Pressed on Rotors???
Honda Biased
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,076
Likes: 0
From: Kennesaw, GA
One LAST and final question....
Do you REALLY need to re-stake the hub nut? If i keep doin that, i'll eventually screw up the hub cuz that tip isnt replacable is it? Then again i shouldnt be turning my rotors every often huh?
I'll start this friday night(taking the rotors off)hopefully and get them turned saturday and have then reinstalled by sat night and i'll take a test drive as well.
Thanx again,
Dave
P.S. I drove alot today on the highway(about 100 miles), and it seems like the wobbleing is gettin worse. Does it usually get worse? Kinda scary to drive it now, i dont wanna screw it up further!
Do you REALLY need to re-stake the hub nut? If i keep doin that, i'll eventually screw up the hub cuz that tip isnt replacable is it? Then again i shouldnt be turning my rotors every often huh?
I'll start this friday night(taking the rotors off)hopefully and get them turned saturday and have then reinstalled by sat night and i'll take a test drive as well.
Thanx again,
Dave
P.S. I drove alot today on the highway(about 100 miles), and it seems like the wobbleing is gettin worse. Does it usually get worse? Kinda scary to drive it now, i dont wanna screw it up further!
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
From: Terror Target, USA
Removing the notch or re-stake the hub does not mean cut it off. You simply pop it up in order for it to unlock then re-stake it back to lock.
And yes, you should not be turning your rotors often. :nono:
Wobbling??? :huh: You might have another problem there. Normally a warped rotor will make screeching brake noise, not so much wobbling that you can actually feel it.
Try jacking up your front wheels and put your trans to neutral. Remove the wheels/tires and hand spin each rotor, you should be able to see from its rotation if it's warped.
And yes, you should not be turning your rotors often. :nono:
Wobbling??? :huh: You might have another problem there. Normally a warped rotor will make screeching brake noise, not so much wobbling that you can actually feel it.
Try jacking up your front wheels and put your trans to neutral. Remove the wheels/tires and hand spin each rotor, you should be able to see from its rotation if it's warped.
Honda Biased
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,076
Likes: 0
From: Kennesaw, GA
Hmmm...another problem? dont tell me that!
I was told specifically it had to be warped or uneven rotors(pad left deposit on the surface). It vibrates about 2 seconds after i apply moderate braking at a good speed(at least 20mph). Does it all the way up to 70+. So this cant be warped rotors? It only happens when i apply brake. I cant think of what else it could be.
Oh, the part where the hub was staked, it said take a chisel and bend it up. When i did, it chipped off, so i cant restake it in that location. I'll have to over tighten the hub nut or under tighten it and stake it with the remaining circumference of the hub "rim".
Dave
I was told specifically it had to be warped or uneven rotors(pad left deposit on the surface). It vibrates about 2 seconds after i apply moderate braking at a good speed(at least 20mph). Does it all the way up to 70+. So this cant be warped rotors? It only happens when i apply brake. I cant think of what else it could be.
Oh, the part where the hub was staked, it said take a chisel and bend it up. When i did, it chipped off, so i cant restake it in that location. I'll have to over tighten the hub nut or under tighten it and stake it with the remaining circumference of the hub "rim".
Dave
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
From: Pennsylvania
The last recommendation for using a "slap hammer" is not a good choice. You separate the hub from the wheel bearing and could cause some damage to the bearing when reinstalling the hub/rotor assembly.
You "should" unstake the axle nut prior to removing it. If you don't and you are using a 1/2" impact, the section of the nut will get damaged and prohibit you from restaking it after you put the nut back on the axle.(it will line up in roughly the same spot on the axle once tightened)
I would suggest that instead of using the center punch on the original bolts that go through the back of the steering knuckle into the hub assembly, to find some bolts that are about 2 or so inches longer than the originals bolts with a 6 point head that are 12mm and thread those into the holes, then using a 12mm socket and old extension, hammer on the four bolts in a criss cross pattern, this will save your original bolts from being damaged. On different years, they used either a 12 point 10mm head or a 6 point 12mm head. The hub/bearing assembly will eventually come out, then you will have the exact same thing as you have in the picture, the hub/bearing/rotor aseembly all as one unit. Place the assembly on the bench, remove the four 14mm bolts and remove the rotor from the back of the assembly. Clean any rust off of the back of the hub surface where the new rotor will mount to. Tighten the bolts evenly when reinstalling them onto the hub assembly. reinstall the hub/bearing rotor assembly to the knuckle and use the original bolts.
This is how you should replace the rotors, however, I would suggest doing this only if your rotors are too thin or will be too thin by time you will need to replace your pads the next time.
The best method for resurfacing or correcting a pulsation problem is using an on the car lathe, such as Kwik-Way or the Snap-On equivalent. These are very pricy tools, so usually only a specialty shop or dealer will have them. It does a much better job than taking the rotors off and having them machined. The difference is the on car machine cuts the rotors true to the bearing and hub. With the lathe off of the car, it cuts the surface tru to the brake lathe which will differ slightly from your actual car. In theory this should not happen, but it does as a lot of you have already found out. You replace your rotors after they have been resurfaced and they pulsate/shake as bad as they did before.
The older your car and the area in which you live (salt) will determine how difficult it will be to remove the hub/bearing assembly from the steering knuckle.
At a shop the labor time is approx 3.6 labor units for both sides. I have done it in about an hour at the shop with correct tools and a lift on a non-rusty car. On the ground, with a rusty car with hand tools expect at least 1.5 hrs per side.
Good luck.
