rugsr

well ive called around and no one sells the pulley holder, any other way to do this

Provocateur

If you can't get it off with an air ratchet or with a breaker bar while the car is in 5th gear and someone on the brakes, you can take it to a shop and have them loosen it and then retorque it enough to get you home.

rugsr

hmmmm so put the car in 5th and have someone hit the brakes? ill try this. i cant take it anywhere as the car is on 4 jack stands and apart. hopefully this works

Provocateur

Yes, it will prevent the crank pulley from spinning while trying to break it free. It worked for me both when I was breaking it free and retorquing it to spec.

Patman015

sometimes you have to ask yourself...

would it be worth it to do the timing belt by yourself? without and special tools, and the chance to funk things up? or maybe you can buy the special tools somewhere even tho they cost an arm and a leg...

or

would it be worth it just to take it to the dealer and have them do it for two hours and pay.

rugsr

worth me doing it since id rather know how, save the cash, do it to my civic and my friends hondas and as long as i take my tim eim good. is garaged so i can take this whole winter if needed

m735is

Another method:After you reattach the motor mount-
Jam a large screwdriver into the flywheel so that when you hold the screwdriver with your left hand, you can loosen the 18" extension on the crank nut with your right. Takes alittle control to hold the driver against the tranny housing, but it's pretty easy.
PB Blast (penetrating oil) the snot out of the crank bolt, repeately. You can also use some heat from a propane torch on the crank bolt.
My Civic's came off pretty easy this weekend, second belt and I used anti seize the first time. The first time though I was standing on a lug wrench trying to pop the bolt-then I learned of the PB Blast and heat.

Triple check the valve clearances, you don't want to put everything back on and hear a worse ticking. Are they ticking loud now? I've only adjusted mine twice in 332,000 miles. They sound fine and the motor runs fine, so I leave them.
You are doing the water pump also right?

91z28-350

The crank pulley tool is cheap, like $30. Buy one. Breaker bar, use the jack handle to leverage it. Use 1/2" ratchet tools or better yet, get an impact gun. I don't have an impact, but I leaned on the breaker bar with an extension (floor jack handle) and it popped right off. I jammed the breaker bar holding the crank pulley tool against the floor.

Watch out for the timing belt tensioner bolt. It's at an awkward location. I stripped it and ended up just jamming a grade 8.8 bolt in there from OSH after getting the original out and reusing the original washer with some dremel work. I hope it stays. It sucks not finding grade 10.9 anywhere locally on a weekend.

Use anti-sieze when putting that stuff back together. Just a bit, don't over do it.

EDIT: I wish I had this tool though. It'll makes things much easier when threading things back on. http://www.lislecorp.com/tool_detail.cfm?detail=569

rugsr

Nice Nice, Yea Im Doing The Water Pump Too. I Have All The Tools But The Wrench So Mabye Ill Have To Look Harder. The Motor Doesnt Tick At All. Thats Why I Wonder If I Should Adjust The Valves But Everyone Says I Should So Mabye I Will.
You Know Where To Get The Crack Pulley Tool?

bnuk

wow that is pretty damn nifty.

makes me wonder though...

What if you took a plate and drilled two 10mm(?) holes that will line up with the bolts that hold the sprokets on. Then before and you take off the belt (and after you've taken off the sproket nut) you took off those bolts, and put the plate on there and then replaced bolts and torqued them down onto that plate enough to hold the sprokets in place while you play around with the belt and everything else.