qtiger, i partially disagree. you need to port a head to get a good flow from it, and you want to hog it out, reasonably. with a pr3 head you want to look at the intake ports and port up, down, right and left. knife edge the divide, and continue to port all the way down to the valve seat. do not polish extensively tho, that will decrease atomization. on the exhaust port, you want to keep them narrow for velocity. so clean them up, knock the casting out, knife edge, and polish the heck out of them for improved flow. then your gonna take that head to the head shop with larger valves and your going to ask for 2 things-larger valve seats obviously and a radius valve job. now there is a site called ericksracing.com, dont listen to a thing on that site. he says there is no need for more than 3 cuts, but he must be a crack smoker. common sense will tell you 3 cuts is better than 1, 5 cuts is better than 3, and 7 cuts polished to a perfect radius is better than 5. qtiger i agree that matching is as important as porting/polishing a head. all of the portwork you can do serves little to no purpose if the intake charge does not have a direct path to those smooth ports you spent good money on.

and for a valve train i suggest nothing less than ferrea, and ferrea is the best, so that leaves you with one good option-Ferrea. their valves have been micro polished and rolled to increase flow, the tips have been hardened. that black nitride coating you see on bunk2 (skunk2) valves is only there to make the buyer feel as tho he/she is gettin a deal.