You "should" unstake the axle nut prior to removing it. If you don't and you are using a 1/2" impact, the section of the nut will get damaged and prohibit you from restaking it after you put the nut back on the axle.(it will line up in roughly the same spot on the axle once tightened)
I would suggest that instead of using the center punch on the original bolts that go through the back of the steering knuckle into the hub assembly, to find some bolts that are about 2 or so inches longer than the originals bolts with a 6 point head that are 12mm and thread those into the holes, then using a 12mm socket and old extension, hammer on the four bolts in a criss cross pattern, this will save your original bolts from being damaged. On different years, they used either a 12 point 10mm head or a 6 point 12mm head. The hub/bearing assembly will eventually come out, then you will have the exact same thing as you have in the picture, the hub/bearing/rotor aseembly all as one unit. Place the assembly on the bench, remove the four 14mm bolts and remove the rotor from the back of the assembly. Clean any rust off of the back of the hub surface where the new rotor will mount to. Tighten the bolts evenly when reinstalling them onto the hub assembly. reinstall the hub/bearing rotor assembly to the knuckle and use the original bolts.
This is how you should replace the rotors, however, I would suggest doing this only if your rotors are too thin or will be too thin by time you will need to replace your pads the next time.
The best method for resurfacing or correcting a pulsation problem is using an on the car lathe, such as Kwik-Way or the Snap-On equivalent. These are very pricy tools, so usually only a specialty shop or dealer will have them. It does a much better job than taking the rotors off and having them machined. The difference is the on car machine cuts the rotors true to the bearing and hub. With the lathe off of the car, it cuts the surface tru to the brake lathe which will differ slightly from your actual car. In theory this should not happen, but it does as a lot of you have already found out. You replace your rotors after they have been resurfaced and they pulsate/shake as bad as they did before.
The older your car and the area in which you live (salt) will determine how difficult it will be to remove the hub/bearing assembly from the steering knuckle.
At a shop the labor time is approx 3.6 labor units for both sides. I have done it in about an hour at the shop with correct tools and a lift on a non-rusty car. On the ground, with a rusty car with hand tools expect at least 1.5 hrs per side.
Good luck.
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
From: Pennsylvania
A simple solution to the axle nut problem you are having is, to either overtighten it slightly, or swap the nut from the opposite front wheel, the two nuts will differ in the staked location and if the nut chips, no big deal the chipped part will line up on a spot other then the place you need to stake it.
Honda Biased
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,076
Likes: 0
From: Kennesaw, GA
Ok, first thanx for your post(s) XHondaTech...really apreciate it.
Second, i want to clarify somethin before we go any farther, you say its BEST to use an "on the car" lathe? And NOT take the rotors off? Is it worth the $50 i'm saving? I can get the two done locally for $80. I got the $50 with the pep-boys price per rotor of $7 and the other $16 in parts i purchased for this job(36mm socket and breaker bar). All which can be returned if i decided not to do this job.
How long has "on the car" lathes been around? I kinda thought it was a newish thing(about 5 years old). How well did refinishing the rotors off the car before work out?
In other words, whats the chance that i go and take the rotors off and have them resurfaced and the pusating STILL be there? I dont want that!
Thanx!
Dave
Second, i want to clarify somethin before we go any farther, you say its BEST to use an "on the car" lathe? And NOT take the rotors off? Is it worth the $50 i'm saving? I can get the two done locally for $80. I got the $50 with the pep-boys price per rotor of $7 and the other $16 in parts i purchased for this job(36mm socket and breaker bar). All which can be returned if i decided not to do this job.
How long has "on the car" lathes been around? I kinda thought it was a newish thing(about 5 years old). How well did refinishing the rotors off the car before work out?
In other words, whats the chance that i go and take the rotors off and have them resurfaced and the pusating STILL be there? I dont want that!
Thanx!
Dave
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
From: Pennsylvania
The on the car lathes have been around for at least 12 or 13 years with the actual bits like a lathe, honda used to have a machine that used grinding stones to do it on the car.
If done properly on the car, they are as good as new aside from being a bit thinner, which will cause them to warp sooner than new ones.
Chances are very high that they will pulsate after you resurface them off the car. In 12 years of experience, I have resurfaced more rotors that have been taken off and resurfaced than the origianl rotors that came on the car.
So I guess to answer the question, off the car on Hondas especially 90 and up accords does not work very well, you end up spending more time and energy (and money) to take them off than to pay to have a reputable shop with the right equipment and know how to do the job right the first time.
If done properly on the car, they are as good as new aside from being a bit thinner, which will cause them to warp sooner than new ones.
Chances are very high that they will pulsate after you resurface them off the car. In 12 years of experience, I have resurfaced more rotors that have been taken off and resurfaced than the origianl rotors that came on the car.
So I guess to answer the question, off the car on Hondas especially 90 and up accords does not work very well, you end up spending more time and energy (and money) to take them off than to pay to have a reputable shop with the right equipment and know how to do the job right the first time.
Honda Biased
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,076
Likes: 0
From: Kennesaw, GA
How do i spend more money by taking them off versus taking them to get "professionally" done "on the car"? I can spend just 20 bucks and do it, versus $80.
And, i'm not challenging you, just asking you to explain that part there.
Also, I am starting to agree with you, its just i dont want to front $80 for it, oh well, do what i gotta do huh?
Also another question, i bought some cheap pads from advance auto parts taht i have on there now. Is there anyway pads would cause rotor damage(warpage)at all?
Thanx!
Dave
And, i'm not challenging you, just asking you to explain that part there.
Also, I am starting to agree with you, its just i dont want to front $80 for it, oh well, do what i gotta do huh?
Also another question, i bought some cheap pads from advance auto parts taht i have on there now. Is there anyway pads would cause rotor damage(warpage)at all?
Thanx!
Dave