The last recommendation for using a "slap hammer" is not a good choice. You separate the hub from the wheel bearing and could cause some damage to the bearing when reinstalling the hub/rotor assembly.

You "should" unstake the axle nut prior to removing it. If you don't and you are using a 1/2" impact, the section of the nut will get damaged and prohibit you from restaking it after you put the nut back on the axle.(it will line up in roughly the same spot on the axle once tightened)

I would suggest that instead of using the center punch on the original bolts that go through the back of the steering knuckle into the hub assembly, to find some bolts that are about 2 or so inches longer than the originals bolts with a 6 point head that are 12mm and thread those into the holes, then using a 12mm socket and old extension, hammer on the four bolts in a criss cross pattern, this will save your original bolts from being damaged. On different years, they used either a 12 point 10mm head or a 6 point 12mm head. The hub/bearing assembly will eventually come out, then you will have the exact same thing as you have in the picture, the hub/bearing/rotor aseembly all as one unit. Place the assembly on the bench, remove the four 14mm bolts and remove the rotor from the back of the assembly. Clean any rust off of the back of the hub surface where the new rotor will mount to. Tighten the bolts evenly when reinstalling them onto the hub assembly. reinstall the hub/bearing rotor assembly to the knuckle and use the original bolts.

This is how you should replace the rotors, however, I would suggest doing this only if your rotors are too thin or will be too thin by time you will need to replace your pads the next time.

The best method for resurfacing or correcting a pulsation problem is using an on the car lathe, such as Kwik-Way or the Snap-On equivalent. These are very pricy tools, so usually only a specialty shop or dealer will have them. It does a much better job than taking the rotors off and having them machined. The difference is the on car machine cuts the rotors true to the bearing and hub. With the lathe off of the car, it cuts the surface tru to the brake lathe which will differ slightly from your actual car. In theory this should not happen, but it does as a lot of you have already found out. You replace your rotors after they have been resurfaced and they pulsate/shake as bad as they did before.

The older your car and the area in which you live (salt) will determine how difficult it will be to remove the hub/bearing assembly from the steering knuckle.

At a shop the labor time is approx 3.6 labor units for both sides. I have done it in about an hour at the shop with correct tools and a lift on a non-rusty car. On the ground, with a rusty car with hand tools expect at least 1.5 hrs per side.
Good luck.