difference between JDM itr and USDM
10-18-2006, 06:05 AM
#21
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i dont have a gsr anymore. i sold my gsr. i have to make a choice between a JDM ITR and JDM GSR. I'm really not trying to spend $2000 on a GSR long block and then just tear it completely apart to changeout the pistons. i can get a usdm type r transmission for around $1360 which will bring my total to $3360 (for a jdm gsr long block with usdm itr transmission) which is still $13-- less then the itr. But i wont have the power i want. If i got a GSR I would have to change the pistons to some CTR pistons and use my mugen head gasket and get about 12.3:1 compression. and i could use my omni power valve train to get some nicer cams. but by the time i spend all that, i could have just gotten an ITR motor. a GSR long block costs $2000. i do not want to buy a GSR block for $2000 and then rip it apart. It doesnt seem like it makes sense.
10-18-2006, 12:02 PM
#22
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Using a thin gasket is a horrible way of increasing compression.
You could easily reach your goal going FI. And if you do decide to go FI, use the GSR motor. Theres people on this board runnining turbokits with just under 290 WHP, on stock internals. A Properly tuned engine can be just as reliable as OEM. With forged pistons and rods, you could make 400whp.
You will spend alot more trying to acomplish your goal NA, although it is possible. Budget around $8K, including the cost of the B18C5.
You could easily reach your goal going FI. And if you do decide to go FI, use the GSR motor. Theres people on this board runnining turbokits with just under 290 WHP, on stock internals. A Properly tuned engine can be just as reliable as OEM. With forged pistons and rods, you could make 400whp.
You will spend alot more trying to acomplish your goal NA, although it is possible. Budget around $8K, including the cost of the B18C5.
10-18-2006, 04:38 PM
#23
I missed Sean
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the only thing i would justify buying witht he type-r name is the LSD. thats it. not the tranny. not the engine. nothing else.
if you want to have power you will have to go F/I, otherwise you'll just top out with anything at about the type-r's level, possibly surpassing it by only a few, maybe 10-20 horse with some work and race fuel.
and don't act as if turbo's dont have bottom end or something, compare the torque curves and you'll probably note less than 10% drop over stock torque in the low end. it's just the power comes on quickly after that, so it's not like you lose anything, it just seems to be less because the way the graph is scaled.
if you want to have power you will have to go F/I, otherwise you'll just top out with anything at about the type-r's level, possibly surpassing it by only a few, maybe 10-20 horse with some work and race fuel.
and don't act as if turbo's dont have bottom end or something, compare the torque curves and you'll probably note less than 10% drop over stock torque in the low end. it's just the power comes on quickly after that, so it's not like you lose anything, it just seems to be less because the way the graph is scaled.
10-18-2006, 11:46 PM
#25
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Well the guy who sold me my 93 civic hatch, stock condition, ITR motor, CAI, 4-1 dc header pulled 13.6 before he blew the thing up 
. If I were u, I would go with a built gsr motor and turbo 
h: . But thats just me.
Also would milling the head be a good or bad way to gain compression?
. If I were u, I would go with a built gsr motor and turbo h: . But thats just me. Also would milling the head be a good or bad way to gain compression?
10-19-2006, 12:13 AM
#26
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10-19-2006, 07:28 AM
#28
been there done that
10-19-2006, 01:35 PM
#29
^ Visual Learner
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the only thing i would justify buying witht he type-r name is the LSD. thats it. not the tranny. not the engine. nothing else.
if you want to have power you will have to go F/I, otherwise you'll just top out with anything at about the type-r's level, possibly surpassing it by only a few, maybe 10-20 horse with some work and race fuel.
and don't act as if turbo's dont have bottom end or something, compare the torque curves and you'll probably note less than 10% drop over stock torque in the low end. it's just the power comes on quickly after that, so it's not like you lose anything, it just seems to be less because the way the graph is scaled.
if you want to have power you will have to go F/I, otherwise you'll just top out with anything at about the type-r's level, possibly surpassing it by only a few, maybe 10-20 horse with some work and race fuel.
and don't act as if turbo's dont have bottom end or something, compare the torque curves and you'll probably note less than 10% drop over stock torque in the low end. it's just the power comes on quickly after that, so it's not like you lose anything, it just seems to be less because the way the graph is scaled.