:rick:

I'll be pricing one of those today.. :chuckles:

If I have a big FMIC? Did you see the first pic?

 

My roomie runs 50:50 alcohol and water in the winter, and all water in the summer, it never really made a difference in power, but you might have to do some playing on a dyno to really figure out if it can. Also, windshield fluid works well in a pinch too h:

 

High Boost Applications + No Exaust Gas Temp Gauge = Extremly high possibility for BOOM!

They are definatly a nice thing to have!!

 

Sorry for the no reply I was talking with Fuzion Auto about my install job. I will be here until 4:45 EST, then I'm headin out for the night. I should be available tomorrow night anytime after 7:00 EST if you dont reach me by today. I'm looking for all kinds of turbo parts, clutch, etc. I'm trying to hit 300WHP with this JDM Si-R b18c1.

I'll talk to you whenever I hear from ya!

 

I will definitely look into it then. Thanks for the input guys. It has really made me think about a lot of different options. I also know that I need to research these different injection methods.

I'm off to send the motor. :yay:

 

Yes, Josh, I know your car... Just saying that some people use WI with small IC's to compensate for what happens to the charge air after heat soak sets in. People who have a big enough intercooler to prevent heat soak (like yourself) STILL benefit from water injection, and still make big power gains with it. The premise of how it works is similar to an EGR valve. Only instead of adding burnt HOT gasses from your exhaust, you use cold inert gasses that contain no hydrocarbons in order to make the charge air denser (regardless of its temperature). The result, unlike what your EGR does, is that you burn cleaner, cooler, and with more (final) compression.

You have already blocked off your EGR valve, haven't you?

About EGT's...
EGT gauges are WORTHLESS for fuel tuning, and that's a huge, long explanation for those that don't know why and have been doing that. But what an EGT gauge WILL do is give you a heads-up when you're melting your motor. Sometimes they'll tell you a little too late. EGT's are a better indicator of your timing advance than they are of your fuel mixture since it doesn't measure the temperature INSIDE the combustion chamber. I still wouldn't build my tuner car without one because rods, pistons, blocks, head work, etc... is very expensive. It costs a lot less to have an EGT gauge and to just lift your foot off the gas pedal if things get dangerous.

Get an electronic one with a warning light. Computerized gauges with memories are cool and all, but with an EGT, that info will never be useful after-the-fact. Save your money. They're just cool if you like to show off. You'll never learn anything by watching an EGT gauge play back. Non-electronic gauges don't have warning features, but the warning light and/or buzzer output like the Greddy 60mm peak-hold has is worth the $.

I'll elaborate on the fuel tuning vs. EGT usefulness if it's necessary, but I just don't want to see you hose your motor from detonation. You need a parachute if you go skydiving.

 

Tell me about the EGR block off. Not sure about that one.

The motor was sent. $48 from AL to CA and it will arrive next Monday. Long time, but worth it. :yes:

 

Uh oh....











I just told AEBS to put Pauter rods in there. :rick:

 

sheesh...

 

EGR valves allow exhaust gas to recirculate through the motor (Exhaust Gas Recirculator). It's an emissions thing. By re-breathing these gasses, more of the excess hydrocarbons from the exhaust get burnt, thus, lowering emissions of carbon monoxide. Because the majority of hydrocarbons are burnt during initial combustion, the exhaust gasses that are recirculated aren't really flamable. They're an inert gas. They add to your engine's compression, and actually improve your gas mileage, but the gasses are hot. They increase the temperature of the intake gasses, and in a way, they're counteracting what your intercooler is doing. But the worst part of it (IMO) is that these gasses carry carbon deposits that get left behind in your intake manifold, on your throttle body, and throughout the cylinder head and valves. These carbon deposits create hot spots when combustion occurs, which increase the likelihood of detonation. You might have noticed these deposits when you took your engine apart. It's that thick filthy black sooty stuff caked on everything bolted to your intake manifold. Basically, by blocking off the EGR valve, your intake will stay cleaner.

You don't want to do this in places where emissions are tested. It will increase the amount of "harmful" gasses that leave your car, and it will likely fail. But if you have a decent fuel computer, and you're tuned on the leaner side of the stoichiometeric fuel trim, you can actually make your engine burn cleaner than most cars that have them because most cars run pig rich to avoid detonation. The OEM type of fuel-dumping process used to prevent engine damage and to suppress knock actually creates the harmful hydrocarbons that need to be re-breathed in order to be considered harmless. But if you're using only the fuel that you need, you will actually create more power. This occurs both from lowering the intake temps, and from being able to replace the inert gas with even more air and fuel.

Some cars will throw CEL's if you do this... usually that's only if you remove the valve. If you leave the valve connected and in tact, but put a piece of sheet metal between the ports on the EGR valve and the intake manifold, blocking the gasses from passing through the valve, you can get by without any sign of any malfunction. Many cars don't even have EGR systems. For instance: None of the 1.6L Elantras, Mirage, Colts, Summits have EGR. There's a factory block-off plate installed on these that fits any of the 2.0L counterparts produced by these manufacturers (they use the same intake manifolds as the 2.0L cars). But these smaller engines don't emit enough noxious gasses to really need one.

Water injection will clean every bit of carbon out of your engine and exhaust. That in itself will reduce the likelihood of detonation. But if you can replace the inert gas with more fuel and oxygen, and then add a COLD inert gas, you get the benefit of the EGR valve's function without all the carbon and heat.

I dunno everything about Honda EGR systems, but it works for the DSM, Mazda and Toyota community where factory turbocharged cars are a lot more common. It might be worth reading about. I think there's a write-up on it at http://www.vfaq.com