vibration in reverse???
07-21-2003, 06:33 AM
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vibration in reverse???
About two weeks ago, my 91 accord started shaking slightly when I put it in reverse. Now, it has started to check whenever it is park as well. It's pretty much shaking whenever it is not moving. When it's in reversed and I'm stepping on the gas, it' s fine. Does anybody know what this can be. Is it an idling problem? Is this a common problem? Thanks.
07-21-2003, 08:42 AM
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I had this problem the other day in my 92 accord. It was fine in idle, but once I put it in reverse it shook pretty bad. I then stopped and put it into park and let it idle for a few seconds, then put it back in reverse and it was fine. It hasn't done it since. 
07-21-2003, 09:01 AM
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When i was car shopping i ran accross an auto that did that, cant remember what year exactly, but same gen as both yours, shook when in park and reverse, was fine otherwise, shook so bad the steering wheel was shakin all over the place, that wasnt the reason i didnt buy it though, just sayin that i have seen it, dont know what the deal is though...
07-21-2003, 09:37 AM
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is it shaking and rocking so hard that the engine kills? my extremely old 90 Nissan Stanza did that. it would shake like hell in reverse and the engine would die. i found out the tranny was dead.
07-21-2003, 01:24 PM
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You are in luck, because I have become an expert in the vibrating Accord phenominon. My 93' shook so bad, it was like getting a massage at every red light. The problem lies in the rear motor mount. It is, for some reason, vacuum controlled. The motor mount is fed vaccuum by a small solinoid mounted in the center of the firewall. When the car reaches idle, it electronically engages, passing vacuum to the mount. When the mount receives vacuum, it dampens the vibration. You have 3 possibilities.
1) The solinoid is bad. At idle, check the hose going down to the mount and confirm you have vacuum. Be careful not to break off the solinoid nipple cause you will have to replace the unit at a cost of $65. It might even be better to cut the hose and use a hose connector to re-attach.
2) The motor mount has gone bad. Replacement is a major nightmare and will take 3-4 hours. The new mount is $160 from Autozone.
3) The vacuum module mounted to the motor mount has a linkage arm that activates the mount. The arm will sometimes slip off the motor mount causing it to quit working. This is also a major nightmare, because most of the motor mount and the vacuum linkage arm are not accessible without, at least, removing the bolts from the mount so you can tip it over to gain access to the linkage. This was the problem with my car and, despite 3-4 hours work, turned out well because I did not need the $160 replacement.
If your Accord is vibrating at idle (worse when in gear (auto) or when the A/C is running, I guarantee this is your problem.
1) The solinoid is bad. At idle, check the hose going down to the mount and confirm you have vacuum. Be careful not to break off the solinoid nipple cause you will have to replace the unit at a cost of $65. It might even be better to cut the hose and use a hose connector to re-attach.
2) The motor mount has gone bad. Replacement is a major nightmare and will take 3-4 hours. The new mount is $160 from Autozone.
3) The vacuum module mounted to the motor mount has a linkage arm that activates the mount. The arm will sometimes slip off the motor mount causing it to quit working. This is also a major nightmare, because most of the motor mount and the vacuum linkage arm are not accessible without, at least, removing the bolts from the mount so you can tip it over to gain access to the linkage. This was the problem with my car and, despite 3-4 hours work, turned out well because I did not need the $160 replacement.
If your Accord is vibrating at idle (worse when in gear (auto) or when the A/C is running, I guarantee this is your problem.
01-12-2019, 07:46 PM
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vibration while in gear and stopped
You are in luck, because I have become an expert in the vibrating Accord phenominon. My 93' shook so bad, it was like getting a massage at every red light. The problem lies in the rear motor mount. It is, for some reason, vacuum controlled. The motor mount is fed vaccuum by a small solinoid mounted in the center of the firewall. When the car reaches idle, it electronically engages, passing vacuum to the mount. When the mount receives vacuum, it dampens the vibration. You have 3 possibilities.
1) The solinoid is bad. At idle, check the hose going down to the mount and confirm you have vacuum. Be careful not to break off the solinoid nipple cause you will have to replace the unit at a cost of $65. It might even be better to cut the hose and use a hose connector to re-attach.
2) The motor mount has gone bad. Replacement is a major nightmare and will take 3-4 hours. The new mount is $160 from Autozone.
3) The vacuum module mounted to the motor mount has a linkage arm that activates the mount. The arm will sometimes slip off the motor mount causing it to quit working. This is also a major nightmare, because most of the motor mount and the vacuum linkage arm are not accessible without, at least, removing the bolts from the mount so you can tip it over to gain access to the linkage. This was the problem with my car and, despite 3-4 hours work, turned out well because I did not need the $160 replacement.
If your Accord is vibrating at idle (worse when in gear (auto) or when the A/C is running, I guarantee this is your problem.
1) The solinoid is bad. At idle, check the hose going down to the mount and confirm you have vacuum. Be careful not to break off the solinoid nipple cause you will have to replace the unit at a cost of $65. It might even be better to cut the hose and use a hose connector to re-attach.
2) The motor mount has gone bad. Replacement is a major nightmare and will take 3-4 hours. The new mount is $160 from Autozone.
3) The vacuum module mounted to the motor mount has a linkage arm that activates the mount. The arm will sometimes slip off the motor mount causing it to quit working. This is also a major nightmare, because most of the motor mount and the vacuum linkage arm are not accessible without, at least, removing the bolts from the mount so you can tip it over to gain access to the linkage. This was the problem with my car and, despite 3-4 hours work, turned out well because I did not need the $160 replacement.
If your Accord is vibrating at idle (worse when in gear (auto) or when the A/C is running, I guarantee this is your problem.
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