No, that is what you are doing.

I simply offered the best advice to the original thread creator for better stopping power for a cheap price and then you came along suggesting a foolish waste of money for stainless steel brake lines and then you persist to invalidate the truth.

Next time you should take a look at your own actions before making such a hypocritical comment.

 

And how am I doing that when I only listed the possibilities?? If I were forcing opinions, I would be putting other ideas down, touting my own as the only thing that should be done........hmmm that sounds familiar.
Invalidating the truth that they are for preference? Im willing to bet that a positive feel is preferred over a squishy feel when it comes to street driving.
If they are incapable of making their own decisions perhaps nothing should have been posted at all.
Maybe taking a second look at the original post there was more than just a "best price" scenario question asked.

 

Are we really fighting about stainless steel brake lines? :doh:

Fuck, we both need to get a life. :exnbp:

 

ladies and gentleman, I have been in the brake industry for years.......and if you know anything about brake when you drill or slot a rotor you cause an interruption between the pad and the rotor. this causes, one, the gases of the pads to exit out of the swept area, two, it give the pads a constant
GRIP on the rotor WOW you will stop better!!!!!!

 

Yes, that is true when the brakes are hot enough to need the extra ventilation like road racing and spirited mountain runs but for daily street driving, the holes take away from surface area. The lower temps of street driving need more surface area to stop more effectively, not lower temperatures.

I would recommend drilled and or slotted rotors if the application needed it, but for a street driven car with minimal hard braking, it is strictly for aesthetic purposes.

 

I hate to tell you but cross drilled or slotted rotors don't do squat anymore. Brake pads don't gas anymore like the older 70s pads. With a good braking system you NEED SURFACE area for effective braking. When you drill or slot out your rotors you make less surface area for your pads to work effciently with.

Sort of like saying that skinnier tires will grip better in a corner than a wider tire. That's backasswards.

My setup that has worked for autocrossing in the past. Brembo Blanks, AEM pads, Valvoline Synpower brake fluid and stainless steel lines. If your brake lines are over 3-5 years old it's probably a good idea to get them replaced. And while getting them replaced might as well get stainless steel lines.

If you want a little more gripping power go with Brembo Blanks, Hawk HPS pads, Motul 600, and stainess steel lines.

But remember your car only stops as good as your tires. If you run around on crappy Pep Boy tires you will stop like crap. Now if you run Hoosier A3S05s with your brake system you will see a difference.

I know with that 1st setup I was still able to lock up my brakes which means my tires need to be more grippy.

 

Ok, besides the bitching between everyone, I like the first few replys about the Integra Calipers, but dont completely understand what I would need to do the upgrade.

I do drive fast up and down hills, and I am on my brakes alot of the time, my last set of wheels (painted white) started to blister from the heat from my brakes, and I have had a few warped rotors. I dont drive like that as much as I useto, but I love the look of sloted/crossdrilled rotors in the middle of a nice new 16" TSW blade. The wheels are black so it really shows off my brakes.

I have cleaned my calipers, and painted my front 2 red (to break up all of the black) and the 2 rear calipers black. they were not rusty at all, just really dirty, I cleaned them up with some simple green and a wire brush.

As far as pads go, whats the best pad that will give me a long life, low noise, and good stoping power?

And I am not completely sure you understood my first post, what I really want is the same size calipers and rotors on my rear, as the ones I have on my front, is that possible?

And what junkyard car can I rape for parts?


P.S. I have Kumho ECSTA Supra 712's on 16" wheels

 

power slot rotors

 

is it worth it to put rear disk brakes on a 97 DX? If I do will I need a new brake fluid resevoir with 4 lines instead of two? I dunno, I haven't really looked at it yet.

 

no u dont need 4 new lines.. go here.. www.hazone.com and go to the how to's section..