Serious issuses..need some REAL tech advice..
Ok i'm goin to first break down my problems, and what not then go from there..
I'm not goin to state my last dynos cause thats neither here nor there, and i dont wish to use those to base off of..but i'll give some background info..
My setup
USDM 1999 B18c5 bottem end(completely stock)
1995 JDM B18C Head Fully built to the max as followed
Crower Full race valvetrain(springs/retainers)(intake and exhaust valves)
Crane Stage 2 Cams And LMA
Buddy club cam gears
AEM Short Air intake
Skunk2 Intake manifold w/ hondata gasket
Sparks Racing Header (4-1 , 2.5' colletor)
Apexi N1 2.5 Cat back, with Testpipe (2.5 in/out)
Hypertech grounding system
JDm b18c tranny with excedy stage 2 clutch
Tuned on crome by myself and a buddy
Now my problems..
First as my few dynos i'll say i've suppassed well over 190 whp on ctr cams on stock cam gears.. When i swapped the cams and left them on 0/0 i knew i was losing power on the car because in my maps when i was tuning, i was Taking away fuel, and yes i know i was losing power but the car didn't seem to perform any differently, i actually thought the car was stronger in some cases performed better in other races then i did before, now granted i got on a dynomatics which reads 15-20% lower then a dynojet, and its SAE corrected.. i only made 153whp and i htink some where around 120ish' 130ish torque, the CAR did NOT start to lose power until 8300ish rpms, the car does rev to 9400, now i'm pretty upset, and this has happened a few weeks ago.. since then i've started to street tune the car again adjusting the cam gears, i've only adjusted the intake +1 and the exhaust is still untouched, i went back to tune for that adjustment, and i had to add ALOT of fuel.. my injector duty cycle almost doubled what it was running and corrected alot of humps and also gave me a mean..MEAN idle lope.. however i'm just really upset by this i should be well over the 190ish range on any dyno with this build up.. the CR gives me 230 across the board and my comp ratio is roughly 11.4-11.5:1, i'm running a solid map, is there anything i should be looking at i mean basically i made STOCK GSR numbers, there's no dips in the maps neither smooth and str8 up but very weird any input on somethings i should change..should i go more up on the advanceing of the intake and start to mess with the exhaust or take it slow & steady..i mean to be honest, with the advancing of the intake the car feels faster and pulls harder in the low end, thats basically what advancing the intake does and it takes away alittle top end(i'm a high end lover) but any suggestions..?
I'm not goin to state my last dynos cause thats neither here nor there, and i dont wish to use those to base off of..but i'll give some background info..
My setup
USDM 1999 B18c5 bottem end(completely stock)
1995 JDM B18C Head Fully built to the max as followed
Crower Full race valvetrain(springs/retainers)(intake and exhaust valves)
Crane Stage 2 Cams And LMA
Buddy club cam gears
AEM Short Air intake
Skunk2 Intake manifold w/ hondata gasket
Sparks Racing Header (4-1 , 2.5' colletor)
Apexi N1 2.5 Cat back, with Testpipe (2.5 in/out)
Hypertech grounding system
JDm b18c tranny with excedy stage 2 clutch
Tuned on crome by myself and a buddy
Now my problems..
First as my few dynos i'll say i've suppassed well over 190 whp on ctr cams on stock cam gears.. When i swapped the cams and left them on 0/0 i knew i was losing power on the car because in my maps when i was tuning, i was Taking away fuel, and yes i know i was losing power but the car didn't seem to perform any differently, i actually thought the car was stronger in some cases performed better in other races then i did before, now granted i got on a dynomatics which reads 15-20% lower then a dynojet, and its SAE corrected.. i only made 153whp and i htink some where around 120ish' 130ish torque, the CAR did NOT start to lose power until 8300ish rpms, the car does rev to 9400, now i'm pretty upset, and this has happened a few weeks ago.. since then i've started to street tune the car again adjusting the cam gears, i've only adjusted the intake +1 and the exhaust is still untouched, i went back to tune for that adjustment, and i had to add ALOT of fuel.. my injector duty cycle almost doubled what it was running and corrected alot of humps and also gave me a mean..MEAN idle lope.. however i'm just really upset by this i should be well over the 190ish range on any dyno with this build up.. the CR gives me 230 across the board and my comp ratio is roughly 11.4-11.5:1, i'm running a solid map, is there anything i should be looking at i mean basically i made STOCK GSR numbers, there's no dips in the maps neither smooth and str8 up but very weird any input on somethings i should change..should i go more up on the advanceing of the intake and start to mess with the exhaust or take it slow & steady..i mean to be honest, with the advancing of the intake the car feels faster and pulls harder in the low end, thats basically what advancing the intake does and it takes away alittle top end(i'm a high end lover) but any suggestions..?
