I think they are warped, If the steering wheel shakes when you step on the brakes it is not normal. You could take off your front wheels and use a dial indicator to measure the rotor disc out of round. If it's over like a couple thousands it's bad and needs to be refinished on the car with a on the car lathe. this will true the rotors to the wheel hub and eliminate the problem.

 

Well I had my front brakes resurfaced and rears resurfaced at like 30k then had my fronts replaced at around 70-80k. The thing is, when I hit the brakes at high speeds the entire car shakes, not just the wheel. Could my rears be warped?

 

Hondatech-thanks quote:

Yes, they are blowing me off, but it is Honda Ameriaca, not my dealer. Runout measured .001 inch. The rotors are not warped. If they resurface, and replace the pads with the same oem pads, the trouble will return, but now my rotors are thinner. I drive my Hondas for extreemely high mileage. Just sold my 95 V6 with 235,000 miles. I never replaced the rotors on that car. I do not want to have several resurfaces due to poor pads and then have to replace the rotors.

My plan is to buy aftermarket pads as soon as some become available, then have the rotors resurfaced once.

What do you think of that plan? I am I being too concerned about loss of rotor material with a resurfacing at the dealer? How many times can a rotor be resurfaced? My dealer uses the machine that resurfaces on the car.

Thanks for your professional opinion!

 

pontiacs do the same thing.... it the abs i guess... it seems more disturbing then comforting that i have abs :-/

 

Again..... IT'S NOT THE ABS!!!!

 

Right, if you think it's the ABS, then you haven't ever engaged the ABS system.

I would recommend testing it your ABS on an empty road, to that it doesn't scare the crap out of you when you have an emergency.

Just drive 45 mph or so and slam the brakes to the floor. Sounds like dwarves hitting your brakes with hammers, and the pedal really sends a powerful pulse. Far more violent like this judder we are discussing.

Try it!

 

I would not use aftermarket brakes at all, Honda pads are soft so they don't warp rotors. If you are under warrenty go warp the rotors on purpose and take it in again. Try a bunch of high speed pedal buryin's. Then when they are red hot, get a hose and spary cool water on them. They will warp hella bad. Then go complain. Make sure they use an on the car lathe, factory pads and torque you wheels correctly(with a torque wrench, not a torque stick). Doing an on the car refinish doesn't take as much off as you think. Plus honda's on car lathe doesn't take much off anyways. Old ammco bench lathes will take off like ten thousands at a time if you let it. The honda one will do about half of that. any more than 1 or 2 thousands is overkill. You want to cut a little and real slow to make a nice noise free cut. I think that cheaper materials and harder pads are causing these problems. I don't know if you noticed but company's are trying to sell new cars under the low maintance factor nowdays and making pads harder means they last longer. But now they eat rotors harder than before. Honda has changed to different pads on the oddessy and the newr accords once already.

 

Really? A pad compound change on the 2003 accords? Can you elaborate on when did that change happen and are the pads with the new compound in the parts supply now? I wonder if I have the new or the old compound. My car was purchased in Febraury, don't know the date of manufacture, but the dealer is very high volume ( 2nd in the USA) , and I can''t imagine a car sitting for long on his lot.

I am at 20k miles. I have been nursing the problem since 8k and have documentation. I really believe that the pad compound is the problem; I think the pad is made to be quiet with long service life and little dusting. I think that the actual braking performance was engineered to be merely adequate for test drives and little old ladies.

Thanks

 

Have you seen this?

http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/...otors_myth.htm

Any thoughts on it?

Thanks

 

I read through it fast so don't get too mad, Is the author saying the friction material is what causes uneveness on the rotor face? It's possible... Does it matter if the rotor face warps from heat or friction material transfer? No... It needs to be fixed anyways.