there's not too many of those around

 

GSR Block = done. CP Pistons, End CR of 9.5:1, Eagle Rods, Supertech Valve Train, S2IM, ITR Cams, 5 bolt Camgears, exedy clutch, lightened OEM flywheel and balanced rotating assembly, did a complete OEM rebuild on everything else - new oil pump, water pump, tensioner, filter, ICM, Cap & Rotor, etc... Runs extremely smooth, and even un-tuned it feels better than the day I bought it with 25K. I haven't gone past 5500 RPM's yet though...

Still working on the turbo setup. Should be complete by beg. of February.

 

A good tuner can easily idle 750's...I've seen 1000's idle with no problems.

 

That's a very good turbo foundation. You kept it simple and didn't go too light on the flywheel nor aggressive on the cam lift.

 

Thanks...

I looked into the lighter flywheels but for the sake of reliability, I had a local machinist mill mine to 13 LBS. Balanced with the rotating assembly. I just want a nice street car, with the occasional track day. Not interested in sacrificing longevity in order to squeeze every single possible hp out of it.

I got an OBD1 p72, but i'm still contemplating which tuning method. Originally I planned to street tune with chrome, but now thinking i'm better off leaving it to the professionals. I'll use whatever they are confident with locally. I did get an AEM Wideband in the process.

 

It's smart you're sticking with alot of OEM parts. For the flywheel you would want to keep it on the heavy side with some minimal reduction, opposed to n/a setups you want to keep the inertia for the spinning motor to reduce spool up times. If you went too light, you can find yourself revving up real fast from the extra power then stalling it more than you should.

Crome is fine, Spec R ran that setup in his car. If you do have the funds, Hondata's pieces have always been prevalent since they are very close to OEM code. Our race car originally had problems dialing in the ITBs on the AEM EMS with the K20, when we found Hondata had higher resolution and OE friendly maps...it was fixed in no time.

 

Crome was a great base for my friends and I, but thats because we had an idea of what we were doing, plus we had the chip burners, widebands, on the fly tuning also.

not everyone has access to that equipment. in the long run, its better for you to run hondata, since its mainly for you, and you want the least amount of downtime for yourself and your tuner.


oh yeah, i was never able to make my car idle smoothly despite our best efforts. it would stick to 550 rpm steadily, but that 550 is too low for a smooth idle. it would vibrate a bit too much for my liking, especially with the ES motor mount inserts i had.

 

i didn't even think about tuning it, the only problem i think i'm going to run into is that my car is obd2

shit my inspection is due.

 

OBD2 is just as good as OBD1 it just uses different charts to tune by. A few years ago it was a major issue but it has since been eliminated as a problem of any consequence.

 

d'oh have fun on the inspection.