Have fun trying to run 20lbs and a 50 shot on a stock motor and getting it to last more than half a pass down the track.

 

Not difficult if you get the right setup. A stand alone or add on ECU management system would be in order(you could use a VAFC for rough tuning) but I would recommend a Hondata s200 or AEM management system. I personally know of a person running 12.5:1 CR on 93 pump gas and not have a problem what so ever. He is running this on a CRVTEC with pistons and eagle rods.

As for nitrous, listen to everyone when they say to go with a direct port kit above 75. I have seen what can and usually does happen to a car running a fogger system above 75.

 

Dubsta is my nitrous hero. ;-)

Harry

 

That red EG wasn't stock, it was sleeved...
but even so, 20 psi is pushing it.

 

The car that runs the quicker ET will be faster. That's about all you can say on the matter, everything else is idle speculation.

 

I find that nitrous cars which pass as fast as turbo cars, don't usually mph as high. Also, I double checked, it wasn't sleeved, it was BlockGuarded, other than that, internals were stock, and other than the turbo setup, some cam gears, and stage 4 hondata, everything appeared to be stock. A pretty proud tuner claim for an 11 second car!

 

I thought a wet system was when each cylinder had it's own nitrous injector and a dry system was when a single injector was mut on the intake tube. My question is: What's the difference between a wet system and a directport system?? thanks

 

Dry kit - nozzle in intake tube spraying only nitrous
Single fogger wet kit - nozzle in intake tube spraying nitrous and fuel "fog"
Direct port kit - each intake runner has it's own nozzle spraying fuel and nitrous "fog"

 

So a direct port nos fogger kit would be the best. I just wanted to say Direct Port Naws Fogger Kit....
A good way to spend ten thousand dollars
2 g buyout, winner takes all!