livelyjay

wow, i've got a lot of crap to learn before i start toying around with the B16 engine i have yet to get. what is this "Weber" thing people keep referring to?

rev

yep, definitely not the best for street use.

inspyral

Weber carburators. You generally don't want to convert a fuel injected engine to carbs. You can, however, run induvidual throttle bodies.

ferrealb16

qtiger, i partially disagree. you need to port a head to get a good flow from it, and you want to hog it out, reasonably. with a pr3 head you want to look at the intake ports and port up, down, right and left. knife edge the divide, and continue to port all the way down to the valve seat. do not polish extensively tho, that will decrease atomization. on the exhaust port, you want to keep them narrow for velocity. so clean them up, knock the casting out, knife edge, and polish the heck out of them for improved flow. then your gonna take that head to the head shop with larger valves and your going to ask for 2 things-larger valve seats obviously and a radius valve job. now there is a site called ericksracing.com, dont listen to a thing on that site. he says there is no need for more than 3 cuts, but he must be a crack smoker. common sense will tell you 3 cuts is better than 1, 5 cuts is better than 3, and 7 cuts polished to a perfect radius is better than 5. qtiger i agree that matching is as important as porting/polishing a head. all of the portwork you can do serves little to no purpose if the intake charge does not have a direct path to those smooth ports you spent good money on.

and for a valve train i suggest nothing less than ferrea, and ferrea is the best, so that leaves you with one good option-Ferrea. their valves have been micro polished and rolled to increase flow, the tips have been hardened. that black nitride coating you see on bunk2 (skunk2) valves is only there to make the buyer feel as tho he/she is gettin a deal.

1stGenCRXer

You're obviously from the "more is better" crowd, in which case I would have to say you have a lot to learn.

Knife edging and severe material removal in a head, ANY head shortens the life severely, as well as introduces several unwanted side effects. First, low RPM flow and idle quality suffers. Intake velocity, intake velocity, and intake velocity, are what helps optimum dispersion of the fuel in the cylinder for best combustion [and consequently best power]. Volumetric Efficiency is second to intake velocity, and at the same time, the two are so closely related you'd think they were two west virginia families. [no offense you WV people ] After you've resigned yourself to your lopey idle and slow transition from idle, you have the issue of keeping your intake velocity high at WOT. True, a larger hole has a higher potential to flow more air, but if the flow is so slow you're relying on a hack-job P&P to mix the fuel in the air, you still have issues. Ideally you want the largest hole you can flow with the least drop in intake velocity [see a theme?]. At the same time, this isn't possible with most street-driven properly-prepared engines [ITB's, cams, the works, none of this aftermarket IM and "bigger TB" half-assing]. That said, most street engines find a happy life somewhere in the middle, a mild port job, and a full port matching, allowing for a smooth idle, yet increased flow capacity.

Now, as for this "7 angle valve seat". There is absolutely no need for this, and here's why. The more cuts you make, the thinner the sealing area is going to be. On a race engine, this is no problem, but on a streetable engine [which is what we build in here, street driven engines] as soon as you start getting any wear on the valve guide [which is accelerated if you remove a lot of the material from the valve guide like is done on an all-out port job], the valve will beat up the seat and eliminate it's ability to seal, increasing you percentage of leakdown, costing power, yadda yadda... This effect is more severe the more cuts there are since the angles are shallower, yet there are more edges. On the other side of the coin, the more cuts you have the better the valve is aerodynamically, which helps your VE. The most aerodynamic valve shape would be a semi-spherical seat, but then you get the pistol and mortar effect [remember chemistry class?]. Again, there has to be a compromise between longevity and efficiency.

As for polishing a port, you do NOT want something that looks like it came off a frat-boy's bathroom floor, but at the same time, you don't want it looking like grandma's marble counter top either. The latter promotes laminar flow which doesn't bode well for even fuel dispersion, and the former promotes so much turbulence that you actually get worse flow than if it were mirror-polished. Again, somewhere in the middle is good.

Finally, there's no question Ferrea makes quality parts. The simple truth is that it's hard to swallow the price, especially when 99% of engine builders are not trying to get 150%. For all-out racing applications, your suggestions hold a bit more water, but for street driving, even I have to call it overkill.

qtiger

I would think about the fact that he drives the fastest all motor Honda in the world a couple of times before calling him an idiot.

aut0tek

Harry, you fawking bish. :fawk:

-Harry (lol that's kinda funny... we got the same first name... And since I live in WV, there are a lot of people with my last name too. NOT. fawker :madfawk: )

p'sH23Acoord

The best "Porting" that you can have done is by Extrudahone. It is a process by which a play-doo like substance (reinforced with a gritty substance)forced by extreme pressure throught the throttle body,intake runners, and combustion chamber. Thus giving you a better porting job then any human can preform.

1stGenCRXer

LOL, I really couldn't think of anyone from WV when I wrote that, just thought it was funny anyways, no harm no foul though

rev

1st gen is definitely on the right track. Does the Ferrea guy work there? If so he should know a few basics about 4 valve ports. One thing you do NOT want to do is knife edge the divider on the intake runner. It flows better when bull-nosed on the intake and knife edged on the exhaust - just like a plane rudder or a well prepped crankshaft. As for the valve job, if you'll study up a bit on your Bernoulli and do some testing you'll see that the air can't tell the difference between a radius and any number of angles under 15* difference between them so a radius valve job is typically no better than a good 3-5 angle valve job. Frankly, I don't see how you can run even a CORRECT 5 angle valve job on stock seats and get the right amount of space on the bottom cuts without going off the inside of the seat. Also keep in mind when talking about a 5-7 angle valve job how big the flats between the angles are going to be for optimal performance and the amount of space you need for the outer edge of the seat as well as keeping the seat height correct as well as keeping the venturi under the seat the appropriate size. Wait a minute nobody has mentioned the venturi yet...It's only one of the most important parts of the port besides the valve job so I can see why it gets missed (that must be because it is already too big from the factory)...BTW, I too love the Ferrea valves and have them on my own engine, but there are some great valves available from Kibblewhite and Manley. If I'm not mistaken there is some no-namer (Lisa Kubo I think was her name) running the Kibblewhite valves and seems to perform OK.