Timing belt install next week
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How do my taillights look
Joined: Aug 2005
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From: The Big Buff
yea i was thinkin gof somethin gliek that too
Kinda like a few popsickle sticks and some Elmers glue, MABYE some string...........JK
but no, i hear yea i might try something like that
Kinda like a few popsickle sticks and some Elmers glue, MABYE some string...........JK
but no, i hear yea i might try something like that
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Joined: Oct 2003
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Originally Posted by rugsr
Thats Why I Wonder If I Should Adjust The Valves But Everyone Says I Should So Mabye I Will.
Originally Posted by rugsr
You Know Where To Get The Crack Pulley Tool?
I think that's the one I bought. Google for the best price.
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Joined: Oct 2003
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Originally Posted by bnuk
What if you took a plate and drilled two 10mm(?) holes that will line up with the bolts that hold the sprokets on. Then before and you take off the belt (and after you've taken off the sproket nut) you took off those bolts, and put the plate on there and then replaced bolts and torqued them down onto that plate enough to hold the sprokets in place while you play around with the belt and everything else.
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How do my taillights look
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From: The Big Buff
[QUOTE=91z28-350]You have it apart, there's no reason not to. It's just a few minutes worth of work.[QUOTE]
THERES A CHANCE OF MESSING IT UP THOUGH, sorry caps
no i havent worked on the crank pulley yet, kinda been puttin git off till i get the tool but im not doing anything tonite.......mabye ill just try it out.
THERES A CHANCE OF MESSING IT UP THOUGH, sorry caps
no i havent worked on the crank pulley yet, kinda been puttin git off till i get the tool but im not doing anything tonite.......mabye ill just try it out.
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From: Orlando, FL
Originally Posted by m735is
Another method:After you reattach the motor mount-
Jam a large screwdriver into the flywheel so that when you hold the screwdriver with your left hand, you can loosen the 18" extension on the crank nut with your right. Takes alittle control to hold the driver against the tranny housing, but it's pretty easy.
PB Blast (penetrating oil) the snot out of the crank bolt, repeately. You can also use some heat from a propane torch on the crank bolt.
My Civic's came off pretty easy this weekend, second belt and I used anti seize the first time. The first time though I was standing on a lug wrench trying to pop the bolt-then I learned of the PB Blast and heat.
Triple check the valve clearances, you don't want to put everything back on and hear a worse ticking. Are they ticking loud now? I've only adjusted mine twice in 332,000 miles. They sound fine and the motor runs fine, so I leave them.
You are doing the water pump also right?
Jam a large screwdriver into the flywheel so that when you hold the screwdriver with your left hand, you can loosen the 18" extension on the crank nut with your right. Takes alittle control to hold the driver against the tranny housing, but it's pretty easy.
PB Blast (penetrating oil) the snot out of the crank bolt, repeately. You can also use some heat from a propane torch on the crank bolt.
My Civic's came off pretty easy this weekend, second belt and I used anti seize the first time. The first time though I was standing on a lug wrench trying to pop the bolt-then I learned of the PB Blast and heat.
Triple check the valve clearances, you don't want to put everything back on and hear a worse ticking. Are they ticking loud now? I've only adjusted mine twice in 332,000 miles. They sound fine and the motor runs fine, so I leave them.
You are doing the water pump also right?
Here is a trick I always do on timing belts. Get some white out and make your own timing marks using the old belt. With the engine at TDC, make a mark on one of the teeth on belt and follow that mark to the camshaft pulley(one the corresponding valley). Do this on each cam towards the top and make one mark on the timing gear on the crank(anywhere the belt and gear are touching). When you take the old belt off, count the number of teeth between the marks and make the same marks on the new belt so you have matching marks at the same places on each belt. Then line those marks up when you install the new belt and your good to go. Just adjust the tension and your set. This way there won't be any slackness in the areas the tensioner does not affect. Real simple and its a good way to back up your work.