1990 accord engine light/idle/speedometer probs
09-27-2005, 12:27 PM
#21
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Hehehe...shutup! 
I mean, I consider myself pretty mechanically inclined, and I have worked on all my previous cars (Saturn SL2, Subaru 2.5 RS) without a hitch, plus done a bit of work on this "new" Accord...but I just dont see how those bolts are accessible. Actually, I can't even see the bolts at all, to tell you the truth.
*sigh* I guess I'll try harder
h:
I mean, I consider myself pretty mechanically inclined, and I have worked on all my previous cars (Saturn SL2, Subaru 2.5 RS) without a hitch, plus done a bit of work on this "new" Accord...but I just dont see how those bolts are accessible. Actually, I can't even see the bolts at all, to tell you the truth.
*sigh* I guess I'll try harder
h:
09-27-2005, 12:33 PM
#22
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Originally Posted by Jonny Thrice
Hehehe...shutup!
I mean, I consider myself pretty mechanically inclined, and I have worked on all my previous cars (Saturn SL2, Subaru 2.5 RS) without a hitch, plus done a bit of work on this "new" Accord...but I just dont see how those bolts are accessible. Actually, I can't even see the bolts at all, to tell you the truth.
*sigh* I guess I'll try harderh:
I mean, I consider myself pretty mechanically inclined, and I have worked on all my previous cars (Saturn SL2, Subaru 2.5 RS) without a hitch, plus done a bit of work on this "new" Accord...but I just dont see how those bolts are accessible. Actually, I can't even see the bolts at all, to tell you the truth.
*sigh* I guess I'll try harder
h:Edit: If you worked on a Subie then Hondas shouldn't be a problem at all
09-27-2005, 12:37 PM
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:screwy: lol...I'm probably just blind then. I'll have to check again when she comes home.
Would you be able to access any more drawings or diagrams at all? Or are those the only ones you can get (which seem pretty detailed!)..
Thanks man.
Would you be able to access any more drawings or diagrams at all? Or are those the only ones you can get (which seem pretty detailed!)..
Thanks man.
09-27-2005, 12:49 PM
#24
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Originally Posted by Jonny Thrice
:screwy: lol...I'm probably just blind then. I'll have to check again when she comes home.
Would you be able to access any more drawings or diagrams at all? Or are those the only ones you can get (which seem pretty detailed!)..
Thanks man.
Would you be able to access any more drawings or diagrams at all? Or are those the only ones you can get (which seem pretty detailed!)..
Thanks man.
09-28-2005, 09:54 AM
#26
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this link may help with finding how to get to the VSS and what tool(s) to use.
http://www.cybertrails.com/~bestinth...tLocation.html
Actually, let me/us know if this helps. i actually did find several new VSS on ebay for $20-$25!!! so i plan to purchase one soon and install it myself, with the help of a friend who claims to have the proper tools. we'll see
http://www.cybertrails.com/~bestinth...tLocation.html
Actually, let me/us know if this helps. i actually did find several new VSS on ebay for $20-$25!!! so i plan to purchase one soon and install it myself, with the help of a friend who claims to have the proper tools. we'll see
10-01-2005, 06:01 PM
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Originally Posted by meredithf
I have a 1990 Honda Accord LX, manual transmission, 4-cylinder, fuel injection, power everything (steering, locks, windows)...
About halfway to work today I noticed my speedometer dropped to zero as I was still driving. Nothing else seemed wrong so I wasn’t too alarmed thinking it may just be some type of sensor or something and I would eventually have it looked at. I kept an eye on it for a few minutes and noticed that my check engine light came on. I was very alarmed at this because I know it’s obviously not a good thing and also because it’s NEVER come on in my car while driving. I kept going because I was only about 3 miles from work. During the rest of the drive I noticed when the car was stopped or in neutral it was idling terribly low, to the point I assumed it was going to stall if I didn’t keep giving it gas. So I managed the clutch, brake, and gas the rest of the way to work and it seemed fine.
I decided to take it to the shop across the street to have them check the codes to find out what was wrong. When I started it to drive it across the street the check engine light was off and the speedometer was working! Weird I thought. Turned out the shop doesn’t have the right machine/scanner/whatever to check the codes for a 1990 Accord, that’s assuming any codes would even still be there since the light wasn’t on anymore. So there wasn’t much they could do without knowing the problem (and frankly I’d rather not have them guess either). They suggested I change the ignition wires since I had not done that 3 months ago when they did my tune-up because they actually said the wires were fine at the time.
The guy just called me at work to say they did an oil change and replaced the wires and the car was running and idling fine. He drove it around and after about 5 min, the check engine light came on, the speedometer dropped to zero, and the car started idling really low again.
