yes, but so is gas mileage and everything else under the sun. what i am saying is that for what you are paying for you arent getting something worth while-- it will be faster, but to what extent is the question.

personally i would buy a GSR motor and then just boost it until it requires new interals-- in the end you'll spend about an extra $600 or so on parts but the car will be much faster. plus a turbo setup has way more potential than the NA setup of the type-r motor.

all in all you can push 260+ to the wheels with just a bolt on turbokit and some tuning with a gsr motor, vs 170 with the type-r motor, yet you are only paying a few hundred more-- granted it costs more, but at least it's money well spent.

 

well the price for a gsr is $2000 for long block, and $1360 for ITR transmission.
gas mileage is not a factor. i have a 93 Accord SE that gets exceptional gas mileage. but it'd prolly run a 17 sec 1/4 mile. the civic should run mid 13's with the engine swap. so it'll be worth the poor gas mileage every weekend.

I'm not turboing anything besides an LS. I have a preference. i think turbo setups are generally not practical and do horrible damage and are a huge pain. i had a turbo ls in my old integra. and it was the worst experience of my life. yea, boost feels great, but it isnt worth the headaches and the blown motors. not to mention, i dont see too many stock gsr's with turbos around where i live doin much better then 13.5 with street tires and 5-6psi.

a turbo kit costs $4000 + the cost of engine management and then tuning time. Thats way more then the $1400 difference in price for the ITR swap. The itr swap will get me started with a decent NA build and wont break down on me. No intercooler couplings falling off, etc.

 

still, i feel that you are better off getting the GSR-- even if you want to upgrade either of the motors in the future the most logical decision would be to mill the head and install pistons with a taller dome height-- going with some stronger rod bolts and then pushing the compression up while increasing the redline by installing a set of more agressive cams.

note that you can have just as many problems with a NA setup, and if you are looking for a bargain beater that can go fast i would rather look into something more logical, do you know how many cars do 13's stock? more than just a few.

alot of the turbo gsr's on here are reliably pushing 10PSI and estimating times down in the 12's

 

i dont think if it get a type r motor i will need to do much to upgrade in the future. and a close to stock itr will have less problems then a stock GSR at 10psi. and i think i can get into the 12's without even spending that much money on a itr. with the mugen headgasket i got, my compression will be at 11.4:1. The transmission gearing is perfect for 1/4 mile. LSD. some mild cams (buddy club Spec III or similar) would only cost around $600. and probably by next summer, i'd like to upgrade the throttle body...ITBs. then some tuning. the total cost would be right around the same as a turbo gsr. but i like NA better, and i really think once the tuning is done, the car would be much more reliable then once the tuning is done on a turbo car. im just not a fan of turbos.

 

anyone got any idea what kinda power that would make? ^

EDIT: with a good exhuast, i would think over 200 wheel. not much though.

 

you obviously have no clue. honestly.

 

A turbo setup for a GSR will cost alot less than $4000. If you peice a kit together, your looking at 1500 - 2000. FI is the absolute best bang for your dollar, end of story. Proven time and time again. And can be completely reliable if you tune it properly.

If you insist on the ITR motor, then just buy it. The B18c5 is a great engine, and an enginering marvel IMO. Just highly over priced because of all the hype. Aftermarket cams will deffinately give you a bit more power, but dont forget to figure in the cost of tunning. Probably another $500, on a conservative street tune. And the cost if upgraded valve springs & retainers to support the higher rev's. And to take full advantage if the higher lift, you'll need to raise the compression a bit. And I deffinately do not recomend pulling the head of a perfectly good ITR, to install a thin head gasket.

I bet after you spend $1500 + on mods for that ITR, you will be dissapointed. You'll hardly notice 20 +/- HP.

When its all said and done, your the one who has to look at it everyday, so do whatever you desire.

 

i found alot of the stuff he said to be correct, but if he's actually reasonably thinking about ITB's he's straight out of his mind.

 

if you buy a b18c5 just to rip out it's guts you just wasted a ton of money

 

Is this thread going to stop chasing it's tail anytime soon? :loco:

This has become an "NA v Turbo" debate, with a serious lack of direction.