I would have to agree since I have that and feel the same way. Only downfall is that your nice new AEM cai isn't gonna fit up to it anymore. You will need a Type R one. Or you can just rig one up temporarily like I have done. But yes definetly look into an intake manifold. I have the Skunk2 one and its great. Oh and it gets rid of those secondarys or butterfly's.

 

So your saying that if I purchase a type R manifold I can still run the AEM CAI>???. If not is there any way i can? Does the manifold add any hp or sound




latro

 

The Type R Intake Manifold and the Skunk2 Intake Manifold are basically the same thing. And yes the manifold does add hp. From what I noticed it added the most power so far that I have put on my car. I only have a e/h/i/hi-flo cat, fuel rail and vtech controller and now intake manifold.

The manifold is a definite good power adder in my opinion. And it does give a different sound, nothing too different, but enough to notice. The sound sounds a little more deeper mainly becuase you are getting rid of the secondaries that open up at 5800rpm on a stock gsr manifold. On a itr or skunk2 manifold you won't have those secondaries and it won't sound as buzzy at high rpms any more.

But newayz the only 2 downfalls is 1. since you bought a aem cai to fit to a gsr manifold already then you would need a new one. Yes aem makes ones to fit to the new manifolds but it is a integra type R one which costs too much in my opinion. I simply just took my old aem cai that fit to my gsr manifold and kinda rigged it up to fit to my new skunk2 manifold. Eventually I will buy more piping to run it back down as a Cold air intake but for now its a short ram.

The second downfall, which isn't really a down fall is that you lose low end power from this and gain much high end power. You will really feel it pull one you hit about 6 grand all the way to the red line. When I first nailed it after putting the manifold on I hit the rev limiter a couple times because I wasn't used to the added high end power. Anyways sorry for the long story here just thought I'd give you all the details. Anymore questions let me know.

 

I wonder if that "downfall" is even an issue. Is this a condition that happens because of the R manifold, no matter what vehicle? Or just when added to a GSR?

I'ev got PLENTY of power down low, and I've got the single intake runner.

 

Welcome and congrats on the purchase.

People have been giving suggestions as to power mods and whatnot but let me give you a different perspective. If you want to go fast, save up for a quality turbo. I/H/C/E, intake manifolds, DIY advanced timing and whatnot are all decent bolt-on power adders, but you're not going to be smoking anyone at the stoplight with just those.

I would get some decent tires (if you're still on the stockies) and invest in a quality suspension BEFORE changing anything in the engine bay.

Shingo

 

well since hondas are made for high reving and high compresion a turbo is going to cost him alot more money since he'll need to lower compression and beef up every thing . if you do decide to go turbo still get the skunk2 intake manifold(type-r won't work) you'll get even more power with a turbo

 

A turbo is obviously going to cost him alot more money than I/H/E and other assorted bolt-ons. But it sounds like he's pretty eager to be *faster* than everyone else out there, so that's why I recommended he skip all the 5-20 whp bolt-on mods and save up for F/I. You will not see the gains made from F/I with an all-motor setup, and the all-motor route is just as expensive (if not more). A turbo will give you the largest possible gains for a honda period.

The B18C1 isn't exactly a high compression nightmare for boost (think S2000 F20C). You'll only need to lower compression and build up your internals if you decided crank up the boost. You can run 6-9 psi just fine on the stock internals with proper fuel management aka tuning. With a turbo running 8 psi he'll be faster than someone who spent an equal amount on, let's say, an all-motor setup.

Shingo

ps. If you still want to do bolt-ons ignore what I said and listen to the other guys. I would hold off on changing out the intake manifold and messing with the fuel rail etc. as that will bump you well out of stock/STS classes if you decided to autocross and whatnot.

 

Yea sorry I forgot about that. The ITR manifold won't fit to a gsr because the bolt patterns are different. Sorry about that. Glad you pointed that out there Josh(spooncivic). And if you got the money for a turbo kit and you want power fast. Then I agree go with a turbo kit. But if you want some basic bolt-ons. An intake manifold is a good buy!

 

Hey guys THANKS ALot for your info. I did notice that if I got header, manifold, and catback I would be pretty close to the price of a turbo(possibly?). If i would get a turbo what would you reccomend? I know its hard to say but i would like a turbo that if a stang gt pulled up to my I could blow him away. It would have to be reliable also because I will have this car for probably the next 5 years minimum. Can you even run a turbo on the stock headers and manifold?? And someone about stated that his teg has great bottom, and i think the gsr's is pretty weak. You gotta hit like 5 before it really picks up.

ps. My tires are currently eagle f1's and i think they are incredible and ive never heard them squeal in turns

LAtro

 

When you get a turbo you get rid of the stock intake and header. The turbo manifold, turbo and downpipe replace the stock exhaust manifold; the charge pipes replace the intake.

For now I would just make sure that every little bit of maintenance is taken care of. From there get some good tires (I see now that you have them), refresh the brakes and then tune the suspension a bit. The car will go the same speed in a straight line but will be much more satisfying to drive.

But hey, that's just me and maybe you really want to put a hurting on some mullet-wearing Mustang drivers and I'm not one to stop you notwithstanding my negative opinion of street racing in general.