what would it take to make me safe to 8200 with a b18b block. Things that I have already done...
9.0 je/srp pistons
eagle H-beam rods(w/ arp rod bolt)
gs-r rod stroke(gs-r crank and rods)
the pistons are meant for vtec already.

 

That block is perfectly fine for 8200 and higher.

 

Wait, you have eagle H-beam rods, but you have Gs-r rod stroke, with a gsr crank and rods??? Which rods do you have. I wouldn't rev a b18b to 8200, with out ARP head studs. After that, figure out your r/s by finding your "h beam/gs-r rod legth" and dividing it by the GSR stroke. I haven't a clue what that would be off the top of my head.

Also what do you mean the pistons are meant for VTEC already??? :thinking:

Honda tuning just had a project where they built a 13 sec integra with a b20 bottom end. They reved it to 8k and spun a bearing, that=not good.

 

I assume he's running GSR length rods with a GSR crank, which would create an OEM GSR r/s ratio of 1.58:1. And I assume what he means about the pistons meant for VTEC, is that the valve reliefs are cut specifically for a VTEC head. OEM VTEC head studs can stand well in excess of 8200 rpm...so I don't really understand your thinking there...it's not like he's boosted and creating super high cylinder pressures where the head could separate from the block.

 

lets see if u have a LS block but gsr crank and gsr lenth rods its now a Gsr block with out the oil squirters. and since u have 9 to 1 if u dont boost it id be able to beat u in my moms corrolla. the LS crank is what makes it "LS"/Vtec. u made a pointless motor. and i hope u have a ITR or at least a GSR oil pump, if not that bitch wil be done in about 500 miles. START OVER

 

In a very basic sense.Actually, it's the block that makes it an LS/VTEC. What he did was a very wise thing to do, since the B18C guts are much more rev stable (1.58:1) then the stock A/B guts (1.52:1). Only 37cc was lost in the process, a very fair trade.

Not to mention the fact that B18A/B blocks sell for about $500 cheaper then B18C blocks.

 

lol i havent built the motor yet. I was thinking of getting the ls rod stroke back but i am thinking boost is in the picture maybe, but if not then im gonna go with ctr pistons. It is a process that is not near finished but will be completed this summer, about mid summer.
thanks for the input guys, keep it comming.

 

Actually it's 1.54:1 for the B18A/B blocks. The reason they are more rev stable is not the R/S ratio as much as the rod bolts. The OEM LS/B20 rod bolts are pretty weak and can't handle very high of an RPM. I've seen OEM LS rods with ARP rod bolts rev to 9500 with an OEM crank girdle, and OEM LS crank. Also, the GSR/ITR both have the OEM crank girdle, which helps in high rpm stability. .04:1 of a difference in R/S ratio won't change a whole lit in terms of revability of a motor.

 

well just how much does it change in torque. I see that the gs-r rods/crank setup to be more stable then the ls setup but if you think that it is worth it to buy new rods and pistons and put my ls crank back in, then I will. The reason why I have the gs-r setup in there now is because my original plans for the motor was turbo and with the better r/s ratio, i would theoretically be able to handle a few more pounds and on top of that I got the rods and pistons for a crazy deal. Let me know before I tear down for a rebuild and head swap. Where can I get a girdle setup for cheap also, How do i know that the mains that I have to replace are gonna be the same roundness as the ones that I already have. Personally, I dont think 10lbs of torque is worth like 600 bucks for new rods. So if I were to build the motor and the r/s ratio will make a great difference, then I think I would rather opt to go more powerful. Keep in mind that I will probably be running a high compression piston, i think 12.5:1 or something like that. Also I am wondering which cams inside the oem realm will give me a substantial amount of power. With this setup:
gs-r internals(h-beam rods, CTR pistons, gs-r crank)
b16a1 head (maybe port matched, depending on money)
hopefully a girdle(depending on money)
the block is already bored .020 over
and bearings have maybe 4k on them...Does anyone think that I should get any type of ecu management like Uberdata or hondata? or will an afc do just fine. Also should I use a block guard with such a high compression. I know a good bit and have my own thoughts on all of the questions, but i know that there are people out there that have more actual experience and knowlege than I and therefore have better answers for the questions. Let me know about this stuff.
thanks,
steven

 

Look at dyno sheets for a GSR vs. an LSVTEC with a similar build as you are going with....that'll show you the differences. It won't be a very big difference. As for engine management, if you're going to go 12.5:1 I'd definitely run a hondata or the like. I hope you still don't have plans for boost in the future on a compression ratio like that. As for a girdle setup, check out the z10 girdle on their site. They'll tell you the other parts that you'll need to get for it to work.