recommend anyone else use the specs we used for a standard rebuild... Bearings always need to be spec'd out with extreme caution on a race motor.

Patrick, I'm so glad you caught this before it got super-expensive. You ought to be able to clean it out and get by with a new set of bearings unless the block is somehow warped. OEM Honda blocks rarely ever see that kind of problem, so once your clearances are right, it should be tough as nails.

More about nails... check out where I was last night... PICS!

 

My bearing set will get here tmrw, and my bore gauge will be here on monday so i will break it all done and measure it all up. I bet that NIN concert was crazy.

 

Hey, great job on the bore gauge! Sweet. Now u don't have to borrow 1. ...& now I know where I can. :woot:

It sorta sux that you have to break it down and reassemble it without the crank, measure it, tear it down & then do it all again... but it's the only way to do it right. Have you decided on what you're shooting for clearance-wise?

PS: Yes, the concert was flippin' awesome!!! The "Lights In The Sky" tour has to be witnessed because they really released a lot of music lately, and the light show is simply too awesome for me to ever describe. This show was twice as long as their show for Year Zero last year. Trent just released The Slip in May, and just 2 months before he released an instrumental quadrilogy called Ghosts (the first album of which you can download for free from this website).

Edit: Oh yeah... One more...

 

im going to with .0015˝ It is right in the middle of the OEM spec of .0013"-.0017"

 

Your definatly in the right direction now. Only other thing i wasnna recommend that you check is once you get all those bearings in & tightened down to spec without the crank in there, lay a straight edge across them & pull out your feeler gauges to make sure that alignment is correct between the mains.

Then just as a final check, after you get the crank in there, without any rods connected, see if it rotates freely or if it's hard to rotate by hand. If tehre is any resistance at all, your alignent between mains is off.

 

When i put it together the first time the crank spun freely with not drag on it. I'll barrow a straight edge from work.

 

i really wish we knew what your clearances were from the last assembly!

 

Yeah your telling me, i will take you advice and get a notebook for everything now.