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12-second Integra?

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Old Mar 1, 2004 | 09:57 PM
  #21  
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i'm hoping to hit low 13s with my (near future) H22 swap with bolt ons and some fairly mild cams/head work in my dc4.
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Old Mar 1, 2004 | 10:15 PM
  #22  
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hey,

*unrelated advertising of parts for sale removed by moderator*

ps:is posting about parts for sale against the rule boards, i just joined :P

peace,
dave
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Old Mar 1, 2004 | 11:15 PM
  #23  
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We try and keep the selling of parts limited to the Parts Classifieds forum. Unless someone is actually looking for a part (i.e. they post a "Want to buy" thread) we discourage you from posting in threads offering up various things that are not really applicable to the question at hand.

You are of course, free to post For Sale threads in that forum as well.
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Old Mar 2, 2004 | 03:10 AM
  #24  
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i think this is all starting to come together in my mind. thanks for all the killer information.
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Old Mar 2, 2004 | 09:16 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by SOLDIER [X]
what makes u say this? any experience or second hand?
From a B20 buildup writeup:


In inspecting the block for structural integrity, the first thing I look for on a B20 is the quality if the aluminum casting that surrounds the 4-in-1 cylinder sleeves. Viewing the block’s deck, there should be no areas where the aluminum wasn’t absolutely flush with the bore casting, especially in the fillets between the adjoining cylinders. All B20 blocks are not created equally in this important area, and if the block isn’t “perfect”, broken cylinders are a certainty.



The cylinder casting that Honda uses in these B20’s is extremely brittle when compared to more resilient “round” individual bore liners. This is simply the nature of a casting such as this where sectional thickness varies so significantly. These cylinders are easily cracked if there’s just a hint of detonation and all it takes to break one of the blocks with the small casting flaws is about 220 HP, so they can certainly be a liability.
But yeah, my personal experience with built B20 blocks is rather limited (I'll admit that... I haven't worked on any shortblocks besides a Mustang 5.0), but thinking of it from a rational point of view, the B20 wasn't made to rev high enough to get lots of power from the top end, and the chief advantage it has over a B18C is the increase in cylinder bore... so wouldn't it be a better idea to use a stronger B18C block, and bank some money on oversized pistons and sleeves?
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Old Mar 2, 2004 | 09:24 AM
  #26  
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I stroked and sleved B18c1 with oversized pistons at 11:1 would be better than a b20 with vtec head. The oil problem is the biggest reason. You could get to the low 12's with the right parts and know how.
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Old Mar 2, 2004 | 09:33 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by import-tooner
I stroked and sleved B18c1 with oversized pistons at 11:1 would be better than a b20 with vtec head. The oil problem is the biggest reason. You could get to the low 12's with the right parts and know how.
i am not entirely sure i understand. it is the b20 that has oil delivery problems or the b18?
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Old Mar 2, 2004 | 02:37 PM
  #28  
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both have the oil delivery problem because they weren't built for vtec but when ur doing a frankenstein conversion u are more likely to run into problems
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Old Mar 2, 2004 | 08:10 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by SOLDIER [X]
both have the oil delivery problem because they weren't built for vtec but when ur doing a frankenstein conversion u are more likely to run into problems
I think he is talking about the b20 vs the c1 or c5.

BTW: If you gonna go with a civic, a hatchback would be a lil lighter, but not much.
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Old Mar 2, 2004 | 08:29 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by CiViC2nR86
I think he is talking about the b20 vs the c1 or c5.

BTW: If you gonna go with a civic, a hatchback would be a lil lighter, but not much.
i know he was talking about that but i was talking about how frankenstein engines have oil issues as to compared with engines built with the squirters built in not having any issues
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