I don't have pics to show, but I looked at my front rotors when I was cleaning my wheels and it looked like the out rim of the rotor was flaking or rusting.(that could explain the wobble I get at high speed braking) Does that mean I have to get some new rotors soon?(It's an EX so I'd have to get 4 rotors) I've been looking at some sites for pricing and ideas. If I have to get them replaced I was thinking about getting stainless steel brake lines, some new pads(any idea which to go with), and some rotors. I saw on nopi that the Brembo blanks are about 40. Should I spend a little extra and go with a slotted rotor, or drilled rotor?

 

If your steering wheel or brake pedal is pulsating when you press the brakes at high speed you need to just get them turned aka surfaced. It only costs about $40 to $50.

 

CORRECTION: If your wheel vibrates, wobbles, or your pedal pulsates and you haven't engaged ABS, you have warped rotors and they must be replaced. Resurfacing, or turning the rotors only trues the surface to make it perfectly smooth and remove the rust and/or dirt and deposits. And turning them can only be done if they are within the runout specs. If the rotors have been worn down beyond the factory runout spec, they must be replaced as well. But if they are warped, they cannot be turned (it'll mess up the lathe cutter for one thing, and make the rotor uneven). As for replacements, one question: do you race your car on the track at over 120 mph every weekend? If you answered no, just get factory stock replacement rotor, and either Honda or Wagner replacement pads. All that Brembo stuff is way overkill for an everyday driver. Also, slotted and/or dimpled or drilled rotors are a once and done deal. Meaning when they just rust, they cannot be turned. You must buy new ones.

 

Hmmm, I did not know that, I guess that answers that question. I think I'll just get the brembo blanks off Nopi for a little less than 40 a pop. They are just regular rotors, nothing special. Is it worth it to go for the stainless steel brake lines? or is it ok to stick with the existing brake lines?

 

"warped rotors" is such an overused term.

It can be many reasons why your steering wheel shakes. Unevenly torqued or undertorqued/loose lug nuts can cause it. And i think its too much runout/unevenly worn rotors can cause it, thus resurfacing can fix it... if in doubt, double check the price on new rotors and see if its worth your while to just pickup new ones instead of resurfacing them. but I think resurfacing would be cheaper.

 

pick up some new rotors. I had mine resurfaced and wobble just a little, a week later I had to break hard on the highway, now my car wobbles when i break at any speed. Get the brembo blanks and some stainless steel lines.

 

well if it's shaking during high speed braking that sounds like rotors.

 

My car has about 85000 miles on it now, and I'm pretty sure they are the orignal rotors.(got it used) I priced out new brembo blanks, stainless steel brake lines, and pads. It should cost me about 400-500. I'm going to see if a buddy can help me install everything. I've seen a couple other post on replacing brakes, and it doesn't seem that diffucult.

 

definetly get the brembo blanks, i got them along with AEM pads for the front. i got them from nopi too. i think you can get away with only doing the front rotors/pads and just replace the rear pads. i still have my stock rear rotors, pads were replaced at 70K. i now have 113K. SS steel lines will get rid of the mushiness when braking and help when the brakes are hot from pushing the car hard at the track. i don't think it's really worth it for a street car. i would suggest flushing the brake fluid and use ATE super blue. i'm running that. you can also flush your clutch fluid too and use the ATE stuff.

 

so would you use one bottle of ATE for the clutch fluid and brake fluid or do you need a bottle for both? Did you notice a difference in pressure with the ATE??