Pressed on Rotors???
Ownz JOO
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 268
Likes: 0
From: Madison, Wisconsin
this might help:
http://www.federal-mogul.com/fmeconn...loads/3501.pdf
oh btw, dont pound the bearing, and if u cant remove the rotor/hub/bearing off the spindle, remove the upper and lower ball joints and take the whole rotor/hub/bearing/spindle to the machine shop and have them press it off. it should cost less than $40 each. goodluck!!!! been there done that!!!
http://www.federal-mogul.com/fmeconn...loads/3501.pdf
oh btw, dont pound the bearing, and if u cant remove the rotor/hub/bearing off the spindle, remove the upper and lower ball joints and take the whole rotor/hub/bearing/spindle to the machine shop and have them press it off. it should cost less than $40 each. goodluck!!!! been there done that!!!
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
From: Pennsylvania
I don't feel challenged a bit by questions, everyone has an opinion. Mine just comes from being a factory trained Honda Dealer tech of 12 years. So I'm kinda biased towards factory parts.
The extra cost in dollars will be your time spent taking the rotors off, at least twice, once when you get them machined and the next time when you decide you should replace them because they shake as bad as before shortly after the off the car machine job.
As far as the cheapo pads, they are the root of all evil as far as rotor warpage goes. Buy Honda parts if you want the same performance as when the car was new. Once you start putting cheapo parts on your car, before you know it, you feel like you're driving a cheapo car.
As far as "beating on the bearing" goes, its kinda beating in that area, but not on any bearing surface, at the most it will transfer some vibration through the bearing which won't hurt it a bit. I've done literally hundreds of those and never had a failure of a bearing after replacing the rotors.
If you do not feel comfortable swinging a hammer in that area, taking the knuckle off is a very valid alternative.
Again, i would not advise taking them off to machine them, only to replace them.
The extra cost in dollars will be your time spent taking the rotors off, at least twice, once when you get them machined and the next time when you decide you should replace them because they shake as bad as before shortly after the off the car machine job.
As far as the cheapo pads, they are the root of all evil as far as rotor warpage goes. Buy Honda parts if you want the same performance as when the car was new. Once you start putting cheapo parts on your car, before you know it, you feel like you're driving a cheapo car.
As far as "beating on the bearing" goes, its kinda beating in that area, but not on any bearing surface, at the most it will transfer some vibration through the bearing which won't hurt it a bit. I've done literally hundreds of those and never had a failure of a bearing after replacing the rotors.
If you do not feel comfortable swinging a hammer in that area, taking the knuckle off is a very valid alternative.
Again, i would not advise taking them off to machine them, only to replace them.
Honda Biased
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,076
Likes: 0
From: Kennesaw, GA
Originally posted by d21x
this might help:
http://www.federal-mogul.com/fmeconn...loads/3501.pdf
oh btw, dont pound the bearing, and if u cant remove the rotor/hub/bearing off the spindle, remove the upper and lower ball joints and take the whole rotor/hub/bearing/spindle to the machine shop and have them press it off. it should cost less than $40 each. goodluck!!!! been there done that!!!
this might help:
http://www.federal-mogul.com/fmeconn...loads/3501.pdf
oh btw, dont pound the bearing, and if u cant remove the rotor/hub/bearing off the spindle, remove the upper and lower ball joints and take the whole rotor/hub/bearing/spindle to the machine shop and have them press it off. it should cost less than $40 each. goodluck!!!! been there done that!!!
Originally posted by XHondaTech
I don't feel challenged a bit by questions, everyone has an opinion. Mine just comes from being a factory trained Honda Dealer tech of 12 years. So I'm kinda biased towards factory parts.
The extra cost in dollars will be your time spent taking the rotors off, at least twice, once when you get them machined and the next time when you decide you should replace them because they shake as bad as before shortly after the off the car machine job.
As far as the cheapo pads, they are the root of all evil as far as rotor warpage goes. Buy Honda parts if you want the same performance as when the car was new. Once you start putting cheapo parts on your car, before you know it, you feel like you're driving a cheapo car.
I don't feel challenged a bit by questions, everyone has an opinion. Mine just comes from being a factory trained Honda Dealer tech of 12 years. So I'm kinda biased towards factory parts.
The extra cost in dollars will be your time spent taking the rotors off, at least twice, once when you get them machined and the next time when you decide you should replace them because they shake as bad as before shortly after the off the car machine job.
As far as the cheapo pads, they are the root of all evil as far as rotor warpage goes. Buy Honda parts if you want the same performance as when the car was new. Once you start putting cheapo parts on your car, before you know it, you feel like you're driving a cheapo car.
