I have a 95 gs-r with a drag 2 on it and am trying to decide whether or not to use the skunk turbo cams or the toda killer cams. I was wondering if anyone had any experience with these cams and if they had any specifications on the durations of both vtec and non-vtec cam lobes on the skunk cams. My main concern is that I really need to make up power in the non-vtec cam lobe part of my power curve. On a electromagnetic dyno instead of a inertial dyno i put down 218 at the wheel at 7600 and 148 at 6200. Peak numbers are okay for a electromagnetic dyno put my horsepower curve has a really bad spike at the vtec engagement point. Torque curve is very flat though. I have thought greatly of using the toda cams since i would go to essentially a duration that is equivalent to the stock vtec cam lobe all of the time. In addition I would lose some rotating mass in the cams. I would appreciate any feedback on the specs of both cams and some of your experience.
Thanks

 

You are really comparing apples and oranges. The VTEC Killer cam is more in line with the Skunk2 stage 3, not the stage 2.

Are we talking about a street driven car or a weekend monster? VTEC Killer cams are also streetability and MPG killer cams.

 

Skunk makes a turbo cam? Is this new?

What kind of engine management are you running? How much boost are you running? You might want to put the money you're going to spend on cams toward a good standalone unit. If you're already running a standalone, then put that money toward tuning. With the right tuning you should be able to turn the boost up to about 15lbs pretty safely, which should make more than 218whp. You could probably tune out any "spikes" in your power curve, as well. If you're not comfortable running that much boos on stock internals, then put your cam money toward some beefier rods and forged pistons and up the boost level.
I agree with this statement.

 

How about getting some custom turbo grind cams from crower :thumbup:

 

Yes I saw them on options site i am planning on doing standalone, injectors, msd-6btm, fuel rail, and thicker headgasket while the head is off. I want to get another block and buy the bottom end over a years period and send it to a machine shop over next winter not this winter and have it in 2 summers. I will only run 8psi next summer with the mods that I am planning on doing this winter and then putting in the built motor that following winter. I thought the skunk level 3 cam was an all motor cam, and was not meant for use in turbo applications due to a duration over 300degrees. I have seen cars that will use the toda vtec killer cams in turbo applications and have heard unconfirmed that the duration is in the high 280s to low 290s which would be around the stock vtec cam lobes duration. Essentially my goal is to get rid of the non-vtec's 212 degrees duration, in order to make better power on the low end of my curve. I have also thought that it might be as simple as getting a v-afc in order to alter the vtec engagement point.n Thanks for all of the advice.

 

The cars streetability is not a major concern , mpg is not important since I have another car to drive when I dont feel like taking it out. I have heard that streetability on both cams is fine just that they have very lopey idles and have a higher idle speed.
I have friends with eclipses with hks 272s and supras with 272s and have driven them and they do not bother me. Their streetabiliy is fine in terms of drivability they just have the idle characteristics that I mentioned earlier. If anything they seem more driveable due to more power in the low end. I will be running a stand alone with either one of these cam setups. I appeciate all of your guys advice.

 

The skunk Stage 2s are more oriented towards high-revving normally aspirated setups. Duration isn't the only spec you have to look at when picking cams. There's lift, overlap, ramp speeds...

Crower has a well proven turbo-specific cam profile that you can get on either their standard B-series VTEC core which runs around 650 or their "race" core which is another hundred bones on top of that. Regardless of the core, the profile has tons of lift and not too much duration.

Aside from the cams though, the turbo that comes with the Drag kits is a bit large to spool up quickly. Also if you're not doing anything about fuel aside from a MAP sensor check valve and an FMU then your curve is bound to be off.

 

Hey thanks for all of the advice guys.