i dont know why/how i missed this thread...

Anyways, I use a DC Sports 4-2-1 on my h22, and it suits my needs just fine

 

yeah most will recommend the DC header, i have'nt heard of any complaints about it at all, fits fine and looks/performs great
IMO

 

Does the dc header hang lower then others?

 

it may look great, but 2hp over the stock header isn't performing great. i guess for 300 bucks you shouldn't expect 7, 10, 15 hp, but personally i think you're better off saving the money and keeping the stock header.

personally if i was crunched for money, and wanted a header, i'd probably get the Greddy.

 

its not so much about the money for me, its about how much money i am willing to put into the lude at this point, its already capable of roasting most other cars on the road with its stock exhaust.

and yes i scratch my DC header on my driveway everytime i pull in, which is why i am now stuck in the street. the funny thing is, it bottomed out on the downpipe before i lowered it and now it doesnt seem any worse just about the same, go figure. either way its new header time this summer, cause the repeated scraping has formed a nice gash on both downpipes that go under the oil pan, and now its starting to rust so eventually it will give out and then ill have to get a new header.
itll probably be a prospeed mainly because of the numbers.

~kris

 

hell i just use the stock 4-2-1 header. why opt for 3 hp when its gonna cost you 350.00 I see that money going toward cams, etc,etc that can give you more hp for a little bit more

 

ill prob buy a dc stainless header cause when i run nitrous and cams soon
it will make a bigger difference on the bottle with the increased exhaust flow.

 

Just make sure you break that engine in bro. Did you ever decide what pistons and rods you're going to go with? If you don't have the money to build the whole bottom and and sleeve the block just throw the stock pistons back in. What's Honda saying about you wanting to put forged pistons in. Are they going to let you send out the block to have it sleeved or what. Bro I run a DC header and it's sufficient enough for my ass. Screw the 1000 dollar header! Put that thousand into forged internals and you'll see way more power than you would if you bought the infamous smsp or hytech header! Also stainless headers put out mad heat in the engine bay. I think ceramic runs a bit cooler but I could be wrong.

 

yea definitely dont rev above 4000 for the first 1000 miles.
THAT MEANS NO VTEC :nono:
when i rebuilt my motor, i drove to and from quogue on montauk hwy every single night for a full week. that pretty much took care of the break in.

-dont go over 3500-4000 rpm
-dont drive at one RPM for a long time (no highway)

i heard it best to do lite stop and go driving, hence why i took montauk hwy to quogue and back.

i also changed my oil at 200 or so miles, and again at 1000 at which point i started running mobil 1 full syn.
i broke it in with castrol gtx 10w30 as per honda.

~kris

 

im lookin into a header for my h22a....which one is better deal for the money....jdm header, dc sports, or arospeed....or any header in the 120-400 dollar price range