DIY 6th gen Civic suspension
#11
WRX cuz Honda won't wagon
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Ok, I got an alignement done. I was quite surprised at how bad the camber must have been on my rear wheel. Even WITH 1 washer space at the rear, I still had -1.4 deg camber! It must have been really outta spec with no washer.
Because of the change in height, the entire geometry of the suspension changes, so every wheel of mine had out of spec toe... the worst kind for tire wear. Here's what happened to me:
________________________________Left___Left____Rig ht___Right
____________________Spec_______actual__before__act ual__before__actual__before
FRONT
________Camber___-1.0_to_1.0____-0.6____-0.6____-0.6____-0.6
________Caster___0.7_to_2.7_____1.4_____1.4_____1. 2_____1.2
___________Toe__-0.04_to_0.12___0.06___-0.18____0.06___-0.02
__Cross_Camber_none_specified_____________________ ______________0.0_____0.0
__Cross_Caster_none_specified_____________________ ______________0.1_____0.1
_____Total_Toe__-0.08_to_0.24___________________________________0.1 2___-0.20
REAR
________Camber___-2.0_to_0.0____-1.5____-1.4____-1.4____-1.4
___________Toe__0.04_to_0.16____0.12____0.31____0. 11____0.24
_____Total_Toe__0.08_to_0.32______________________ ______________0.23____0.55
__Thrust_Angle_none_specified_____________________ ______________0.01____0.04
Because of the change in height, the entire geometry of the suspension changes, so every wheel of mine had out of spec toe... the worst kind for tire wear. Here's what happened to me:
________________________________Left___Left____Rig ht___Right
____________________Spec_______actual__before__act ual__before__actual__before
FRONT
________Camber___-1.0_to_1.0____-0.6____-0.6____-0.6____-0.6
________Caster___0.7_to_2.7_____1.4_____1.4_____1. 2_____1.2
___________Toe__-0.04_to_0.12___0.06___-0.18____0.06___-0.02
__Cross_Camber_none_specified_____________________ ______________0.0_____0.0
__Cross_Caster_none_specified_____________________ ______________0.1_____0.1
_____Total_Toe__-0.08_to_0.24___________________________________0.1 2___-0.20
REAR
________Camber___-2.0_to_0.0____-1.5____-1.4____-1.4____-1.4
___________Toe__0.04_to_0.16____0.12____0.31____0. 11____0.24
_____Total_Toe__0.08_to_0.32______________________ ______________0.23____0.55
__Thrust_Angle_none_specified_____________________ ______________0.01____0.04
#12
WRX cuz Honda won't wagon
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I just wanted to warn people about something. The way Honda designed the rear suspension on the 6th gen (and 5th gen) puts stress on the main rubber bushing in the rear trailing arm. (See picture with yellow circle... that's the main rear trailing arm bushing).
This bushing was set in the trailing arm assuming STOCK height. When you lower the car, the trailing arm must rotate a bit for the shorter height which stresses this bushing. From the bushing's perspective, it thinks that the stock spring is compressed to your new height. So, when the rest of the suspension with your lowered spring is at rest, this bushing is stressed. Obviously the lower you go, the more stress it has.
I have 106k miles on my car with stock bushings andwith 16k miles on my 0.75" drop, my bushings are starting to rip. These bushings are responsible for rear stability so you should check yours. If you had the bushings re-set for your new ride height (and NO ONE does this unless you specifically ask for it) or replaced with urethane bushings then you probably won't have to worry about this.
This bushing is the reason it's hard to get the bolts to line up.
This bushing was set in the trailing arm assuming STOCK height. When you lower the car, the trailing arm must rotate a bit for the shorter height which stresses this bushing. From the bushing's perspective, it thinks that the stock spring is compressed to your new height. So, when the rest of the suspension with your lowered spring is at rest, this bushing is stressed. Obviously the lower you go, the more stress it has.
I have 106k miles on my car with stock bushings andwith 16k miles on my 0.75" drop, my bushings are starting to rip. These bushings are responsible for rear stability so you should check yours. If you had the bushings re-set for your new ride height (and NO ONE does this unless you specifically ask for it) or replaced with urethane bushings then you probably won't have to worry about this.
This bushing is the reason it's hard to get the bolts to line up.
#14
Originally Posted by XCM828
Great DIY. Great Pics. Great job. Please continue. Just one question:
Is it safe to do this? The owners manual and all sorts of other manuals say only to use the jacking points by the wheels otherwise bad stuff will happen. I've heard horror stories of peoples frames getting bent cuz the jacked up their cars wrong.
Is it safe to do this? The owners manual and all sorts of other manuals say only to use the jacking points by the wheels otherwise bad stuff will happen. I've heard horror stories of peoples frames getting bent cuz the jacked up their cars wrong.
for the rear, you DO jack it up from the toe hook which is reinforced. it's located dead center.
by the way, nice write up.. nice pics too.. i kept getting caught up so i miss a few pics from time to time.
http://syclone.motocrew.com/EJ6/suspension.htm
#16
I agree, great write up... Even though i've already dropped my civic, it was still a good read.
The only thing that was left out that i could see was in the washer alignment part:
If and when you need to replace the bolts (if your drop is so significant that there will be too much washer and not enough thread,) make sure the bolts you are replacing the stock ones with are of the proper strength rating; i think 'grade 8' is strong enough, but i might be mistaken so don't quote me on it. Those bolts have a significant degree of stress/force on them (as does anything suspension related) , so you don't want them to be your only weak link.
other than that, great write up again.
The only thing that was left out that i could see was in the washer alignment part:
If and when you need to replace the bolts (if your drop is so significant that there will be too much washer and not enough thread,) make sure the bolts you are replacing the stock ones with are of the proper strength rating; i think 'grade 8' is strong enough, but i might be mistaken so don't quote me on it. Those bolts have a significant degree of stress/force on them (as does anything suspension related) , so you don't want them to be your only weak link.
other than that, great write up again.