but I only got 35mpg :hs:

 

you just wait, i'm gonna squeeze 34ish outa my 2.0 b-series next summer!

 

Hopefully it will be that way for mine. I adjust the idle on the ecu and so far it was helped, haven't stalled out. I think i finally figured out the O2 problem also.

 

:chuckles:


I hope you can

 

When I broke my motor in I did 200 miles no boost period, after that the turbo was broken in. I did another 800 with maybe 2 psi max and never going past 3500 rpm. Oil changes were done at 200, 500, and then at 900 with synthetic before I took the 100 mile trip to get tuned. I figure if you put that much work and money into something your not going to ruin the break in by being impatiant. Patrick has been trying to accomplish this since ive known in back in highschool, would be a waste to be careless now.

 

WHOA! First off, turbo's need absolutly zero break in time.

If the motor was made from the materials that were used 50 years ago, i'd tell u to take it easy, but the fact of the matter is, materials and times have changed. There is a lot of documentation out there about this.

My personal break in on the most expencive shit that you could have:

Start-up, check for leaks, let it warm up, shut down let it cool.

Oil change

Start-up, warm up, run it hard and let it rev down to drag the oil off the cylinder walls.

Track Time.

My oil changes were:

0-miles
100 - miles
1000 - miles
every 2500 miles.

We have done this break-in on the last 5-6 motors that i've built and most of these are beaten on daily. Geo's LS just made a 12.9@104mph pass at the track with 8k on the build and only 10psi from a little .48/.57 t3/t4

Eric's car has like 20k on the built motor and runs extreamly strong.

Both of their builds are posted on this site.

 

Deadbolt, the company that produces my turbo, has very strict instructions listed on there website for the break in of there turbos. For them to charge 1600 bucks for a journal bearing 20g, and then to list detailed instructions, it wont hurt me not to be a jackass for 200 miles or so.

A quick google search will show numerous articles/arguments for the importance of proper engine break in. Cobb tuning, a huge player in the Subaru world and time attack race team, has strict insturctions for proper break in of an engine built by them. If you go to ANY motorcycle dealership around you and purchase a bike, they will give you break in procedures as well. IMHO there is far more proof that points to the benefits of breaking the engine in slowly than to rag on it.

My engine build ran upwards of 8 grand. I would rather drive like a grandma, and do oil chages in a set pattern then pay another 8 grand. Who knows, if I had ragged on it I could have only made 370whp on the dyno.

 

Here are some pics of the oil filter after the first 250 miles. I have already did the second oil change at 500, Im just a little late posting the pics. Every looked great, very few things of metal in the filter, and on the drain plug(magnetic)

As for drivabilty, i really need to get a wideband, This thing is running so pig rich, that up to about 3000 it bucks like a bronco, and when crusing it has slight bucks. I had to disable the O2 sensor because it was running like crap with it. I might have to make a trip donw to Jafros house and see if he can weld up this header for my( where the manifold and a pipe meet it is leaking and sounds like a Harley). And because of the leaks when it backfires i can feel and hear it in the engine bay. I have a few oil leaks i need to find and fix, One is on the timing belt side, and the other is on the trans side. So i have to pull the timing covers and drop the trans and see if i can find the leak.

 

dude, i forsee bearing failure.

pull the pan asap, check all bearings. There is copper in that first & last pic. better safe than sorry bro.

(making phone call now.. just to make sure u get this message in time.)

 

you are not ruining the break in. It isn't about being impatient. It's a different breakin method for a different time in technology just as tony noted.