Turbo running question
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 672
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From: Allentown PA, - Phila, PA
Originally Posted by 1995Civic
dude, im sorry mberndt, but you are a fucking idiot! There are experts here for a reason. that reason is to help idiots like you to have a more RELIABLE street car. tuning is not just to make the MAX amount of power, but its to make sure everything is in proper working order. There is nothing better you can do for your car than tune it. whether you have minor bolt-ons or a T3/Gt40 blowzilla .63 a/r turbo setup. You seem to be fine with it "running a little lean" so let it be. well my friend, your gonna have serious issues down the road and remember it when you blew these guys off when they provided some seriously good information to you. Youd be better off sticking your head up your exhaust pipe cuz thats where you belong. kiss my ass. Thank you to all the guys that provided good info! I found it very interesting and learned some good stuff.
ACTUALLY U LITTLE KID, I GUARANTEE I'M WAY SMARTER THAN YOU, I CAN TELL UR AN IDIOT BY THE WAY U TALK ON HERE, LOL!!
MAYBE U BETTER CHECK ON WHAT UR SAYING BEFORE U TALK SHIT....
GOD KNOWS WHERE U GOT THE "RUNNING A LITTLE LEAN" FROM,
NO WHERE ON MY POST DID I EVER SAY MY CAR RAN LEAN, I'M QUITE SURE IT RUNS RICH....
PLEASE DON'T TRY AND LECTURE ME ON HOW I'M GONNA HAVE PROBS DOWN THE ROAD, BECAUSE U KNOW JACK SHIT ABOUT ME OR MY SETUP...
IF U THINK I'M SUCH AN IDIOT, LOL, THEN COME FIND ME, I'LL BE MORE THAN HAPPY TO SET UR STUPID COCKY ASS STRAIGHT, LOL!!!
WHAT A FOOL!
I hate ricers
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 869
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From: Florida
Wow im glad you think cuz your a few years older than me, your a lot smarter than i am. Im sorry i apologize, you did say you were running a little rich. my mistake. I just got a little caught up in how ignorant you could possibly be when it comes to turbos or your own setup. I dont need to know anything about you or your setup to know that your gonna have problems, cuz your a fuckin cheapskate when it comes to doing things right. I really dont even care what you do, i was just informing you that you blew off some good people and your one to come crying to them when something happens. And about coming to find you so you can set my ass straight? I can tell your real mature. I can certainly promise you brother, you would never get anywhere fighting me. Im not even wasting my time arguing over the internet with you. go blow your car up
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jun 2005
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From: Allentown PA, - Phila, PA
Originally Posted by 1995Civic
Wow im glad you think cuz your a few years older than me, your a lot smarter than i am. Im sorry i apologize, you did say you were running a little rich. my mistake. I just got a little caught up in how ignorant you could possibly be when it comes to turbos or your own setup. I dont need to know anything about you or your setup to know that your gonna have problems, cuz your a fuckin cheapskate when it comes to doing things right. I really dont even care what you do, i was just informing you that you blew off some good people and your one to come crying to them when something happens. And about coming to find you so you can set my ass straight? I can tell your real mature. I can certainly promise you brother, you would never get anywhere fighting me. Im not even wasting my time arguing over the internet with you. go blow your car up
You started the beef here buddy, calling me a fool when u don't even know what you're talking about...
I'm not gonna waste any more time with you, and I'm not going to cry to anyone on here if my car blows up, I'll just fix it like I have before...
When exactly did I blow people off?? I'm just looking for a straight answer, not their personal opinions about what's best.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 672
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From: Allentown PA, - Phila, PA
Hey,
I appreciate the info, but I was just trying to figure out why FMU's r so bad, now I know...
I got my car tuned today...
I went to my friend's shop and he took me over to his friend who chipped my car with Uberdata...
Because i chipped it like 4 yrs ago, I was able to just plug in another burned chip, no soldering at all.