How much does a set of front pads cost for my accord from Honda? I would like to get those since u recommend it.(i can sense the biasness, but that only comes from education of Honda's OEM parts).
I heard from a freind that Raybestos is a good pad company, is this true? This will only be an alternative if the honda oem pads are way too expensive. (i'm hoping for under $20 for the set)
Thanx
Dave
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 123
Likes: 0
Get AEM pads if you need more stopping strength but none of the semi-metallic traits of: squealing and lots of dark-colored dust on your wheels. I don't have them on but I've had Axxis Metal Master (semi-metallic) pads on a 00 AV6 and a 98 Civic LX. They both grind and produce lots of visible dust. AEM's are ceramic. And Honda's are decent overall. Plus if you go with Honda's, they give you the shim AND the shim grease.
Hey XHondaTech, I have a question for you on Unorthodox Racing underdrive pulleys. As a Honda tech, do you feel that the absence of a harmonic dampener on the UR underdrive crank pulley can cause long-term engine damage? There are two camps to this story and one side says that that harmonic dampers are now more used for eliminating vibration and harshness that may transfer to the inside cabin. Your thoughts? Thanks.
Hey XHondaTech, I have a question for you on Unorthodox Racing underdrive pulleys. As a Honda tech, do you feel that the absence of a harmonic dampener on the UR underdrive crank pulley can cause long-term engine damage? There are two camps to this story and one side says that that harmonic dampers are now more used for eliminating vibration and harshness that may transfer to the inside cabin. Your thoughts? Thanks.
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
From: Pennsylvania
The Honda brake pads are between $50-$70 retail at most dealers. There is a company that manufactures brake pads for Honda called Nissin, I used to buy from an importer that sold these. The older Honda pads in the 90's even had Nissin stamped into the steel part of the pad. However, some came with shims, some did not. If you consider the cost of rotors, either to resurface or replace them due to premature warpage by cheaper pads, it saves you money in the long run.
I would have to say the performance benefits of the lighter/smaller balancer are not significant enough to risk the damage to the crank itself or the premature wear of the bearings. If you want more performance, I mean real noticeable performance, not "sounds better or I think it feels better" performance, the only options are an engine swap, supercharger, turbo, or nitrous with the complementing exhaust and air intake. I have only set up a buddies 91 CRX Si with a Jackson Racing supercharger back in 1996 and it held up for 2 years of very hard running, after 3 transmissions, 2 Si transmissions and a DX (just for kicks : different gear ratios) he decided to pull the blower and exhaust and sell the parts to a friend. The Si never had a head gasket leak, no smoke, no noises and ran perfectly when he sold it wih 69k on the engine, it had 45k when we installed it. That made a huge difference in the performance of that car. I have installed exhausts and hot air collectors (cone air filters under the hood) and none ran better than stock, they just sounded louder.
I really am not an authority on all of the aftermarket stuff out there, I know what works best for longevity and reliability. Either way, I don't believe there are greater benefits than risks for replacing a stock balancer.
I would have to say the performance benefits of the lighter/smaller balancer are not significant enough to risk the damage to the crank itself or the premature wear of the bearings. If you want more performance, I mean real noticeable performance, not "sounds better or I think it feels better" performance, the only options are an engine swap, supercharger, turbo, or nitrous with the complementing exhaust and air intake. I have only set up a buddies 91 CRX Si with a Jackson Racing supercharger back in 1996 and it held up for 2 years of very hard running, after 3 transmissions, 2 Si transmissions and a DX (just for kicks : different gear ratios) he decided to pull the blower and exhaust and sell the parts to a friend. The Si never had a head gasket leak, no smoke, no noises and ran perfectly when he sold it wih 69k on the engine, it had 45k when we installed it. That made a huge difference in the performance of that car. I have installed exhausts and hot air collectors (cone air filters under the hood) and none ran better than stock, they just sounded louder.
I really am not an authority on all of the aftermarket stuff out there, I know what works best for longevity and reliability. Either way, I don't believe there are greater benefits than risks for replacing a stock balancer.
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
From: Pennsylvania
I have been out of the Honda scene for a year or two now and it looks like the AEM (Nissin) pads would be a safe choice. According to a website I saw, they were about $54 + shipping. So you may want to check a local dealer and check their prices. A lot can be said for having your parts here and now instead of wondering when they will show up and if they are the right ones. I've never bought from these folks, but some info...
http://www.import-store.com/aem_brakepads.htm
http://www.import-store.com/aem_brakepads.htm