which Suspension should i go with?
Originally Posted by 98SmeLS
I wouldn't count on Tokico struts being more durable than Koni's. First I've heard of that.
Perhaps you will want to check out this link to Steeda where they race on Tokico struts (having switched from Koni 2 years ago) and have better durability and track times. Chase this link, then go to the ROAD RACE section on the left and read the article about the Ilumas (5 way adjustable VS 2 way way adjustable) and you will see in print that they are a better product.......on a much heavier car than an Integra so if they can handle the abuse they get from a heavy car, then they will be well suited for an Integra.
http://www.steeda.com
Originally Posted by RookieIntegra
thanks for you input, i would only like to lower it about 1.5 but i like the fact that i can change it if need it. i wouldnt mind some wheel gap, just nothing that makes me car look really stupid. hopefully i dont have to get a camber kit with my drop, but it would be adjust if its too bad, hopefully not lol. as for the Tokico, i have never been in a car with them on but i would check them out when the spring integra meets are here. so far i got my heart set on koni, but before i make a purchase i would look more into the Tokico. plus they are cheaper then koni ( i think), lol.
Don't let me tell you that Koni doesn't make a good product, I'm just telling you that you need to look at Tokico's as well because they make a good product also.
If you are only lowering 1.5 inches, you should be fine without a camber kit. The biggest thing is to make sure you don't have anything other than exactly a ZERO camber. The only reason camber is used on a race track is when you make a circuit and have mostly right or left turns..........by leaning the tires you get better grip. But on the street, you make left and right turns so camber angles that are greater or less than zero only serve to wear the tires.......in addition to the fact that they only help handling at speeds higher than you will see on the street when the car is on edge in the corners.
Tokicos are JUNK. They are far too soft even when adjusted to their stiffest setting. Koni is of a MUCH higher quality and I'd even consider KYB above Tokico. ALso lets not leave out Bilstein when setting up a list of better options than Tokico. There are plenty of options and there is a reson hardly anyone mentions Tokico. They have been making shocks for our cars fro at least the last 6 years I have owned and worked on my Intagres and civics. I've used them. . . they suck.
Originally Posted by Fast-Ford
If you are only lowering 1.5 inches, you should be fine without a camber kit. The biggest thing is to make sure you don't have anything other than exactly a ZERO camber. The only reason camber is used on a race track is when you make a circuit and have mostly right or left turns..........by leaning the tires you get better grip. But on the street, you make left and right turns so camber angles that are greater or less than zero only serve to wear the tires.......in addition to the fact that they only help handling at speeds higher than you will see on the street when the car is on edge in the corners.
That is so wrong . . .
1st, camber serves a pupose even on the street. you think handling physics change just because the car went from the race track to the street? Camber has nothing to do with speed but everything to do with lateral G's which you can see at 15 mph. You don't drive that slow on the street do you?
2nd, and this is the most IMPORTANT thing to REMEMBER, CAMBER DOES NOT WEAR TIRES, TOE DOES! Sure -3 degrees of camber will wear out a tire quicker but the -1.5 to -2 degrees of camber we see is not a tire wear issue. Toe on the other hand is what will wear a tire. Toe in the front should be set slightly out on each wheel while set to ZERO in the rear. As a side note we have NO camber adjustment in stock form. You can add a kit but you are often doing yourself a disservice by removing negative camber. An integra handles best with about -1.5 to -2 degrees of camber and you can even vary the rear so that there is less negative camber in the rear of the car to help with oversteer.
Trust me on the camber wear issue. I run -2.25 degrees camber Front, -1.4 degrees camber rear, 1/8" total toe out in the front and Zero Toe in the rear. This setup has me well over 20,000 miles on my ES100's with no adverse or uneven wear and several miles left on them.
alright i just recieve my rims, however i am still short of one rim lol. anyways i just spoke to the guy who sold me the rims and he told me that he had tokico with skunk2 coils with those rims. he had a friend who had koni yellows and he told me that the ride in the koni are much better then tokico. so as of right now, i am still on GC with koni's until i found something else better in my price range.
Originally Posted by Asahi
That is so wrong . . .