The only way to REALLY know what your cam gear adjustments do is to tune it on a dyno...not with the butt dyno. Compare the dyno charts, see where power is made and lost with each degree you change the timing. You also need to keep using the same dyno. If you switch from dyno to dyno, obviously you're going to get different readings. You need a solid baseline to start with and go from there, so you have a bearing on what's really going on. If you keep tuning and tuning and you don't make the same kind of power, ditch the cams.
__________________
2015 Ford Mustang GT Fastback - Ingot Silver - 6M - Performance Package - Gibson Catback, JLT CAI, FR 47lb injectors, BAMA E85 tune, Eibach Sportline, BMR wheel hop kit, UPR oil separator, Steeda shifter bushing/bracket
Team B.O.B.® - Ballaz on a Budget
2015 Ford Mustang GT Fastback - Ingot Silver - 6M - Performance Package - Gibson Catback, JLT CAI, FR 47lb injectors, BAMA E85 tune, Eibach Sportline, BMR wheel hop kit, UPR oil separator, Steeda shifter bushing/bracket
Team B.O.B.® - Ballaz on a Budget
Why are you revving to 9400 when you lose power at 8300 rpms? All you are doing is putting unnecessary wear on the bottom end (which is still stock and isn't meant to be revved that high).
Does the car feel that much less powerful?
Peak hp numbers don't mean shit. How is the overall powerband compared to previous dynos?
Does the car feel that much less powerful?
Peak hp numbers don't mean shit. How is the overall powerband compared to previous dynos?
it increases, just like others, its actually a smoother powerband, and i'm not reving it for the hell of it, if you'll ready what i said it stops making power at 8300 my power doesn't begin to fall off until around 8700ish and even by then i've only lost 1 hp until 9400, i just reved it that high to rev it..it seems to be making more power.. and no the car feels strong at some points..
Originally Posted by dubcac
The only way to REALLY know what your cam gear adjustments do is to tune it on a dyno...not with the butt dyno. Compare the dyno charts, see where power is made and lost with each degree you change the timing. You also need to keep using the same dyno. If you switch from dyno to dyno, obviously you're going to get different readings. You need a solid baseline to start with and go from there, so you have a bearing on what's really going on. If you keep tuning and tuning and you don't make the same kind of power, ditch the cams.
Well then you're going to have a wrong starting point to go from. You have measurement error between dynos, so you'll never really know how much power its making compared to the CTRs unless you swap them back in for a baseline. If you want the most out of your cams, you're gonna have to tune them on the real dyno, and not the butt dyno.
__________________
2015 Ford Mustang GT Fastback - Ingot Silver - 6M - Performance Package - Gibson Catback, JLT CAI, FR 47lb injectors, BAMA E85 tune, Eibach Sportline, BMR wheel hop kit, UPR oil separator, Steeda shifter bushing/bracket
Team B.O.B.® - Ballaz on a Budget
2015 Ford Mustang GT Fastback - Ingot Silver - 6M - Performance Package - Gibson Catback, JLT CAI, FR 47lb injectors, BAMA E85 tune, Eibach Sportline, BMR wheel hop kit, UPR oil separator, Steeda shifter bushing/bracket
Team B.O.B.® - Ballaz on a Budget
Originally Posted by dubcac
Well then you're going to have a wrong starting point to go from. You have measurement error between dynos, so you'll never really know how much power its making compared to the CTRs unless you swap them back in for a baseline. If you want the most out of your cams, you're gonna have to tune them on the real dyno, and not the butt dyno.
Originally Posted by Däs Schmoo
I agree. If you are looking at obtaining the best possible numbers from your setup, street tuning is not the way to go. You will need to mess around with your ignition timing on a dyno to see if you are picking anything up from advancing or retarding it at certain limp areas of the powerband. Fuel tuning is only looking at a small portion of power production.
Originally Posted by dubcac
Well then you're going to have a wrong starting point to go from. You have measurement error between dynos, so you'll never really know how much power its making compared to the CTRs unless you swap them back in for a baseline. If you want the most out of your cams, you're gonna have to tune them on the real dyno, and not the butt dyno.
Originally Posted by IntegraType-R
no duh.. been doing thi sfor years and street tuning to be honest, my street tunings are only 3hp off on the dyno..i know this information already i wasn't asking what i should do, i partically go to a dyno every two weeks to try something new on this car, i'm asking if there was something i was missing, i mean i'm not a idiot here.. i was asking opinions on different things to try..


