I scanned this pic from the manual....it has the rotor on a surface(off the car)...with the hub assembly still on it. How did he do this? I want to do this so i can take that whole thing to a shop and have them refinished.



Dave

 

anyone?

Dave

 

I will be trying this myself this week... hopefully I will have some answers and pics.

 

Cmon people .....i just wanna know if u can simply take the hub nut off and the rotor can pop off?? (providing that the calipers are removed)

thanx if u have any info!

Dave

 

I own a '91 Accord and recently replaced my two front rotors. Not sure if yours is similar to mine but I'll give you the step by step process anyway. Remove the caliper and situate it to the side, out of your way, then remove the large center retaining hub nut. You'll need the following tool...Axle Puller w/slide Hammer (pics attached below) to remove the rotor. Having this tool will make your task easier, rent one if you don't own one. Alligned and attached the Axle Puller to two of your wheel studs, using the lug nuts to secure it firmly in place. Make sure they are firmly in place,without any play, otherwise you'll end up breaking a wheel stud or two in the process. When secured, pull the hammer back several times to loosen the grip of the rotor from the bearing housing, until the rotor/hub assembly comes off. Then you have the rotor/ hub assembly as you want it (off the car) on the pics you posted. Just follow the instructions on how to remove the four screws to seperate the rotor from the hub bearing assembly. Reverse to install. Good Luck! :thumbup: :joshers:

 

OK.....thanx for that useful information. couple of questions though. This tool, where can i rent one? And is it ALWAYS called a "Axle puller w/ slide hammer"?

Second, i am guessing that rotor is pressed on there so thats why u need this tool. I see how this tool will pull, but how do u PUSH the rotor back on? Does tightening the hub nut do this for u?

thanx for all this, gonna save me some $$

Dave

 

BUMP

 

That's what I call them and some tool suppliers refer to them by the same name. If you want print the pics and show them to be sure. Try your local Pep Boys, Auto Zone or any other auto parts store in your area for rental tools. Call them first and find out.

The rotor (commonly referred to as pressed-on rotor or floating rotor assembly) is connected to the hub assembly by the four screws. The hub assembly is pressed on the wheel-bearing hub, connected to end of axle.
When putting them back on, apply generous grease on the bearing housing and insert the hub back in place. Push it enough until the center hub stud is showing enough thread to put the nut back on. If properly situated (teeth all aligned) you should be able to slide it in easily. Sometimes, you'll need to hammer it back on for the thread to show, just remember to make sure the teeth are all aligned first. Use the same socket, used to removed the center hub nut, when hammering it back on. Never hammer on the hub itself and never use this method to force it back in place or you'll break something, it has to slide in easily. :naughty: :nono: When you tighten the nut, secure it by making a notch on the hub nut circumference, some might require a secure/locking pin.

 

I see what ur saying almost 100%. Just one last thing. At the end you said i should "secure" it by making a notch on the hub circumference. At first there is already a notch(Haynes calls it "staked"). It said to chisel that out in order to loosen the hub nut. So i took care of one side, i didnt loosen the hub nut yet cuz i'm gonna do that next weekend.

I did find out that the local Autozone carries that tool for $20...then i can return it and get my $20 back.

Also what kinda grease should i use? "Axle grease"? I would probably find that at autozone or some place similar?

Thanks for all your help!

Dave

 

Dave,

Correct on everything. :bigok:

You need to remove the previous notch (notch or stake) to remove the center hub nut, then you must chisel another one to lock it back in place during re-install.

Autozone is always good with renting tools for free. Leave the required deposit and once returned you get your deposit back, therefore...FREE. :naughty:

I paid over $90 for my own s#*t and I'm not even a pro mechanic. :dunno: , I guess I just love having my own tools when I need it, and besides the nearest Autozone is a good 20 minutes drive anyway.

Axle grease will do fine. :goodjob:

GOOD LUCK and fill me in! :blue: