I'm not too familiar with the H22 into Accord swap but I'm assuming you'd need the engine, transmission, all associate parts, etc. I think it bolts in though with no need for custom mounts, with a certain degree of mixing and matching of Accord and Prelude parts.

The H22 swap itself is actually kind of affordable, you should be able to get a complete engine, transmission, ECU, etc, for under $2500. Figure a turbo kit such as RevHard, Drag, etc is another $3500 or so. From there to get it running nicely you'll need a Hondata s100 with boost option, and some 450 cc/min injectors. Most turbo kits have some kind of upgraded fuel pump. That's $445 for the Hondata, you can get more goodies for more money. Then injectors are like another $350 for brand new RCs. Figure about 7 grand right there for the core items.

You'll also probably need to replace wear items on the engine, and you'll need to beef up things like the clutch and everything else. Labor, I got no clue on that one. So like I said, with a total budget of 10 grand you should be able to get a reasonably well set up H22 turbo going on in there.

 

Thanks, I'm not worry abou tthe H22 part, I'm just worry about the Turbo system. I've come up with a list, But Don't know if it's okay as far as fitment + all other things, Please give me advice to what to change and add to make it better


Air Filter: K&N Universal $40
Blow-Off Valve: Tial 50mm Blow-Off Valve Silver $225
Downpipe: DRAG 2.5" Downpipe $195
Piping Kit: DRAG Chrome Piping Kit 94-97 Accord H22A $450
Fuel Injectors: RC Engineering 440cc Saturated $285
Fuel Management: Vortech Standard FMU 12:1 $150
Fuel Pump: Airtex 400hp In-Line $150
Intercooler: DRAG Polished Front Mount Intercooler 94-97 Accord 27"x7"x2.5" $450
Turbocharger: Precision SC61 - 680hp $725
Wastegate: Tial 38mm Wastegate 0.5 Bar (7 psi) $210

I think I'm missing a few.

Thanks

 

You need peak/hold type injectors, not saturated. You may also want to run 550 cc/min.

Ditch the FMU. You can't run high flow injectors with only an FMU. You will run insanely rich off boost. You want an electronic way to dial in the fuel. That means at the very least a VAFC, preferably a Hondata or AEM EMS.

An in-tank pump would be preferable to an in-line one. I believe Holley part number 12-916 will fit even though they don't list it on their site.

I've never heard of this "Precision Precision SC61" turbo. Ideally for an H22 you want to run something along the lines of a T3/TO4E 60 trim, or a Garrett GT30R. Most turbo kits (if you decide not to piece one together) don't use a turbo of that size, most of them have a T3/TO4E 57 trim which will work reasonably well.

There's also a bunch of things you haven't listed such as oil lines, couplings, vacuum lines, etc that you will have to piece together.

 

blow off valve: why not just a 1G DSM bov? they are good to like 18 psi stock..

FMU - why??? S-AFC or V-AFC at LEAST

Downpipe/chargepipes - why not make your own for 1/10 of the price if you know of a welder to use?

intercooler - i'll search for the $190/$210 FMIC shipped here shortly for you.

EDIT: Intercoolers - www.johnnyracecar.com

fuel pump - just get a walboro 255lph fuel pump (intank)

oil lines - www.homemadeturbo.com stealthmode has a good oil line kit for i believe $70 shipped??

also that forum will help you know what you really need.. or unless you wanna go for prettiness then go ahead and spend 10x more the money.. its totally up to you.

EDIT: the SC61 is the one Jkan had on his civic for a little bit i believe.

 

Thanks Both Mike and Zivi. Those are some super duper helpful info.

So Now I know that I need to:

Ditch the FMU and go for Hondata or AEM EMS. Which one is better?

Pipping: Custom Job, but I really need someone with good measurement skills to do it

Intercooler: JouhnyRacecar.com only has the 6" as maximum, will it hold well?

Fuel Pump: I need an Intank, either holley's part or Walbro's

Turbocharger: Should I stick with SC61 since I've heard from people it's better if I decided to go for all upgrade later on after upgrading the H22's Internals? Or should I stay with T03/T04E?

If I Should go withthe SC61, then what's A/R Ratio should I choose between: .48 and and .63. Also it comes with 3 different turbine specs:

a. Wheel Style: T350 Wheel Style / Wheel Trim: 76
b. Wheel Style: T04 Wheel Style / Wheel Trim: 69
c. Wheel Style: T04 Wheel Style / Wheel Trim: 76


Which one should I choose?

Again, thanks everyone. I think i'll look into that book called maximum boost that everyone at homemadeturbo's talking about.

 

If you're not going to be tuning the car yourself you might as well get a lower-level Hondata since it will save you a ton of money and is still suitable.

The Holley and Walbro pumps are identical. You can get the Holley "version" for $169 from Summit Racing.

I did some looking around about the SC61 and given the specified trims of the compressor it looks to be too much for a street H22 application. You won't hit its peak efficiency at all.

The best turbo options for a street H22 are either a Garrett GT28RS or GT30R. The GT28RS spools up quicker but gives up about 20 peak hp to the GT30R at the same boost level. Granted both of these turbos are over $1300 so I dunno if you wanna drop that kind of bank.

Something with a TO4E 60 trim compressor wheel will be about as good as you can get for cheap, and a TO4E 57 trim will work reasonably well also. I can't really comment on this SC61 without seeing a compressor map but from the specs I can't see it offering much of an advantage over a regular T3/TO4E, which can be had for about $200 less.

 

Thanks Mike, I did some looking into that SC61 too and found that to be over extreme for me. I mean, I don't want to build a RACE car, but a resonable fast car, so therefore, I'll definitely look into your recommendation of the T3/T04E since it's the original Idea i came up with until this guy changed my mind about the sc61.

About the hondata, I'm a little bit confused, I know that before the car is drivable, it needs a lot of tunning. Did you mean that if I'll be doing the tunning myself, I'd need a lower level, and if someone tune it for me, I'd need a higher level?

Also, thanks for the fuel pump explaination. I'll stick with it since it seem to be a lot cheaper at summit than other places.

thanks again.

 

what are the differences between the two?

 

Hondata's pricing structure is set up so that you can either buy just the ECU and have a shop tune it for you, or you can buy all the equipment needed to tune the thing and do it yourself. Either way you're going to need a dyno to tune the thing. As long as you're sort of close to a shop that has the equipment to tune the Hondata and you're not planning on tweaking it yourself, you can just skip buying the extra stuff.

As for the injectors I always get the two mixed up. Basically the difference is in impedance. Saturated are high impedance and peak/hold are low impedance. Hondas actually need need a high impedance injector. Older Hondas use peak/hold (low impedance) with a resistor pack. Hondas from '92 or newer use saturated (high impedance) with no resistor pack. You can run peak/hold on a '92-up Honda with a resistor pack from an older car but there's no point unless you are trying to run the 450 cc/min injectors from a turbo DSM which just so happen to be peak/hold. So yeah if you're buying brand new injectors, you want saturated ones.

 

Thanks, I'm still learning into the turbo parts, i still have 6-8 months to do the project.

One question, will my goal high (12-13s) can accomplish with a stock internals and it'll run fine as a daily without any wear or damanges, or do i have some internal work as well?