adk683

i just got a huge system 2000watt rockford amp and 1 10" kicker L7 what is the best to sustain proper power to the system without bigger alt would buying an optima batt help or two batts or capacitator any opinions need and how to add second battery?

Snoopy

we have an audio and security forum where this would get better answers

TheOtherDave™

Which is exactly where this thread is headed....:run:

dleccord

I'd put a Yellowtop that fits under the hood and a G31 Yellowtop in the trunk.

Tyler88

What rockford amp? 2000 watts peak or rms. t2000 RF is underrated gives about 2400 watts rms...
isn't 2000 watts excessive for an L7?
figure you're stock alt output and stock bat output then the the amperage on the rockford. (30-50 amps should be left to run car?). If you're close in giving the amp what it need then second batt or capacitor will do.
Second alternator is best solution to servere under powering though...

adk683

my bad didnt mean to post in wrong forum and 2000 watts peak its a p5002 but not really to much power for l7 because im not going to turn gain all the way up and sub is rated at 1200 peak but kicker is underatted i think i will just get second battery but how and what is the best way to hook it up

wrx-killer

Hey bud sorry to say but your not going to get 2000watts true rms of the honda stock charging system. Its just not going to work in stock form. The most you can really get away with is about 1200 to 1400. And 1400 is really pushing it. A lower watts rms system planned out will bump harder then your set up. And with that amp playing there is no way your stock charging system can stay at 13-14 volts were that amps needs to be to make power. You risk motor boating that amp and in turn it will clip and send dc current to your speakers. And speakers hate dc current. But why would you use that amp on that sub? All you need is 500-600 watt rms amp to run that sub. Run that sub at peak all day long and you can call it toast soon. Find your self a mono amp to power it. Run some good quality 4 ga wire. Not that cheap stuff that really 8ga with a thick coating. I can't tell you how many times I see amps fail because of this. Or over heat. Because the noob thought he was really using 4 ga wire. Also upgrade to the big three or four. A cap could help but is not allway necessary. Most people use them for a band-aid to a problem. Before you do anything please make sure your charging system is up to par first before adding anything.

dleccord

You need to do the Big 3. Run a nice 4 gauge to your amp. Get nicer battery terminals if possible. No need for extra battery or new battery. /thread

97teg

I found this:

http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/scrip...cGFnZT0x&p_li=

The "Dirty" Truth About Distortion
Contrary to popular belief, distortion does not cause speaker damage. Distortion is merely the audible detection of signal "clipping". Clipping is when an audio component can no longer provide enough power supply voltage to "cleanly" amplify the audio signal. Clipping can occur at any point in the signal chain (souce unit, signal processor, amplifier, etc.) The popular belief is that if an amplifier "clips" it will send D.C. current to the speaker's voice coil and "burn" it. THIS IS NOT TRUE. It would surprise you to realize nearly every car audio system's amplifier "clips" when listening to music at moderate -to- loud levels. Electrically overpowering a speaker is caused by continually playing the audio system loud, resulting in applying more power to the speaker than it's "rated" specifications. This is what causes speaker voice coils to "burn".

It seems to me if you can turn even dc current on and off fast enough the speaker should be able to handle it. Plus it would still switch between a + dc and a - dc which is pretty much what ac is. I have heard that distortion increases the overall amount of power delivered to to the speaker and this is actually what causes the voice coil to melt. What are you thoughts on this?

I also feel that a ho alternator is the only way to go. If you are at sustained high levels you will drain even the best of batteries because you have more going out then recharging. Adding batteries will only add time until the voltage drops and the amp can no longer sustain the level. It also depends on the actual current at the levels you listen to.

wrx-killer

Good info, But I stand behind in what I posted and from hands on from all these years(14). If you hear distortion your leading your speaker to premature death. Thats were we get the saying. I have about 30 blown subs just sitting here because of cutomer clipping there amp. I have a customer jl audio 1000/1 amp that blew a brand new w7 from clipping. The amp motor boated so bad that when hooked up it spits out 40 volts out the speaker outputs and does not show signs of being blown till it powers up and pops your speaker. If you look at most componets speakers that are high-end. There is a lamp in the x-over to burn off the dc voltage.

My thoughts and what is true is that distortion does increase power and with the clipping (dc to speaker) And the speaker moving beyond its mechancial limits. Causes the speaker to fail. Number one problem from the begining is a bad install. Wrong power wire, bad ground. Bad system planning, ie. rms not matching up