That compression ratio is way too high for boost. You will have to rebuild the engine with lower compression pistons and boost friendly valvetrain if you expect that motor to last.

And 8 psi is a retarded way to measure boost. 8 psi will differ from turbo to turbo, so it really depends on the CFM flow of the turbo.

The engine isn't an 04 because they stopped making B-series motors in 2001. Just because you bought it in 2004 after an alleged rebuild doesn't make it a new motor.

 

I would highly recommend putting the money from your 8 PSI and throwing it strait into your engine.

If you are wanting an 8 PSI boost, it sounds like you mostly like the sound of a turbo. Yea, it's cool, but an all motor ITR tuned right definately beats an 8 PSI ITR in HP, style and sound.

 

ok it might of been produced in 01 but it was never used

 

What are you smoking? The money spent on a turbo setup on an ITR will anally rape an identical all motor ITR with the same amount of money invested. Yes, ITR motors probably shouldn't be boosted, but the high compression is great for a low boost setup tuned correctly.

I might be biased, but the sound of turbo spool and a blow off valve are much cooler than an overly loud N/A setup.

What is wrong with a low boost setup? I am running 10 psi on a stock internal GSR daily driven because I don't need 300 whp for stop and go traffic. Some people don't want 300 whp especially if the car is daily driven.

 

agreed, i have driven shmoo's car and that thing halls ass, and will rape a lot of cars...

I too had this n/a notion at one point until i saw the light, i took all my n/a stuff out, and went turbo as well!!! and i love it so much better IMO of course then N/a for the money and for the amount of power gain!

 

I am sure it can-I've heard about it.

We are all talking about an integra type-r engine here aren't we? Let's keep in mind there's already a bit put into it:

"ok i just put a 04 type r engine in with a full high compression valve train and JE forged pistons. my compression ratio is 11.2:1 with a double layer mugen gasget...."

I am only thinking pure HP/$ in this situation. Why would you think about lowering the compression on an already built engine ($2500), then spend more money on turbo (at LEAST $3,000). Given, turbo will yield more HP/TQ if done up more than 8 PSI, but that's money (maybe $2,000 more).

My statement that all motor ITR's are better than an 8 PSI is, of course my opinion. That's something you will have to decide-it's what you want for your car.

In any other situation, it might be argumenative whether an 8 PSI ITR would get an ITR with $4k in it, but not this one. There is already pistons and valvetrain (say $2500 in). $4k more could easily get sleeving and a stroker kit to 2.0/2.2. With that, there is no way the 230 HP from an 8 PSI ITR could get a stroked, HC ITR.

Also keep in mind-after you lower CR, turbo, get all the management needed, you still need it perfectly tuned. VTEC and turbo is great, but does damage if not done just right.

Again, think where you want to be in the end. All motor or turbo is your choice. If you decide to stay with turbo, go ahead and lower CR and get set up for it. If you want all motor, add a little more to it.

Unless you want more than 350 HP, I would recommend staying all motor. That's the best deal for you HP/$. If you want to squeeze more than 350 HP, definately start setting up for your turbo now-but don't stop at 8 PSI.

Jake

 

how much hp do u think u can get with a fully built n/a motor??? your dreaming if u think u can get more then 230whp and be streetable

 

Here is an engine some guy built.

http://www.high-performance-engines.com/b18c1.html

This GSR engine produces 275 HP, is bored and/or stoked to 2.1 L, HC (11.5:1) runs on pump gas and is street legal. Remember you can still safely goto 2.2 L from the B18 series. I think it would be reasonable to see 290 HP from the 2.2 L.

Here is a guy's car. He has a spooned-out 2.0 L claimed to 290 HP. What happens if that goes to 2.2L?
http://www.modifiedcars.com/cars/591.htm

Jake

 

Keep in mind, once you goto 2.2 L, there isn't much more you can do besides raise compression MORE (Not streetable).

That's why I said if you want more than 350 HP, go turbo. Less than 350 HP in this situation, stay all engine.

Think of what you want in the end. Once you have an all-engine set up, it's going to hurt the bank even more to go turbo, so decide now.

 

Keep dreaming if you think that you will get any more than 275 whp all motor out of a B-series motor.

Yes, in his case, with the high compression, it would be more cost effective to keep it N/A.