Without knowing the code(s), do any of you know what this could be??? In the back of my mind I was thinking alternator or computer. The alternator is only about 3 years old and all other electrical systems seem fine right now so I guess that’s not it. What about a rusted/corroded wire(s) somewhere? Would something like that cause these 3 problems??
thanks in advance for any help!!!
About halfway to work today I noticed my speedometer dropped to zero as I was still driving. Nothing else seemed wrong so I wasn’t too alarmed thinking it may just be some type of sensor or something and I would eventually have it looked at. I kept an eye on it for a few minutes and noticed that my check engine light came on. I was very alarmed at this because I know it’s obviously not a good thing and also because it’s NEVER come on in my car while driving. I kept going because I was only about 3 miles from work. During the rest of the drive I noticed when the car was stopped or in neutral it was idling terribly low, to the point I assumed it was going to stall if I didn’t keep giving it gas. So I managed the clutch, brake, and gas the rest of the way to work and it seemed fine.
I decided to take it to the shop across the street to have them check the codes to find out what was wrong. When I started it to drive it across the street the check engine light was off and the speedometer was working! Weird I thought. Turned out the shop doesn’t have the right machine/scanner/whatever to check the codes for a 1990 Accord, that’s assuming any codes would even still be there since the light wasn’t on anymore. So there wasn’t much they could do without knowing the problem (and frankly I’d rather not have them guess either). They suggested I change the ignition wires since I had not done that 3 months ago when they did my tune-up because they actually said the wires were fine at the time.
The guy just called me at work to say they did an oil change and replaced the wires and the car was running and idling fine. He drove it around and after about 5 min, the check engine light came on, the speedometer dropped to zero, and the car started idling really low again.
Without knowing the code(s), do any of you know what this could be??? In the back of my mind I was thinking alternator or computer. The alternator is only about 3 years old and all other electrical systems seem fine right now so I guess that’s not it. What about a rusted/corroded wire(s) somewhere? Would something like that cause these 3 problems??
thanks in advance for any help!!!
10-02-2005, 08:54 AM
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Well I went to change the VSS today...and found another problem!
The VSS was actually not hard to replace... I took the advice of that link above and got a long, 10" extension with a "wobble" head and just shoved it in there and it reached the bolts fine! Surprisingly, they were not tight at all, as you would expect on a 15 year old car...
So I removed the old VSS, and when I went to put in the new one, I noticed that the little drive pin (the peice that goes between the tranny and the VSS, that actually spins the VSS) had nowhere to sit in the hole in the tranny.
See, the little drive pin has two ears on either end, which are supposed to sit into a keyed part on the transmission. Well, that keyed part on the transmission is BROKEN!
I used a long telescoping magnet and found two broken peices in there. Seems like the previous owner knew about it when he tried to fix it, and just put the VSS back on there, hence the loose bolts.
But the good news is that I plugged the new VSS into the car, and the check engine light and "S" light no longer flash, so the car needed a new VSS any way.
But now I gotta change the entire power steering speed sensor assembly (or whatever that part is called), and I have no idea how much that'll cost
The VSS was actually not hard to replace... I took the advice of that link above and got a long, 10" extension with a "wobble" head and just shoved it in there and it reached the bolts fine! Surprisingly, they were not tight at all, as you would expect on a 15 year old car...
So I removed the old VSS, and when I went to put in the new one, I noticed that the little drive pin (the peice that goes between the tranny and the VSS, that actually spins the VSS) had nowhere to sit in the hole in the tranny.
See, the little drive pin has two ears on either end, which are supposed to sit into a keyed part on the transmission. Well, that keyed part on the transmission is BROKEN!
I used a long telescoping magnet and found two broken peices in there. Seems like the previous owner knew about it when he tried to fix it, and just put the VSS back on there, hence the loose bolts.
But the good news is that I plugged the new VSS into the car, and the check engine light and "S" light no longer flash, so the car needed a new VSS any way.
But now I gotta change the entire power steering speed sensor assembly (or whatever that part is called), and I have no idea how much that'll cost
10-03-2005, 06:16 AM
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I dunno...I dont think so. I guess the part has been broken for some time, and the previous owner tried to fix it, but found out that it needed alot more work than just a new VSS, so he put the VSS back on, and told us all it needed was a new VSS 
So now I guess I need a new shaft from that part in the pic above...or maybe a whole new assembly from a junkyard or something. At least we got a working VSS now and no check engine/S light problems.
So now I guess I need a new shaft from that part in the pic above...or maybe a whole new assembly from a junkyard or something. At least we got a working VSS now and no check engine/S light problems.