Motor Builders! Your opinions please?
#22
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HEY!!! Common, give the man some credit! They both have the letter B in the engine code! :rofl:
Anywho, back to the origin of the post. We were discusing the motor swap I am saving for. I just finished puting together a 350 for my brothers 1943 mercedes Its gonna be one helluva sleeper after we get it in ther!
Anywho, back to the origin of the post. We were discusing the motor swap I am saving for. I just finished puting together a 350 for my brothers 1943 mercedes Its gonna be one helluva sleeper after we get it in ther!
#23
been there done that
#24
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Thanks snoopy. Ill be sure to look into that site Your a great help.
Also... Do you know a good place to look at motor pricing? I was wondering how much a B20Z would be IF I ordered it straight from honda? Know of anyone doing this before?
Also... Do you know a good place to look at motor pricing? I was wondering how much a B20Z would be IF I ordered it straight from honda? Know of anyone doing this before?
#26
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Originally posted by redheat86
in my opinion you should either build a decent b20 vtec.. 12:1 compression, ctr cams, b16 head with itr intake manifold and 64mm tbody. this simple build could cost about 4k-4500 for everyhting.. eagle rods, je pistons.. i can bet this would put down about 200-210 with out revving the pis out of it..maybe 8500 tops.. or you go just go ahead and do a straight up b18 or even b20 and boost it generously with hondata or a zdyne ecu and pump a decent amount of power... i have had experiance with the b16 in a 92 dx, h22a in a 97ek hatch, built b20 setup as mentioned above in a 92cx minus the itr intake manifold and tbody and it ran 13.00 at 103 with 186 whp on pump gas.
in my opinion you should either build a decent b20 vtec.. 12:1 compression, ctr cams, b16 head with itr intake manifold and 64mm tbody. this simple build could cost about 4k-4500 for everyhting.. eagle rods, je pistons.. i can bet this would put down about 200-210 with out revving the pis out of it..maybe 8500 tops.. or you go just go ahead and do a straight up b18 or even b20 and boost it generously with hondata or a zdyne ecu and pump a decent amount of power... i have had experiance with the b16 in a 92 dx, h22a in a 97ek hatch, built b20 setup as mentioned above in a 92cx minus the itr intake manifold and tbody and it ran 13.00 at 103 with 186 whp on pump gas.
Originally posted by redheat86
OMFG this post is going no where... a b20 is the same as a b18..if your gona want to get anywhere go with a b18, be it a, b or even c, the b20 is the sameas a b18...the MOTOR does not matter whether its from an obd1 or 2 car... ok? just use a zdyne ecu or a pms to tune it... you then dont need a gas tank sensor..
OMFG this post is going no where... a b20 is the same as a b18..if your gona want to get anywhere go with a b18, be it a, b or even c, the b20 is the sameas a b18...the MOTOR does not matter whether its from an obd1 or 2 car... ok? just use a zdyne ecu or a pms to tune it... you then dont need a gas tank sensor..
#27
as far as i can remember a b20 is primarily a b18, with either a bigger bore, or bigger stroke.
you'd need something big and powerful to suck the exhaust out of a motor. do you know how a combustion engine works?
intake storke
compression stroke
power stroke
exhaust stroke.
the motor uses forces from one stroke to the other help suck in more air, and exhaust more air.
other company's have tried to take the exhaust and pipie it down underneath the piston and have the piston exhaust the gases when it comes down the intake stroke.
turbos/supercharges do not do the "sucking" for the motor. they compress the air so more air gets into the combustion chamber everytime the intake valve opens.
you'd need something big and powerful to suck the exhaust out of a motor. do you know how a combustion engine works?
intake storke
compression stroke
power stroke
exhaust stroke.
the motor uses forces from one stroke to the other help suck in more air, and exhaust more air.
other company's have tried to take the exhaust and pipie it down underneath the piston and have the piston exhaust the gases when it comes down the intake stroke.
turbos/supercharges do not do the "sucking" for the motor. they compress the air so more air gets into the combustion chamber everytime the intake valve opens.
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Yes. I know... Read the post again, you will see I was actualy talking about using turbin housing with backasswards turbines hooked up cetrifugical style to suck the exuast out. I know how the "suck squish bang blow" works, I am going to sequia right now I just havent had a lot of EXP working with honda motors...
The B18 and B20 arent the same block iether, honda motors are so thin if you tried to bore it out 0.2 litres it would crack in a heartbeat However I did read that these motors crack if you put HI compression ratio pistons in them without resleaving. So there might be some truth to that. I dont know how one motor can put out so much torque and the other put out so much power all out of the same block? However looking at it from an all attribute standpoint they are two TOTALLY diferent motors.
The B18 and B20 arent the same block iether, honda motors are so thin if you tried to bore it out 0.2 litres it would crack in a heartbeat However I did read that these motors crack if you put HI compression ratio pistons in them without resleaving. So there might be some truth to that. I dont know how one motor can put out so much torque and the other put out so much power all out of the same block? However looking at it from an all attribute standpoint they are two TOTALLY diferent motors.
#29
the blocks are infact the same...the b20 has a factory sleeve job, and is bored out to 84mm. However, those sleeves are weak still.
If you want to beat Lt-1's (I dunno about Z06's) you could do it with a GsR, bolt ons, LSD and some suspension work. I start out trying to beat 5.0's first, then work your way to LT-1's, then Z06's and vipers.
If you want to beat Lt-1's (I dunno about Z06's) you could do it with a GsR, bolt ons, LSD and some suspension work. I start out trying to beat 5.0's first, then work your way to LT-1's, then Z06's and vipers.
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Thanks! Most of you have been verry helpfull... So it would be better to use a B20 and resleave it then to use a B18 right? I meen if I rebuild a B20 it has WAY higher pontential than a B18? Also what are the best sleaves to use? Were can I buy one of these motors?