Well, I reset the DTC memory as instructed and the SRS light is no longer lit. The end of the instructions say if the light stays on for 6 seconds or so, that it was a intermittent failure, system ok. My question is, is there any reason the light came on in the first place. The car has not been hit or no work has been done to the car. My system did exactly as described; light stayed on 6 seconds and went off. I drove to work tonight and still no sign of the SRS light. Should I be expecting this light to come back on in the very near future? Was this a system glitch that just came out of nowhere? Don't know what to expect at this point. I Do want to thank you for all your help 98CoupeV6.

 

My light came on maybe 2 years ago and I took it to the dealer (this was before I bought my Helms and knew all about Accords) and they shut it off without charge (of course they raped me on an ABS wheel sensor, but that's another story) and told me that there was no problem with it and something must have set it off. The tech told me that it's pretty common for it to go on for no reason because the system is so sensitive (if anything screws up they could be looking at major lawsuits or recalls)...so maybe a very slight power surge or something would trip the light and disable the system for safety.

My light hasn't come back on so hopefully yours won't either. If it does and you pull the exact same codes then something could be up with the driver's side airbag or SRS harness or whatever. But you followed the Honda troubleshooting method and found a solution. Here's a neat intermittent failures section I found:

Troubleshooting Intermittent Failures

If there was a malfunction, but it doesn't recur, it will be stored in the memory as an intermittent failure, and the SRS indicator light comes on.

After checking the DTC, troubleshoot as follows:


1) Read the DTC.
2) Erase the DTC memory.
3) With the shift lever in neutral, turn the ignition switch ON (II), and let the engine idle.
4) The SRS indicator light comes on for about 6 seconds and then goes off.
5) Shake the wire harness and the connector, take a test drive (quick acceleration, quick braking, cornering), and turn the steering wheel fully left and right, and hold it there for 5 to 10 seconds to find the cause of the intermittent failure. If the problem recurs, the SRS indicator light will stay on.
If you can't duplicate the intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time.


And no problem for the help, sorry I kept redirecting you, I just want to keep everything in this one thread so I won't have to post it again HAN saves another victim $85!!

 

Well Andrew, I think the only way that P0420 would come on and an O2 sensor would be the cause would be if there was another trouble code such as P137 or P141 indicating an O2 sensor problem, which would trick the computer into thinking that the catalytic converter wasn't doing its job and thus setting off P0420. My PO420 has been on for the past few months and I'm 95% sure it's the cat. I really need to replace that.

DTC P0420: Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold

1) Reset the ECM/PCM.
2) Start the engine. Hold the engine at 3,000 rpm with no load (in Park or neutral) until the radiator fan comes on.
3) Except F23A4 SULEV engine: Test-drive at 40 - 55 mph (64 - 88 km/h) for approx. 2 minutes . Then decelerate for at least 3 seconds with the throttle completely closed. Then reduce the vehicle speed to 35 mph (56 km/h ), and try to hold it until the scan tool indicates FAIL or PASS as the TWC test result. F23A4 SULEV engine: Test-drive at 50 - 55 mph (80 - 88 km/h) for approx. 2 minutes . Then decelerate for at least 4 seconds with the throttle completely closed. Then accelerate to 55 mph (88 km/h ), and try to hold it until the scan tool indicates FAIL or PASS as the TWC test result. Is the test result FAIL? YES - Check the three way catalytic converter (TWC). If necessary, replace the TWC. NO - Intermittent failure, system is OK at this time.

So if P0420 comes on and it's the only code, either replace the TWC or have your Honda dealer (or someone else) test the TWC to see if it's bad or not. If there are multiple DTCs, troubleshoot those first. I only have P0420.

 

Yes, another victim saved by HAN. 98CouPe I do have another question that is kinda off topic but, I see in your signature that you use a V1 1.8 and you call it useless. Why so? I personally use a Bel RX65 and I love it. According to the radar detector forum that I am a member of, says the V1 is definitely one of the best in the world. Constant comparisons between the V1, Bel RX65 and the Escort 8500 X50. Everyone seems to be very pleased with the performance with all these detectors. Why not you? Another very big thanks.

 

No problem, any time. Glad it's all fixed.

My V1 is the best detector money can buy in my opinion and it has saved me from radar and laser tickets at least 5 times. I've been speeding twice with a person behind me, gotten hit with laser, quickly ducked into the right hand lane and seen the person behind me get the ticket. But with the rampant use of instant on Ka and laser (both virtually undetectable unless there's heavy traffic) I rarely go faster than the fast lane traffic unless I need to. Thus it's relatively useless, but still serves its purpose as entertainment and a good backup tool in case I do feel the urge to push my car or am late for something. The performance is not the issue, it's the tact of the police (which has vastly improved in NYS in the past year or so) and my insurance company that keep my speeds down to "reasonable" levels

 

A little help with a code 70(?)

I'm getting:
CEL = 7 long flashes (then pause, repeat)
D4 = four flashes (then pause, repeat)

Now, if I'm reading this information right, this is simply a code 70 which means "automatic transaxle." Firstly, is this correct? Secondly, what does that mean to me in terms of repair?
A little background... sometime around March, at approx 86,500 miles, I had the transmission repaired under Honda's recall, then I stored the car. Now that I'm driving it again (currently at approx 87,500) the CEL came on.

The service ticket from the repair states, "Trans seems to slip on acccel. Install Honda remanufactured automatic transmission and torque convertor."

I called Honda and the only they could tell me was "bring it in." As my week is insane and I won't be able to get there right away, is there someone who can give me some insight as to what this all means? Also, it seems to run fine, so can I still drive it without damaging anything?

By the way, when it comes to cars... I am at the very bottom of the learning curve working my way up. So, if you speak in layman's terms, I would apprecieate it.

Thanks in advance.

Car Info:
01 Accord LX
Sedan
4 cyl

 

Okay, so what's the D4 flash code?

 

thanks for your quick reply.

My D4 flashes four times, then pauses then repeats. I didn't see any breakdown of D4 codes in your charts above. I only saw a footnote at your explanation of 70 in your initial post that said " ** The D4 indicator light and Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) may come on simultaneously."

By the way, I edited my previous post for clarification and to include more info.

 

...there's a big chart under the bold wording 'transmission codes'.

There is s no code 4 for the D4 light. You're doing something wrong, maybe autozone can read D4 codes but I dobut it. They'll probably only get the CEL.

 

My apologies, yes I did see the transmission codes chart. The CEL codes are easy enough to decipher, but because I didn't see a (4) in the DTC column of the "transmission codes" chart, so I thought that maybe that chart and the P#### codes were for someone who might have hooked it up to a computer at Autozone as you mentioned within this thread.

Now, if I pulled the codes by inserting the paperclip exactly as you illustrate in the picture above and followed the instructions (simple and straightforward enough), and got the 7 long - pause - 7 long - pause, from the CEL, concievably it would be safe to say that the procedure for retrieving the codes was followed correctly. I did this twice and even sat there watching the flashes for a long time to make sure that there was no variation, and there wasn't.

Simultaneously:
CEL flashes 7 long times, pauses then repeats.
D4 flashes 4 long times, pauses then repeats.

If successfully followed, your illustration and instructions should give accurate CEL and D4 codes, correct? (Meaning, being that four D4 flashes means nothing with your configuration, I wouldn't have to reconfigure the paperclip to get a different -accurate- D4 reading, would I?).

If this is correct, then I guess my only option is to take it in, in which case my final question would be if everything seems to be running smoothly, what is the risk of damaging something if I drive it for the next 2-3 days.

Again, thanks for your help! I really appreciate it.