Is it cool to fill the tranny from the little tube at the top of the tranny...? My car is in a bad spot to jack it up...

 

Yeah, that is how I fill it.

You will still want to have it jacked up so that you can have the filler cap off to make sure you don't overfill it.

 

I tried with out it jacked up and it didn't seem to take it. The fluid just sat in the the tube and overflowed after only a little bit of fluid. This time I'll jack it up...We'll see...:x:

 

My uncle says he got a specail tool to fill it so we'll see...I always seem to be waiting...

 

All you need is a foot or two of 3/8" fuel/oil hose and a funnel.

If that doesn't work, you could always use a pump of some sort to fill it the filler hole underneath.

 

He did mention something of a pump...We're gonna have at it later today...:closeup:

 

Hey guys,

I have a four door generation 2 integra (91) gs-r auto trans.

The back-up lights don't come on. I checked the bulbs, and the fuse, they are fine. What else could it be? Does this thing have a back up light switch on the trans? Or is it that for manuals only? I know that the auto's also have a transaxle gear position switch, dunno if that could be it as well.

Also, the really annoying thing, now it will not shift out of park into R, N, D, etc, unless I stick the key into the shiftlock release whole on the shifter. It started happening 1st when I had my wife shifting it into reverse and park a bunch of times (checking voltage to fix the reverse lights). She me have shifted it without putting her foot on the brake pedal. Dunno if that matters.

Any ideas? Yeah, yeah, I know "get a manual"

Thanks in advance!

--
Mike - G
pics

 

you need to access the inside trunk panel to get the antenna off. you also need to unscrew the holder outside the quarter panel so you can pull down the antenna from the inside trunk panel. hope that helps

 

i was wondering i have a 90 integra and i have a after market tack that says the car will rev to 8,000 or 9,000 rpm but it wont cuzz its set stock at i think 6 or 7,000rpm be for it hits the rev limiter i dont want to float a valve? so how much would it cost to put stonger valve springs in so i could rev out to 8,000?

 

First, there's no point in upgrading the valve springs and retainers if you're going to run the OEM cams. They're already running out of breath by 6100 rpm, so all you'd be making is more noise.

Secondly, it's not just the risk of valve float that determines your redline. The con-rod main bearings are not designed for constant use above 7000 rpm. If you want to build your B18A1 motor for continual high-rpm use, there are a series of upgrades that have to occur to preserve a reasonable level of reliability.

That said, there are cams available for the B18A1 that would justify the expense of stronger valve springs and retainers, while still making power in the rpm range your OEM con-rods can handle. Start by looking at Crower Cams.