1st, camber serves a pupose even on the street. you think handling physics change just because the car went from the race track to the street? Camber has nothing to do with speed but everything to do with lateral G's which you can see at 15 mph. You don't drive that slow on the street do you?
2nd, and this is the most IMPORTANT thing to REMEMBER, CAMBER DOES NOT WEAR TIRES, TOE DOES! Sure -3 degrees of camber will wear out a tire quicker but the -1.5 to -2 degrees of camber we see is not a tire wear issue. Toe on the other hand is what will wear a tire. Toe in the front should be set slightly out on each wheel while set to ZERO in the rear. As a side note we have NO camber adjustment in stock form. You can add a kit but you are often doing yourself a disservice by removing negative camber. An integra handles best with about -1.5 to -2 degrees of camber and you can even vary the rear so that there is less negative camber in the rear of the car to help with oversteer.
Trust me on the camber wear issue. I run -2.25 degrees camber Front, -1.4 degrees camber rear, 1/8" total toe out in the front and Zero Toe in the rear. This setup has me well over 20,000 miles on my ES100's with no adverse or uneven wear and several miles left on them.
1st, camber serves a pupose even on the street. you think handling physics change just because the car went from the race track to the street? Camber has nothing to do with speed but everything to do with lateral G's which you can see at 15 mph. You don't drive that slow on the street do you?
2nd, and this is the most IMPORTANT thing to REMEMBER, CAMBER DOES NOT WEAR TIRES, TOE DOES! Sure -3 degrees of camber will wear out a tire quicker but the -1.5 to -2 degrees of camber we see is not a tire wear issue. Toe on the other hand is what will wear a tire. Toe in the front should be set slightly out on each wheel while set to ZERO in the rear. As a side note we have NO camber adjustment in stock form. You can add a kit but you are often doing yourself a disservice by removing negative camber. An integra handles best with about -1.5 to -2 degrees of camber and you can even vary the rear so that there is less negative camber in the rear of the car to help with oversteer.
Trust me on the camber wear issue. I run -2.25 degrees camber Front, -1.4 degrees camber rear, 1/8" total toe out in the front and Zero Toe in the rear. This setup has me well over 20,000 miles on my ES100's with no adverse or uneven wear and several miles left on them.
Read the previous posts and you will see where I mentioned caster camber plates........I realize there is no camber adjustment from the factory, nor is there on most cars.
Originally Posted by RookieIntegra
alright i just recieve my rims, however i am still short of one rim lol. anyways i just spoke to the guy who sold me the rims and he told me that he had tokico with skunk2 coils with those rims. he had a friend who had koni yellows and he told me that the ride in the koni are much better then tokico. so as of right now, i am still on GC with koni's until i found something else better in my price range.
Originally Posted by Fast-Ford
Funny thing, I know several guys who have camber plates who ran about -2 degrees and the inside of the front tire wore quicker after 55,000 KMS. It was noticable, but this was a long time period. Sure, you can run some negative camber, but it will wear faster than a ZERO setting. But hey, if that bit of wear doesn't bother you then a few degrees of camber will certainly be of bennefit.
Read the previous posts and you will see where I mentioned caster camber plates........I realize there is no camber adjustment from the factory, nor is there on most cars.
Read the previous posts and you will see where I mentioned caster camber plates........I realize there is no camber adjustment from the factory, nor is there on most cars.
No Caster Camber plates for Hondas. We have Camber adustable kits but caster is set in stone unless you want to bend parts.
thanks for all you guys help, all the input was very helpful!
everything is pretty much set to go besides that now i am short one rim. the place that was going to sell my just one rim are not going to sell it to me anymore, althought they told me on the phone they would 2 weeks ago.
that was the main reason i only get 3 ( used from another teg member on ti). so if you guys know any1 with leftover oz volcano 17s let me know, so i can finally mount them on. they are just sitting in my room right now
thanks again everyone :cheers:
everything is pretty much set to go besides that now i am short one rim. the place that was going to sell my just one rim are not going to sell it to me anymore, althought they told me on the phone they would 2 weeks ago.
that was the main reason i only get 3 ( used from another teg member on ti). so if you guys know any1 with leftover oz volcano 17s let me know, so i can finally mount them on. they are just sitting in my room right now
thanks again everyone :cheers:


