DIY 6th gen Civic suspension
I don't have the car anymore... but seriously you just bolt it up. Connect the endlinks to the bar while the bar is off the car, the bolt the mounts of the bar to the chassis, then the endlinks to the control arms. Easy.
If you don't want to use a spring compressor, then you should use the "leave the top hat bolted to the car and jack the knuckle/arm" method. If I had to do this again, I think I go this route as I think it keeps things aligned better.
I don't have access to air tools, so I was just curious about loosening bolts.
Could I loosen the top bolts before I jack up the car? I don't know how tight these bolts would be and I don't know if I want to be trying to break bolts loose inside the car while it's up in the air.
Could I loosen the top bolts before I jack up the car? I don't know how tight these bolts would be and I don't know if I want to be trying to break bolts loose inside the car while it's up in the air.
I don't have access to air tools, so I was just curious about loosening bolts.
Could I loosen the top bolts before I jack up the car? I don't know how tight these bolts would be and I don't know if I want to be trying to break bolts loose inside the car while it's up in the air.
Could I loosen the top bolts before I jack up the car? I don't know how tight these bolts would be and I don't know if I want to be trying to break bolts loose inside the car while it's up in the air.
-Luke
Thanks, I appreciate the help. I'm gonna try and tackle changing out my suspension myself. The rear seems really simple. From what I gather, it seems like three bolts (maybe four) to remove the entire shock/strut from the car.
both front and rears are VERY easy. two bolts on top, two bolts on the bottom. the problem is rust, depending on where you live.
i just installed my koni/gc setup. very happy with the quality of the parts. very unhappy with the total lack of shock travel at any decent amount of lowering. time for some modifications (top hats, fork trick)
-Luke
i just installed my koni/gc setup. very happy with the quality of the parts. very unhappy with the total lack of shock travel at any decent amount of lowering. time for some modifications (top hats, fork trick)
-Luke
both front and rears are VERY easy. two bolts on top, two bolts on the bottom. the problem is rust, depending on where you live.
i just installed my koni/gc setup. very happy with the quality of the parts. very unhappy with the total lack of shock travel at any decent amount of lowering. time for some modifications (top hats, fork trick)
-Luke
i just installed my koni/gc setup. very happy with the quality of the parts. very unhappy with the total lack of shock travel at any decent amount of lowering. time for some modifications (top hats, fork trick)
-Luke
Reason I ask is because I just had an alignment done to the car after I got the P/S rack installed about a month ago and was wondering if I need another one after I install my own suspension.
rule of thumb is yes.
i sort of skipped that on the last suspension install but even daily driven i really didn't notice any out of alignment for the few years i had that setup. even camber wear was on the mild side. i should take it in and have it done this time for safe measure, also need to get the tires rebalanced(my calipers didn't clear the wheel weights :P )
-Luke
i sort of skipped that on the last suspension install but even daily driven i really didn't notice any out of alignment for the few years i had that setup. even camber wear was on the mild side. i should take it in and have it done this time for safe measure, also need to get the tires rebalanced(my calipers didn't clear the wheel weights :P )
-Luke