It cost me $50 bucks... Well worth it.
He walked me through the entire process, which to my amazement was quite simple... I gained ALOT of knowledge today about tuning. Also, my check engine light was completed eliminated...
Here's what he gave me:
Uberdata 256k chip
He has his own turbo B16A hatch, so he gave me his basemap.
We set ignition to 1 degree per pound of boost
Set VTEC at 4300
I'm still using my stock injectors until tomorrow or friday at the latest, and am going to upgrade to 450cc injectors
I don't need a fuel pump, so I'll save on that.
We drove the car and it ran beautifully, no more lagging below 2000 cause the distributor was set back so far...
the only thing is it started to hesitate under boost, like it was getting flooded and putting the spark out, he had the same prob until he gapped his plugs at .032
I wanna know what are the coldest plugs I can get, and what is the part number? I've looked all over and I don't know which ones to get.
Again thanks for the info
-Mike
I appreciate the info, but I was just trying to figure out why FMU's r so bad, now I know...
I got my car tuned today...
I went to my friend's shop and he took me over to his friend who chipped my car with Uberdata...
Because i chipped it like 4 yrs ago, I was able to just plug in another burned chip, no soldering at all.
It cost me $50 bucks... Well worth it.
He walked me through the entire process, which to my amazement was quite simple... I gained ALOT of knowledge today about tuning. Also, my check engine light was completed eliminated...
Here's what he gave me:
Uberdata 256k chip
He has his own turbo B16A hatch, so he gave me his basemap.
We set ignition to 1 degree per pound of boost
Set VTEC at 4300
I'm still using my stock injectors until tomorrow or friday at the latest, and am going to upgrade to 450cc injectors
I don't need a fuel pump, so I'll save on that.
We drove the car and it ran beautifully, no more lagging below 2000 cause the distributor was set back so far...
the only thing is it started to hesitate under boost, like it was getting flooded and putting the spark out, he had the same prob until he gapped his plugs at .032
I wanna know what are the coldest plugs I can get, and what is the part number? I've looked all over and I don't know which ones to get.
Again thanks for the info
-Mike
Member
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
From: Somewhere in California
Just in case you didn't already know if you have stock injectors you should not put the car into boost at all. Stock B series injectors are already maxed out and running a high duty cycle so you cant get any more fuel out of them. You can drive your car with it just keep it in vacuum and do not boost. I'm assuming you took out the FMU and are just running your turbo setup with a stock fuel pump, injectors and UD. If you boost with just that setup YOU WILL will blow your motor.
Also FYI your timing is way to conservative. You can afford to pull out just a little bit of timing at low boost. You can pull out 0.10* per psi from 0-3 psi, then from there gradually increase the amount of degree per psi you pull back. This is called a step retard, and here is a good one that you can use. By using a step retard and pulling only a little timing at low boost you improve the low boost performance of the car by not retarding or pulling timing when you dont really need to.
3 psi - 0.40* per psi
5 psi - 0.50* per psi
7 psi - 0.60* per psi
9 psi - 0.70* per psi
11 psi - 0.80* per psi
Chech out the UD forums to figure out how to set up a step retard
http://uberdata.pgmfi.org/forum/
Also FYI your timing is way to conservative. You can afford to pull out just a little bit of timing at low boost. You can pull out 0.10* per psi from 0-3 psi, then from there gradually increase the amount of degree per psi you pull back. This is called a step retard, and here is a good one that you can use. By using a step retard and pulling only a little timing at low boost you improve the low boost performance of the car by not retarding or pulling timing when you dont really need to.
