see back probing.This is for testing volt.Their are 3 reasons to back probe.

1.it will not damage the male pin by spreading it open(If you probe the front of a male pin)

2.Its temporary(you don't have to cut any wires)

3.You can test a live circuit(If you unplug a connector the circuit it will no longer work)

Now make shure you have a good connection at the jump wire to the safety pins and safety pins to the connector hit the brake and see if you can get out of park.Try not to let the safety pins touch ground(Not a big deal you would just blow fuse 25).

 

Hey man, it work! Thanks a lot! I can finally get the hell out of "P" now after 2 years! Thanks a lot for the help, I really appreciated. Now, the other problem is, how will I get the "D4" light to come on? Anymore genius ideas?

I guess I'm gonna come to you for more help now. I got many more problems coming your way. Thanks A lot again!

 

nice.let me get some more shit.

you but connect them?Keep an i on fuse 25 20amp under hood.I think if you honk the horn shift out of park and pull your key out it will blow lol.

 

Im getting a plan.I need some more info.

Do the d3,2,1 work.

Is it a 2door 4door ex,si,lxi,hf whatever lol.

did it all work before the swap.

will it still shift threw all the gears.You did have a shift problem we might look at that.

 

You serious? But why?

 

My car is like my user-name, 93 Accord SE (4 door sedan) LOL! Before the swap, everything was working fine like a normal car should be. However, when I did the swap(professonal shop did it), I believe I wasn't able to get out of "P" even with the Accord TCM but the "D4" indicator lights up. When I put the Prelude TCM, I still couldn't get out of "P" and "D4" indicator doesn't light up. But now, with your genius idea, I can get out of "P" with the Prelude TCM and Accord TCM.

About the shifting problem, that's in another thread. But here's a short story of what happen. The reason why I bought the Prelude TCM because I wanted my motor to shift correctly and redline at 7200rpm(prelude shifting and redline). When I got the TCM, everything worked great such as the correct shifting points and redline at 7200rpm(exclude the can't get out of "P"). After a Year when I tried to clean my throttle body with some Intake-Cleaner, my motor started to rev UP and DOWN after engine warm-up("N" only). One months later, I replaced the TPS and I guess everything worked fine again. Ever since that happened, my motor was shifting differently in RPM/Speed, so did my Redline stopped at the Accord's 6300rpm. I also bought another Prelude TCM just 2 weeks ago and it still does the same thing, nothing solve. So what the hell went wrong?
Sorry I make the story longer than short.

 

K in think i have an idea.Lets get the d4 light fixed first.

Block the front tires set the e brake start it up put into D4.

At connector c437 i need to see if you have 12v to grn pin17 and yel pin18.
(back probe it with a volt meter).

It will help me build a plan.I think i see a problem between the accord and the lude.We should be able to fix it.

 

Hey Fuse, nice new name. Sorry I haven't have the time yet to do what you told me but I'll try it tomorow. Been very busy these days with school. I'll let you know.

 

thanks,no problem.

 

Hey fuse,
How should I back probe the two wires(pin17&pin18)? I have a volt meter tester. Should I use the positive needle to connect to the wire and the negative needle to ground(car)? Or should I use the positive needle connected to one of the wire and the negative needle connect to the other wire? Please let me know, I don't want to get shock.