Ok, i just aquired a 94ls 4 door 5speed for a crack head price so heres what Im considering

Okay I've had some people drop a b16 in an integra but have heard that you would have to really rev the motor to get the real power out of it I can obtain a B16 for a good price and they are everywhere

GSR motor techincly the best choice however aquiring one will hit the pocket book

LS B18a1 94+ motor just dropping in another lower milage LS motor and calling it a day
B20 motor? Isnt it kinda of the same as a LS motor?
I kinda dont want to spend the money to aquire a GSR motor so will a B16 swap fufill my needs to have a moderatly faster car, or should I just save up for a GSR?

Or should I just build up a lower milage LS motor and go from there?

I would like to hear the pro's and con's with these set ups I know alot of people are down with the LS/Vtec swaps n stuff like that but I would like the dependability of the above motors kinda dont want to deal with a LS/Vtec even though its a hell of a set up

Holler at a brotha on what route I should take

 

if you want to be decently fast you want the b18c1. a b16 in an integra is no fun.

 

whatever snoopy said.

DAve not to take this too off topic but...

how much heavier is the H22 engine and tranny compared to the B18c1 motor and tranny?

 

Not much. Probably less than 50 lbs or so.

 

IMO, the H22 is old news and it's still overpriced.
Plus, you have to ditch the A/C to make it fit.
You can damn close to the H22's torque with a built B20.

And since I'm pissing people off, screw the B18C5...don't they still go for about $4000? :eh:

Here's what I'd do. Assuming CA smog legality isn't an issue...

1) Buy a knackered old B20Z long block.

2) Strip the motor down and upgrade to forged internals with a static compression of about 10.5 to 1. If 93 octane is available, you can go a bit higher. If you plan on using nitrous oxide, I'd go no further than 11:1.

3) Port & polish the head; reassemble with Crower 404s and the requisite retainers, springs and cam gears. Add an LS header, high flow cat and cat-back exhaust.

4) Reassemble, mate to a GSR transmission and install.
It'll drop into a DB8 with the stock mounts.

The stock LS ECU will work... but a programmable ECU will help. Add a dry nitrous oxide injection system, jetted for 75 hp ... add a few hours of dyno time and you're good to go.

You won't have a 8500 rpm redline, but you'll have a more useable powerband with more torque available at lower rpm. And with the nitrous oxide on hand, you'll have the top-end power to dominate when you need it. Furthermore, the bottom end is overbuilt to provide a safety net should you encounter detonation.

 

Dahm Dave!!!!!!!!!!!!


Well I hate to see people say the LSVTEC is not a dependable motor. If maintnece and all is there then it's just as good as anyother motor. Just check the oil and stay on top of it and your good to go.

 

:chuckles: I was on a roll last night, what can I say.

I agree with your position on LS/VTEC motors..to a point. It's been well documented that the stock LS conrods have issues when asked to rev past 7 grand.

IMO, a well-built VTEC conversion truly requires the GSR crank girdle, oil pump and upgraded rod bolts at a minimum. Either that or a strict adherence to a 6800-7000 rpm redline.

 

By looking at how many problems you have had with your setup, dependability is the last thing I would think. A headache is more like it...

 

hehe yeah your right.

 

Power steering and AC can be retained with an H22 swap...just have to buy some CNC'd AC and PS brackets...I forget who makes them. And if you're gonna get a B20Z and just rebuild it, might as well get the B20B...cheaper and much easier to find.

LSVTECs are perfectly reliable and dependable if correctly built.


It's not the rods that have the problem, it's the rod bolts. Upgrade those alone, you're good to 8k reliably. I know firsthand what the stock rods can do...my roommate had an LSVTEC with ARP bolts and shotpeened OEM LS rods...9500 rpm all day. He also had a balanced rotating assembly, and used the crank girdle.