3 psi - 0.40* per psi
5 psi - 0.50* per psi
7 psi - 0.60* per psi
9 psi - 0.70* per psi
11 psi - 0.80* per psi
Chech out the UD forums to figure out how to set up a step retard
http://uberdata.pgmfi.org/forum/
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 672
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From: Allentown PA, - Phila, PA
Originally Posted by BlueShadow
Just in case you didn't already know if you have stock injectors you should not put the car into boost at all. Stock B series injectors are already maxed out and running a high duty cycle so you cant get any more fuel out of them. You can drive your car with it just keep it in vacuum and do not boost. I'm assuming you took out the FMU and are just running your turbo setup with a stock fuel pump, injectors and UD. If you boost with just that setup YOU WILL will blow your motor.
Also FYI your timing is way to conservative. You can afford to pull out just a little bit of timing at low boost. You can pull out 0.10* per psi from 0-3 psi, then from there gradually increase the amount of degree per psi you pull back. This is called a step retard, and here is a good one that you can use. By using a step retard and pulling only a little timing at low boost you improve the low boost performance of the car by not retarding or pulling timing when you dont really need to.
3 psi - 0.40* per psi
5 psi - 0.50* per psi
7 psi - 0.60* per psi
9 psi - 0.70* per psi
11 psi - 0.80* per psi
Chech out the UD forums to figure out how to set up a step retard
http://uberdata.pgmfi.org/forum/
Also FYI your timing is way to conservative. You can afford to pull out just a little bit of timing at low boost. You can pull out 0.10* per psi from 0-3 psi, then from there gradually increase the amount of degree per psi you pull back. This is called a step retard, and here is a good one that you can use. By using a step retard and pulling only a little timing at low boost you improve the low boost performance of the car by not retarding or pulling timing when you dont really need to.
3 psi - 0.40* per psi
5 psi - 0.50* per psi
7 psi - 0.60* per psi
9 psi - 0.70* per psi
11 psi - 0.80* per psi
Chech out the UD forums to figure out how to set up a step retard
http://uberdata.pgmfi.org/forum/
First, I DID NOT take off my FMU yet, because without it, yes you are right I would blow the motor, I know this, that's why I left it on... I need the extra fuel pressure supplied by the FMU in boost, because again you're right, with stock fuel pressure and stock injectors, I would be running lean... I saw the whole tuning process, and the injector's duty cycle is extremely long in VTEC, like 160 ms...
He knows this is not good, and he told me that, but it WILL work for now, until either today or tomorrow, when i can put on 450cc injectors with a resistor box...
trust me, the dude knows what he's doing, he has same setup as me basically. Even the same starion FMIC.
Also, we drove it around after the tune and we made sure the A/F gauge was reading RICH the whole time in boost, and it does, it works fine...
I may be a newbie, but I definitely know how to not blow my motor!
Thanks for the info,
Mike
Member
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
From: Somewhere in California
Just wanted to make sure...you didn't mention whether the FMU was on or off. I dont think it's a good idea to run an FMU and chipped ECU setup though. When you run a chipped ECU, larger injectors and fuel pump you WANT the ECU to see boost pressure. So with this type of setup you do not use any check valves or missing links to fool the MAP sensor. With an FMU setup I believe you have to run a check valve/missing link to bleed off the boost so it doesn't get to the map sensor. You said that you'll be getting your injectors in a day or so. If you have stock injectors but are still running the FMU and check valves, then your friend should have loaded up a "stock" ecu program to your chip. Once you get your new injectors in then he can re-adjust your fuel maps to match the new injector sizes and set up a step retard. But in case you end up putting that off, the above info is good to know.
Also just FYI the duty cycles in Uberdata are off, so if you are looking at the %'s for your injectors, they can be off anywhere between 10-20% depending on where you are at in the map. The other thing you may have seen are a series of numbers, but those are just raw fuel numbers. According to some people 800-900 in the raw fuel numbers means you are close to maxing the injectors out.
This was one of the few reasons I switched from UD to Crome. Crome is a little more accurate when it comes to displaying injector duty cycles.
Also just FYI the duty cycles in Uberdata are off, so if you are looking at the %'s for your injectors, they can be off anywhere between 10-20% depending on where you are at in the map. The other thing you may have seen are a series of numbers, but those are just raw fuel numbers. According to some people 800-900 in the raw fuel numbers means you are close to maxing the injectors out.
