http://www.raxles.com/

 

Thanks !!!

I just looked at the axles. I wish I had pictures to show what I did, but I will try my best to explain.
I jacked the car up and placed it on jack stands.

Then I started the car and placed it in 2nd gear.
As the axles were turning, I crawled under the car and held a straight screw driver tip against the axle. (Sort of how a lathe works).

1) On the divers side, I held the tip of the screw driver on the axle, between the transmission and the bearing which is BEFORE the cv. So, she cv could not influence the observation. The screw driver stayed very steady. This should rule out a transmission problem on the drivers side.

2) On the divers side, I held the screw driver on the other side of the bearing (between the bearing and the inner cv) and the screw driver bounced around. Therefore, it seems to be the inner cv.

3) I also held the tip of the screw driver against the axle on the passenger side and the screw driver bounced around. So, I will buy 2 new axles and axles nuts.

I will leave a comment after I change the axles.
Thanks

 

I just talked to Marty at http://www.raxles.com/ and he told me that allowing the wheels to hang down while the car is in gear and running is bad on the cv's

So, if anyone does it, don't do it for long

I placed the order and they will be shipped on Wednesday.

 

Without having it up in the air, there is no way to diagnose the problem. Good thing your axles were already fucked up.

Keep us updated.

Oh, and how much did you pay for the axles BTW?

 

I agree. I think he said $129 each. That is high considering some of the prices on ebay. Hopefully they are worth the extra $. I forgot what shipping will be.

 

hopefully they come with some sort of warranty...129 seems purdy expensive

 

Axles on eBay for $179/pr they talk them up.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Acura...22051154QQrdZ1




I checked with the raxles guy and he said the same $129/side

 

I replaced the axles yesterday and got a new 4-wheel alignment today and the car drives very smooth. I don't recall they car ever riding as smooth as it does now! Thanks for the advice!

I stared replacing the axles on the right side.

The Haynes manual said to take off the lower ball joint and lower control arm but I could not get my puller to fit on the lower ball joint. So I did it another way and I will try to explain it the best that I can without pictures.

I removed the inner bolt (closest to the transmission) of the lower control arm. Then I went towards the tire and removed the next bolt. Then I removed the nut on the next bolt. The 4th connection of the control arm is the ball joint and I did not remove it. I removed or loosened 3 bolts/nuts on the control arm. Then I removed the nut on the BOTTOM of the sway bar (The nut that holds on the rubber bushing). I attmpted to remove another bolt on the sway bar but I did not have any luck because I needed to hold the bolt with an allen wrench and the wrench twisted.

After you take the 3 bolts/nuts off of the control arm and the center bolt off of the axle (at the wheel), you can bend the brake assembly towards the rear of the car.

NOTE: You might have to push the axle inward as you pull the wheel assembly towards the back of the car, so the axle will have the clearance to come out of the wheel assembly.

The Haynes manual also said to pry on the drivers side axle but I could not get it to budge while prying with a steel rod and my foot. So I tapped it lightly with a big hammer, and it immediately came loose.

I hope this helps.

Raxle was more expensive than other places but Marty at Raxle was very informative. Marty sent me a pocket knife with their business address printed on it, rubber gloves and rags for the install, (I found the gloves AFTER I completed one side), a UPS return slip for the core, and directions to the local UPS store.

I recommend Raxle because they offer good customer service.

 

Wow, you did it the hard way. All you need to do is get that lower ball joint removed and it will allow the knuckle to slide out of the way. I guess I should have directed you toward my DIY, which shows the proper way to remove a ball joint without any special tools.

Sounds like Raxle treated you right. I haven't personally done business with them but if I needed to in the future, the quality customer service is always a selling point.

 

I read your explanation on that post. That seems like a much easier way. I ripped the boot so I guess I will be replacing the ball joint one day

Thanks