Do I need to replace my brake rotors?
Originally posted by vtecaccord01
so would you use one bottle of ATE for the clutch fluid and brake fluid or do you need a bottle for both? Did you notice a difference in pressure with the ATE??
so would you use one bottle of ATE for the clutch fluid and brake fluid or do you need a bottle for both? Did you notice a difference in pressure with the ATE??
as for feel i had the original 7 yr old fluid so it was in need of changing. basically it's supposed to help when the brakes are really warm like in racing or traffic when you pick up speed, slow down, kinda crap i see alot. the brakes get mushy from the fluid overheating. it seems better, but it could be the pads too. altough the pads were in good shape, it was warped rotors that made me change them.
Originally posted by vtecaccord01
actually it is in a liter can
actually it is in a liter can
Originally posted by /^Blackmagik^\
or better yet.... why don't you get the problem diagnosed by someone who knows what they're doing and isn't 500-1000 miles away first before you go out and buy new rotors.
or better yet.... why don't you get the problem diagnosed by someone who knows what they're doing and isn't 500-1000 miles away first before you go out and buy new rotors.
A little chin music
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 2,655
Likes: 0
From: Cleveland, Ohio - Rock 'n Roll capitol of the World
HOLD IT EVERYONE!!!!!!! You are all getting ahead of yourselves!! Lets take it down a little. First off, if the pedal or steering wheel shake when braking, at least one front rotor is warped. If it was a loose lug or the rim threw a weight or anything else, the vibrations would occur at other times as well. Secondly, stainless steel lines are an overkill. If you want to get them, go ahead. It's not my money. But if you have the fluid changed properly and bled correctly, you don't need new lines. It's up to you, though. Think about this...... the Honda stock brakes lasted 85000. That is really great life for brakes. I got 81000 out of my factory brakes as well (just changed them last week). It is obvious that Honda brakes are fantastic for every day moderate to slightly heavy driving (believe me, if you aren't doing 80 all the time, it's not very heavy.) You may just consider staying with Honda stock parts. You know what you'll get, and they'll be alot cheaper. There's no guarantee that Brembos will last 85000 miles. They may not even last 40000. The stock Porsche brakes on my step-brother's 911 turbo lasted 35000. And they are top notch Brembos.
My 5thgen badly needs new rotors, too. Just like you said, there's a distinctive wobble in the steering wheel when braking above 50-60kms/hr.
I have another question, however - the brake pedal action seems to be much greater than it was say a year ago. I have to put a significant amount of pressure on the pedal in order to get brake response. How do I/my mechanic remedy this?
I have another question, however - the brake pedal action seems to be much greater than it was say a year ago. I have to put a significant amount of pressure on the pedal in order to get brake response. How do I/my mechanic remedy this?
A little chin music
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 2,655
Likes: 0
From: Cleveland, Ohio - Rock 'n Roll capitol of the World
Originally posted by drummingaccord
I have another question, however - the brake pedal action seems to be much greater than it was say a year ago. I have to put a significant amount of pressure on the pedal in order to get brake response. How do I/my mechanic remedy this?
I have another question, however - the brake pedal action seems to be much greater than it was say a year ago. I have to put a significant amount of pressure on the pedal in order to get brake response. How do I/my mechanic remedy this?


