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cast iron sleeves

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Old Jan 11, 2007 | 12:00 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Snoopy
personal preference but i'd choose different pistons and rods. and a block guard isnt necessary with new sleeves.

the guy building the motor todl me to use srp and eagle even though he gets nothing really out of it except my money in the long run.
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Old Jan 11, 2007 | 12:02 PM
  #32  
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like i said personal preference. those can do the job just fine as well.
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Old Jan 11, 2007 | 12:02 PM
  #33  
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it was the hardest decision between all motor and turbo. but i think in the long run i'll be happier with a turbo setup.

so turbo setup ftw
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Old Jan 11, 2007 | 12:04 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by AP2
If AEBS knows it's for a daily driver, they're not going to fill the deck. Besides there are many OEM turbo setups that run closed deck, look at the 4G63.
Exactly.

Or you could just go to honda-tech and learn how to epoxy fill your block.
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Old Jan 11, 2007 | 12:04 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Snoopy
i thought their t-sleeves only came in closed deck
If you take a look at one, you will see the cooling channels on top.
Originally Posted by Omie
yea its been a toss up for a while, but going turbo seems like the best idea. the money isn't the issue, just having something realible is.
It all comes down to the builder and how well the motor is dialed in. N/A and turbo both have very different approaches and your bore/stroke is essential to this....
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Old Jan 11, 2007 | 12:05 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Snoopy
personal preference but i'd choose different pistons and rods. and a block guard isnt necessary with new sleeves.
Werd on this...

If your spending the money to sleeve, I'd definitely use the best pistons and rod's money can buy. CP Pistons are balanced within 1 gram of each other. This virtually eliminates the need for a balancing the rotating assembly. Carrillo rods are top choice, IMO.

Your OEM head will not really be a restriction until your making extremely high numbers.
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Old Jan 11, 2007 | 12:07 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by AP2
It all comes down to the builder and how well the motor is dialed in. N/A and turbo both have very different approaches and your bore/stroke is essential to this....

right, just like i said i'm not to motor savvy, i rather pay someone to do it right then me trying to do everything myself and blow something up.
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Old Jan 11, 2007 | 12:09 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by 2001TEGGSR
I didn't know that AEBS offered an option. I thought they always used a closed deck design.

As far as the 4G63, it was a cast iron block up until 2004. I always took the stand point that it was designed to be turbocharged, the block is much stronger. Heat will warp an aluminum block much quicker.
Honda blocks (including OEM sleeves) have been proven over and over to be reliable under a healthy a/f ratio. Reason why people experience warp often is leaning it out. There are many 10-11sec stock block Hondas out there. The only reason why they have to rebuild is the OEM rings are the weakest link. Other than that, the blocks are still smiling.
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Old Jan 11, 2007 | 12:10 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by Omie
right, just like i said i'm not to motor savvy, i rather pay someone to do it right then me trying to do everything myself and blow something up.
Where are you located?
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Old Jan 11, 2007 | 12:10 PM
  #40  
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Wiseco pistons, Crower rods, AEM EMS, large injectors, good sleeve, good machine work, turbo cams (if you get any, don't get off the shelf n/a cams)....and you don't need a block guard unless you run stock sleeves.
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