Motor decision
Originally Posted by dubcac
Power steering and AC can be retained with an H22 swap...just have to buy some CNC'd AC and PS brackets...I forget who makes them. And if you're gonna get a B20Z and just rebuild it, might as well get the B20B...cheaper and much easier to find.
The H22A is fetching about $3K for a JDM H22A vs. $900 for a B20B.
It's not the rods that have the problem, it's the rod bolts. Upgrade those alone, you're good to 8k reliably. I know firsthand what the stock rods can do...my roommate had an LSVTEC with ARP bolts and shotpeened OEM LS rods...9500 rpm all day. He also had a balanced rotating assembly, and used the crank girdle.
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Originally Posted by TheOtherDave™
Duly noted. My main point was cost-effective power.
The H22A is fetching about $3K for a JDM H22A vs. $900 for a B20B.
The H22A is fetching about $3K for a JDM H22A vs. $900 for a B20B.
I agree, the B20 is the best swap, offering lots of options...N/A nonvtec, CRVTEC, boost, nitrous.
That's an impressive feat.. 9500 on a B20 w/ stock bore & stroke! :eek3:
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2015 Ford Mustang GT Fastback - Ingot Silver - 6M - Performance Package - Gibson Catback, JLT CAI, FR 47lb injectors, BAMA E85 tune, Eibach Sportline, BMR wheel hop kit, UPR oil separator, Steeda shifter bushing/bracket
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2015 Ford Mustang GT Fastback - Ingot Silver - 6M - Performance Package - Gibson Catback, JLT CAI, FR 47lb injectors, BAMA E85 tune, Eibach Sportline, BMR wheel hop kit, UPR oil separator, Steeda shifter bushing/bracket
Team B.O.B.® - Ballaz on a Budget


