For one, im just stating my point of view. If i think something is bs, im going to say it. Second, ill post the way i want, im a senior member, and have been here for years. The reason im so quick to call bs is because a lot of people, id say in the range of 75% and up post 'opinions' of topics that i need information about rather then fact. Especially when it comes to the topic of F/I, a lot of people post what they've heard from other people, and its almost always wrong, and wrong information equals bad builds and blown engines. Im not here to get everyone pissed off or anything like that. Im just not going to go along with something if i dont believe it to be true. I never claimed to be a'6th gen god', but i will claim that the information i do get about my car will be from someone that: A. Has went to college and actually knows about engines, cars, and performance parts in general. Or B. Someone that actually builds race cars, engines, suspensions, and anything else to do with upgrading components on cars that actually increase performace. The person thats building my car is both A and B, knows racers and car builds like Bisi. Those are the peoples opinions i listen to, and others should before bs on the internet.

 

Most of my turbo information comes from two scources. I gathered information myself from the net from people who have turboed their cars and from mechanical engineering students that i am friends with in school.

I researched a H turbo build, a B turbo build, and among others witnessed and had input on an STi that is now pushing near 400whp.

Even among the experts there is difference of opinion. It doesnt mean that there is BS flying around, it just means that old habits die hard and people tend to think what they think. Granted your guy has probbaly had more experience there to set him right-- there are some things that even the experts don't know.

I know many people who have turboed their cars and gotten no increase in gas mileage. the only increase i have heard about are when you upgrade from one turbo to a more effecient unit. When my friend upgraded to his SR55 his gas mileage got better on his DD map. This was because the SR55 got to boost more effciently and with less wasted energy than his stock turbo. He basically lessened the exhaust restriction and increased how the air went through the engine.

Your car will get worse gas mileage because you are putting an exhuast restriction on. I understand that you are going to cap the boost with the TB and keep it low, but you are still making boost, and that is still causing you to waste energy. i'd like you to calculate your MPG for us after about 2 or 3 tanks, and then do it again driving in the same manner-- you said you get 450 to a tank right now, well lets see how you do after the turbo. And stop teh talk about getting bigger explosions-- to get a bigger explosion you need more air AND fuel. they go hand in hand, you can't have one without the other or you will have too much of one and your AFR will be off.

As for your personality on HAN. It's disrespectful, this is a place for learning, if someone says somthing thats not right you can correct them, but you don't have to do it matter-of-factly. Many of the members on here know what they are talking about and it's a place for casual conversation. If you shoot down everyone for shooting BS in real life, what happens?, you get booted from the group for being annoying. The same things happen on this board. I want you around because you are going to be learning stuff in your build that we need to know around here, but for all our sakes please just chill. It does no one good arguing, though some of us enjoy it. and we are all actual people on the other end of the conversation.

 

I had two very good conversations today. I got a call from ATP turbo today. Asked me which turbo inlet i wanted, the 2.75" or the 4". I asked him if it would really matter in my goal of 400-430whp and he told me that since i already have 2.5" piping i might as well just keep it because i would only be losing minimal top end hp. So i got that, and he told me that the turbo will be made and sent out today. My fiance got it with 2day shipping so it should be here before the end of the week! So ill take pictures when that arrives here.

And another great call i had today on my engine build. My block is on the assembly rack at golden eagle, and my tech. told me it would be back at his shop mid next week! After it gets back, hes putting in a crankshaft from an h2x and all the other parts (acl bearings, cp pistons, eagle rods, valvetrain/retainers) and ill be very close to having a turboed car! all i have to do is break it in when he gets it back (im going to have it tuned before i drive it to make sure i have a correct a/f ratio and i dont ruin a $4g bottom. Then im going to put 6 or 700 miles on it and the turbo gets installed! We're looking at a late september early october install date. Actually now that i think about it, my fiance is going to buy a 3" exhaust system, so i might get that installed first. And ill get burns muffler, with a custom 3" pipe setup. Then ill get my turbo installed afterwards.

Anyways, im helluv excited, and ill post pictures of everything as they come!

 

you were probably better off with 3" or larger piping, 2.5 will limit your power alot in the long run.

 

thank you for your opinion sherwood, but i beleive it is false. I dont believe it will hurt me that much because my goal is 400-430whp, if i were shooting for 500-600whp i think i would have a bottleneck with 2.5" inlet piping. He (ATP turbo) and my tech told me that my size piping/inlet will still get me to my goal and it will spool faster then 4" piping/inlet.

Oh forgot to mention, my tech. told me with my engine setup i will be able to rev up to 7500rpms and make power all the way to redline. Man, i shouldve got the 1.06 housing naw, jk, i dont think im ever going to have to rev that high anyways. I dont want to start breaking shit on my $7500 engine.

 

Sorry bubb, but I agree. 3" piping is allmost mandatory in most FI applications.

Page 2 ownage!

 

You dont have anything to be sorry about, i dont mind if you agree with someone that is wrong, you both are wrong. If you knew what you were talking about that would be one thing, but since there isnt even a 3" inlet option its kinda obvious you dont. And like i said, im not going for a 600whp accord with a spool up that would be in the 5500-6000rpm range, im going for a 400whp car that has very quick response and spoolup in the 2800-3400rpm range. Bigger piping, in this case 4" piping is the next step up, would kill my spoolup probably by 100's or even a 1000 rpms. This is the reason most people that have good setups just wait until they're done with there project before they post stuff on the internet. Because people think that have never built an engine tell them that they know whats best for their own projects. Oh, and the reason the people that listen to other people on the internet have crappy setups. ex for sherwood: retroshark on everything-honda, which i said over a month ago would have a broken car now look at his car.

Edit: Forgot to mention, a 3" dp is different tho. It wont effect spool up time, but will increase top end hp. I actually will have that, and a 3" exhaust setup. This is reduce a chance of backpresure surge and will help the exhaust exit easier. Or i might go with a 2.5" exhaust with a cut-out and keep my car looking stock. Either way, it will greatly increase exhaust flow.

 

Do what you want, experienced people are just trying to give you advice.

 

Thats the thing, you arent experienced. Show me a 400whp car youve build and then come back and tell me youre experienced.

 

you haven't built anything, a shop did it for you.