Thread: Brake Upgrade?
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Old Apr 26, 2005 | 07:56 PM
  #26  
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CivicSiRacer
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From: Someplace with cones=AUTO
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Originally Posted by oldschool65
ladies and gentleman, I have been in the brake industry for years.......and if you know anything about brake when you drill or slot a rotor you cause an interruption between the pad and the rotor. this causes, one, the gases of the pads to exit out of the swept area, two, it give the pads a constant
GRIP on the rotor WOW you will stop better!!!!!!
I hate to tell you but cross drilled or slotted rotors don't do squat anymore. Brake pads don't gas anymore like the older 70s pads. With a good braking system you NEED SURFACE area for effective braking. When you drill or slot out your rotors you make less surface area for your pads to work effciently with.

Sort of like saying that skinnier tires will grip better in a corner than a wider tire. That's backasswards.

My setup that has worked for autocrossing in the past. Brembo Blanks, AEM pads, Valvoline Synpower brake fluid and stainless steel lines. If your brake lines are over 3-5 years old it's probably a good idea to get them replaced. And while getting them replaced might as well get stainless steel lines.

If you want a little more gripping power go with Brembo Blanks, Hawk HPS pads, Motul 600, and stainess steel lines.

But remember your car only stops as good as your tires. If you run around on crappy Pep Boy tires you will stop like crap. Now if you run Hoosier A3S05s with your brake system you will see a difference.

I know with that 1st setup I was still able to lock up my brakes which means my tires need to be more grippy.
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