This was one of the few reasons I switched from UD to Crome. Crome is a little more accurate when it comes to displaying injector duty cycles.
Member
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
From: Somewhere in California
Oh and one other thing, if you decide that you wanna start tuning your own car one day you should download your free copy of Uberdata and Crome. It's really not that hard...you can run it from your PC and just fidget around with all the different features. It's not hooked up to your car so you cant hurt anything.
Here is where you can find a thread on Crome. There is some pics and a link that you can download it from.
http://forum.pgmfi.org/viewtopic.php...6ab6241d525e8e
To download Uberdat for free go here:
http://uberdata.pgmfi.org/forum/
Here is where you can find a thread on Crome. There is some pics and a link that you can download it from.
http://forum.pgmfi.org/viewtopic.php...6ab6241d525e8e
To download Uberdat for free go here:
http://uberdata.pgmfi.org/forum/
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 672
Likes: 0
From: Allentown PA, - Phila, PA
Originally Posted by BlueShadow
Just wanted to make sure...you didn't mention whether the FMU was on or off. I dont think it's a good idea to run an FMU and chipped ECU setup though. When you run a chipped ECU, larger injectors and fuel pump you WANT the ECU to see boost pressure. So with this type of setup you do not use any check valves or missing links to fool the MAP sensor. With an FMU setup I believe you have to run a check valve/missing link to bleed off the boost so it doesn't get to the map sensor. You said that you'll be getting your injectors in a day or so. If you have stock injectors but are still running the FMU and check valves, then your friend should have loaded up a "stock" ecu program to your chip. Once you get your new injectors in then he can re-adjust your fuel maps to match the new injector sizes and set up a step retard. But in case you end up putting that off, the above info is good to know.
Also just FYI the duty cycles in Uberdata are off, so if you are looking at the %'s for your injectors, they can be off anywhere between 10-20% depending on where you are at in the map. The other thing you may have seen are a series of numbers, but those are just raw fuel numbers. According to some people 800-900 in the raw fuel numbers means you are close to maxing the injectors out.
This was one of the few reasons I switched from UD to Crome. Crome is a little more accurate when it comes to displaying injector duty cycles.
Also just FYI the duty cycles in Uberdata are off, so if you are looking at the %'s for your injectors, they can be off anywhere between 10-20% depending on where you are at in the map. The other thing you may have seen are a series of numbers, but those are just raw fuel numbers. According to some people 800-900 in the raw fuel numbers means you are close to maxing the injectors out.
This was one of the few reasons I switched from UD to Crome. Crome is a little more accurate when it comes to displaying injector duty cycles.
He loaded up a besemap for his car, which has 450 injectors, then switched the injector size in Uberdata, to stock 240cc injectors, which made the duty cycles real high.
I'm running an FMU just for today and tomorrow, and CAN ONLY run with the turbo program because the FMU is present.
I didn't use check valves, I bought a kit that came with a "map controller" box, which just read 0V when it saw boost. That's gone now, that the ECU can SEE boost...
As for the step retard... I have a real high C/R so I don;t wanna be running on the absolute edge of detonation, I'd rather be running 1deg /# of boost to err on the safe side.... Thanks for the info, but regardless of what u guys say, I'm not gonna use a lower value or step retard, cause plainly I don't want to, after all it's my choice.
Also, thanks for the info about Uberdata, Ill keep u guys posted.
-Mike
Member
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
From: Somewhere in California
The good thing about a step retard is you can set it up to the level you want. You can set it up to be aggressive or conservative. My numbers were just an example. If you wanted you could use 0.5 per psi from 0-3 psi, 0.75 from 4-8 psi, and 1 per psi from 9-10. 1 degree per psi is fine too but a lot of people will tell you that is it very very conservative. I only suggested a step retard because it will improve your low boost performance.